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Kalle Bergman

Kalle Bergman

Posted: November 11, 2010 10:24 AM

When Copenhagen restaurant Noma was named The Best Restaurant In The World earlier this year, it created quite a stir. A Danish restaurant, the best in the world? Serving Scandinavian food? Contemporary Scandinavian food - of course - but anyway. Not French or Italian. Not Spanish or Japanese.
Scandinavian.

The Noma appointment was probably slightly chocking to outsiders, but the local foodies had actually seen it coming for some time. The New Nordic cuisine (a manifesto created by Noma Chef René Redzepi and a handful of other Nordic Über-Chefs) had been established a couple of years before Noma reached the top of the world, and a new generation of Scandinavian Chefs stopped looking towards France, Spain and Italy for inspiration a long time ago. Instead, they had been busy digging in their own backyards for both exciting indigenous produce and a local culinary heritage. A heritage that turned out to be prouder, more delicious and more in tune with international food trends than even the most hardcore pro-Scandinavian-gastronomers had expected.

Now, naturally Noma is spearheading the huge task of placing Scandinavian cuisine on the international culinary map, and they are doing it well. But to be perfectly honest - the food served at Noma isn't really something you would whip together for a quick Tuesday night family dinner.

It is, after all - The. Best. Restaurant. In. The. World.

So, in this new corner of The Huffington Post, one of the things I'll try to do is take the New Nordic cusine down from the stars and onto your plate. But my hope is also that the interest in more traditional Scandinavian food will begin to grow outside the region. Because even if New Nordic is the soup d'jour in the best restaurants of Copenhagen, Oslo, and Stockholm - more traditional Scandinavian food also has a lot to offer - especially when it comes to everyday cooking. Because Scandinavian food doesn't require a lot of weird ingredients, spices you've never heard of before, or techniques that take seven years of culinary training to master. It is usually very simple. The kind of food anyone can make at home. Some of the dishes are light, and served with a cold beer they make up the perfect summer lunch. Others are more filling, heavier and better suited for a dark and chilly evening in November together with a glass of red wine and an open fire.

What unites them is that they're honest. Real food. Good food.

But it won't be all Scandinavian here. My personal philosohpy when it comes to food is Honest Cooking - simple dishes with real ingredients and a no-frills approach to preparations. I am not a very technical cook, but I compensate with passion and love. Usually, I get away with it. So as long as a dish can be welcomed in under the Honest Cooking umbrella, there is a reasonable chance it will make it onto here, regardless of the geographical origin of the recipe.

But to start out, here's one of my favorite traditional Scandinavian dishes - Beef A La Lindstrom. A classic Swedish dish, to this day served the same way it was when it was first introduced at the Hotel Witt in Kalmar more than 100 years ago.

SMAKLIG MÅLTID

2010-11-11-Lindstrom5.jpg

Beef A La Lindström

Serves 4
Beef patties
1 Ib of ground beef
1/4 Ib of ground pork
1 Anchovy fillet, finely chopped
4 Free range egg yolks
2 Tablespoons of capers, chopped
3 Tablespoons of pickled beetroot, finely diced
1 Large potato, boiled and very finely diced
1 Onion, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon of mustard
Salt & pepper
Organic butter for frying

To serve
8 Large potatoes
4 Free range eggs
Organic butter for frying and for thickening
½ Cup good beef stock
Salt & black pepper
Chives for garnish

1. Mix all the ingredients for the beef patties in a large bowl. Leave to rest for about 10 minutes.

2. Peel and dice the potatoes and fry them in a little butter and vegetable oil on a medium to low heat until golden brown on the outside and soft on the inside - about 15 minutes. Season with salt.

3. Using your hands, shape 4 large beef patties and fry them over medium heat in butter for about 5 minutes on each side. When done, deglace the pan with the beef stock and cook until reduced to about half. After it has reduced, thicken with butter (or thickener) and pour through a sieve into a saucer.

4. Fry the eggs and serve on top of the beef patties. Place the fried potatoes and drizzle a little pan sauce around the beef (the sauce is not the star of the show here, so don't use too much). Garnish with straws of chives.

Photo taken by Mads Damgaard.

 

Follow Kalle Bergman on Twitter: www.twitter.com/kallebergman

When Copenhagen restaurant Noma was named The Best Restaurant In The World earlier this year, it created quite a stir. A Danish restaurant, the best in the world? Serving Scandinavian food? Contempora...
When Copenhagen restaurant Noma was named The Best Restaurant In The World earlier this year, it created quite a stir. A Danish restaurant, the best in the world? Serving Scandinavian food? Contempora...
 
 
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
12:04 PM on 11/18/2010
Dear Signe! That sounds great - I will make sure to keep an eye out for your book. The english speaking market really needs more and new titles about this "hidden cuisine".

All the best
Kalle
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
SalesmanForLife
Happy Humanist!
12:16 PM on 11/17/2010
Our family really enjoys the Scandanavian cooking show (not sure of the name) which is shot outdoors. We hope to put some of those recipes in our menus and I think the above recipe will be perfect if I can get everyone to agree and eat beef. Several members are completely against beef and it really annoys me:)
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
12:03 PM on 11/18/2010
Dear Salesman,

Thanks for your nice comment - hope you can get the rest of the family on board with the Beef A La Lindstrom... Otherwise, we'll have to find something else for them!

:D
Kalle
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
SalesmanForLife
Happy Humanist!
12:11 AM on 11/19/2010
No problem Kalle. Funny, when I finished commenting on this that wonderful show was on withing minutes and it covered ice cooking. Beef education is needed because there are many ways to enjoy this meat without all the fat.
05:29 AM on 11/17/2010
Brilliant Kalle! So pleased to see the New Nordic (and more traditional favourites such as the recipe listed above) featured here. I've just completed a book on The Secrets of Scandinavian Cooking that will be out in the UK May 2011. Am clearly biased but it's high time food from our region gets the recognition it deserves :) Look forward to seeing future Nordic posts here, Signe x
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
12:05 PM on 11/18/2010
Dear Signe! That sounds great - I will make sure to keep an eye out for your book. The english speaking market really needs more and new titles about this "hidden cuisine".

All the best
Kalle
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babybelle
PureBread Mutt LOL
08:33 AM on 11/15/2010
Several years ago I purchased a Norweigan cookbook.
My ancestors came from Norway and I was interested in what they probably ate.
I ended up selling the cookbook on eBay.
I wasn't interested in cooking with reindeer blood, lots of sour cream, and butter
That seemed to be the main ingredients in most of the recipes.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
12:04 PM on 11/18/2010
I would love to have that cookbook. Cooking with reindeer blood sounds AWESOME!

All the best
Kalle
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Danish5666
What makes life worthwhile isn't measured by GDP
07:32 PM on 11/13/2010
Slet ikke daarligt, en god hakkeboef er nu ikke til at foragte.
07:40 AM on 11/13/2010
Hi Kalle ~ Do you have any cookbook suggestions for those of us new to Nordic / Scandinavian cuisine?

Many thanks. :-)
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
10:48 AM on 11/13/2010
Dear Lacy!

Well, hopefully - there will be a new one coming out in the not too distant future. :D

But until then, "The Scandinavian Cookbook" By Trina Hahnemann or Andreas Viestads "Kitchen Of Light" are about the only ones that come to mind.

All the best
Kalle
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
05:30 PM on 11/13/2010
And for those with a serious, perhaps professional, interest in New Nordic cuisine - there is the new René Redzepi book "NOMA- Time And Place In Nordic Cuisine". It is utterly beautiful (BIG), but even René admits it is mostly inspirational and geared towards chefs....
04:13 PM on 11/12/2010
The recipe name is a bit deceptive. It's called Beef A La Lindström yet it contains pork. This is very frustrating for non-pork eaters at restaurants.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
04:19 PM on 11/12/2010
Dear Arbereshe - just leave the pork out. In fact most of the Beef A La Lindström served in restaurants are with beef only. The added pork was first introduced to me by Über Chef Mr Leif Mannerström - and it makes it just a little bit lighter in texture.

All the best
Kalle
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Danish5666
What makes life worthwhile isn't measured by GDP
07:35 PM on 11/13/2010
Bøf a la lindstrøm is the correct name.
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Danish5666
What makes life worthwhile isn't measured by GDP
07:33 PM on 11/13/2010
Bad translation, the correct is Meat a la....
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ckinsobe
Atheism is a non-prophet organization.
01:48 PM on 11/12/2010
Speaking of Jansson's frestelse, is there a recipe for it with a substitute available in the US for the Swedish Anchovies used in the recipe? I think it could be made with matjes file as well, but that is also not available here as far as I know.

Any ideas?
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
03:52 PM on 11/12/2010
Dear Ckinsobe - I think that IKEA carries matjes fillets. And yes, you can use them as a substitute for the spice cured sprats (ansjovis). All the best
Kalle
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Meathead
I am a Barbecue Whisperer and Hedonism Evangelist.
01:44 PM on 11/12/2010
Sounds delicious, but that patty is really a meatloaf recipe, with the only major innovations being the anchovies and capers (great idea!). And the egg on top is all the rage in gastropubs like Kuma's in Chicago. In fact, in Australia a typical burger will have pickled beetroot, sunnyside up egg, sliced pineapple, a chile paste such as sambal oelek or sriracha, and of course, the bun. I am told that the challenge is to keep the beet juice off your shirt.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
03:54 PM on 11/12/2010
Dear Craig - Yes, both the egg and the beetroots are classics - and even if Beef Lindstrom is over 100 years old, the main inspirational source is believed to be Russian (as Mr Lindstrom himself grew up in St Petersburg)...

All the best
Kalle
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Danish5666
What makes life worthwhile isn't measured by GDP
07:36 PM on 11/13/2010
nothing to do with meatloaf
01:25 PM on 11/12/2010
My family is from Sweden, still have cousins there. We celebrate Annandag Jul (the day after Christmas) with friends and have a three course Swedish dinner. First course is cold-- 2 or 3 types of herring, gravlax, krisps, limpa bread, head cheese, cold ham, new potatoes, salmon mousse, pickled cucumbers, several cheeses...Second course is hot- more new potatoes with dill, more ham, fresh made meatballs with gravy, homemade potatis korv, lutfisk, all this with plenty of aquavit and beer... third course is dessert, which changes every year- this year will be Svensk Spice cake with pepparkakor and coffee....This is my favorite day of the year, I look forward to it more then Christmas. Anyone who says Scndinavian food has no flavor has perhaps only tried Ikea. I'm getting hungry just writing this!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ckinsobe
Atheism is a non-prophet organization.
01:38 PM on 11/12/2010
Va Gott!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
tomteboda
03:24 PM on 11/12/2010
It has tons of flavor! I grew up on the same diet, myself.
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naschkatze
A free man creates himself.
12:16 PM on 11/12/2010
I look forward to a book from you. I have a recent Danish cookbook with a whole chapter on the open-faced sandwiches. (Will not attempt to spell, and the word's a little different in the different languages of the North.) I love them and could live on smorrebrod (?) alone.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
04:25 PM on 11/12/2010
Dear Naschkatze - thank you for the comment. I am too a sucker for smørrebrød - and actually my wedding dinner consisted only of smørrebrød, beer and aquavit (and champagne for my wife - she hates beer)!
All the best
Kalle
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Imzadi
Proud Progressive for decades
07:14 AM on 11/12/2010
Hmmm... Apparently good Scandinavian cooking techniques were forgotten when they arrived in the New World. Here, in Minnesota, Scandinavian food is synonymous for bland, white food. Thank you for putting that perception to rest!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
07:49 AM on 11/12/2010
Dear Imzadi - sorry to hear that! Minnesota should really be a hotbed for the growing interest in Scandinavian cuisine. But a very simple guess would be that most immigrants from Scandinavia were very poor, and had little access to good produce, meat and fish (both back in Scandinavia and in the US) and therefore were unable to pass on the food from the old world to their children? Just a guess. What's your thought?

All the best
Kalle
12:05 AM on 11/12/2010
I am Danish. I always tell my friends that we think dill is exotic, but we take basic flavors to their
heights by treating the ingredients well. What is better than new potatoes with parsillesovs and breaded, fried filet of sole? Simple, but the flavors are intense when the potatoes were dug this morning, the fish was caught this morning and sauteed in Lurpak butter, the parsley was snipped from the kitchen garden just before it was added to the bechamel made with fresh, organic milk and all is seasoned with Læsø salt? Fresh, fresh, fresh and a fine hand with the few spices and seasonings used take the food to extraordinary heights. This is a return to Great-Grandmother's kitchen in many ways, and it is wonderful.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Kalle Bergman
07:51 AM on 11/12/2010
Dear Annetta!

I completely agree - the Grandma kitchen is wonderful.

All the best
Kalle
11:10 PM on 11/11/2010
It's so nice to read anything complimentary about Scandinavia. I live in the Southwest where being blond and blue-eyed is a crime and you have to heap chiles on everything you eat.
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flamflurm
The name's Flurm. Flam Flurm.
10:13 PM on 11/11/2010
Looks lame. I'll stick to French, Italian, and Japanese. I lived in Copenhagen for a year.

Hilariously, a few of the Italian restaurants there double as Tex-Mex ones. I guess the countries' flags are similar enough, because the cuisines aren't.

They couldn't do either.