Recently, while reading an unofficial report on the proceedings of the trial of Gu Kailai, I noticed something that has long fascinated me about modern China. Those following the news may have seen that Gu, the wife of fallen Communist chief Bo Xilai, has just received a suspended death sentence for poisoning a British businessman. Yet it was not legal improprieties that caught my attention, these seemed about par for the course of a Chinese criminal trial. Instead, it was another facet of contemporary Chinese culture that attracted my attention, the ubiquity of the polo shirt. The report included pictures of Zhang Xiaojun, Gu's alleged co-conspirator, and prominent Beijing attorney Shen Zhigeng (who despite allegedly being Gu's first choice to represent her was only allowed to attend as an observer), both sporting polo shirts. Compare this to any American courtroom and the difference is stark (even Michael Jackson wore "suits" to his trials).
The Polo Shirt (originally called a tennis shirt), has come to dominate China nearly as completely as the Mao-suit (generally called a Sun Yat-Sen suit in Chinese) did. True, the highest echelons of China's leaders don suits and ties for photo ops. But, the polo shirt, along with its illegitimate cousin, the short sleeve dress shirt, dominates among all other strata of white collar workers. They are in evidence even in colder months, when they may be covered by a suit jacket and long sleeve versions also feature prominently. Unfortunately, the polo shirts favored in China often lack the monochromatic simplicity of more traditional western equivalents (see pictures). Many contain dizzy arrays of colors and/or over-sized logos.
Yet, much of China is sweltering in August and the wearing of climatically appropriate clothes should certainly be encouraged. By contrast, the Japanese government has an ongoing campaign to persuade Japanese men to shed their dark wool suits during the summer months.
The polo shirt has become so central to officials' wardrobes that it may even act as a de facto currency. A couple years ago, this blogger heard a story from a foreigner trying to start a small business in Beijing. In order to smooth over his relationship with local authorities, his connection helped him provide a "gift" to the local police. Specifically, he was advised to offer two extra-large (sizes run small in China and beer- guts are standard issue for mid-level officials) polo shirts from any one of five prestigious brands and not to cost less than 1,000 RMB (at that time approximately $127). Already amused, the foreign entrepreneur was staggered when he was politely informed that an upscale shop did not stock any polo shirts under 2,000 RMB.
The adoption of the polo shirt could be interpreted as a rejection of Communist Mao suits in favor of an article of clothing that is consummately capitalist in its showcasing of logos. Without a doubt, it is an example of a Chinese twist on conspicuous consumption. Instead of expensive tailored suits, designer ties and glittering cuff links, nouveau riche Chinese seem content to purchase ever pricier polo shirts. Partially, this may be because it is easier for novice capitalists to recognize logos on polo shirt than subtler hints of opulence, such as fine Italian wool and expert tailoring. Yet, even if Gu's co-defendant had opted for the finest three-piece Mohair blend that Savile Row had to offer, the guilty verdict was probably a forgone conclusion.
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I'm quite enjoying the blog John, its as entertaining and interesting as your classes! hehe
( given very hot summers in most of China).
The new fashion now comes more from casual California, than Savile Row or New York.
I agree that Chinese look more to California, rather than London of New York, for business style. For example, they tend to prefer Silicon Valley corporate lawyers.
I also agree that common sense fashion that takes account of weather should be applauded. But, considering that hot and muggy Hong Kong is full of black suits, I think this has more to do with culture than weather.
Only if one considers fashion sense a cultural value. Which it is :-)
I am reminded of a story Alan Watts once told about a meeting with students at Shri Lanka University. It was a hot day ,Watts wore a native sari-like garment and most of his listeners wore Western suites and ties.
Then I assume that he would also be wearing like this in business meetings, salons, weddings and in court, won't be a big deal as long as not dressing like that in funerals. I guess they simply don't need custom suits and shining shoes to show off their social status.
I think what is so interesting is that despite the fact that newly wealthy Chinese seem very keen on finding ways of showing off their wealth (watches, cars, swanky restaurants, expensive cigarettes, tea and booze), they have not embraced global business (Western) norms of spending their money on expensive tailoring.