The Great Pantsuit Problem (And What To Do About It)
In the August issue of Harper's Bazaar, the magazine asks:
Harper's Bazaar: How many pantsuits do you have?
Nancy Pelosi: I don't have any idea. Endless.
It didn't bother me at first. Just a typical question to ask a Washington woman. And then it began to haunt me, that word: "endless." Walking down the wide streets of Capitol Hill I became acutely aware of the troops of women in men's attire gone pastel. How would Hillary have responded to that question? "I rent an airplane hangar to hold all mine. Bill understands."
When did the pantsuit become political armor for powerful women? Worn like Teflon, there seems to be a wildly held belief among these movers and shakers that the jeers and sexist jabs slide right off when you match your blazer and trouser. Wear it in beige and it's as good as camouflage. The British have their hats, the South Americans their sex appeal, the French, their je ne sais quoi; there must be another way for the American woman to convey authority besides the seldom flattering pantsuit.
First ladies don't fall prey to the pantsuit pandemic, but they don't need to. They are walking, sometimes talking, billboards for their husband's campaigns, concerned with conveying elegance not leadership. Think Reagan power red and Nancy's crimson stain. Of Cindy McCain the media generally says, she may not be cutting edge, but she's got that Republican first lady look locked down. She sure does. On any given Sunday, Cindy is trying to dress as much like the American Flag as humanly possible. I bet Betsy Ross couldn't even stand to look at her.
As for Michelle "Puffy Sleeve" Obama, she has decided to make the swashbuckler look her trademark. First there was the Super Tuesday red suit with the sleeves large enough to hide pounds of contraband in.
Then there was the white button-down again with the voluminous sleeves. Tall and lithe enough to carry the clothes, Michelle can somehow make the Three Musketeers fashion sensibility work for her. She might also be able to spread her wings and fly if need be. But besides the puffy shirts, she plays it safe by chasing the Camelot closet.
Pelosi, Clinton, and the rest of the Hill's power women can't just come across as elegant hand-holders--they need clothes to convey an image that they can make the infamous 3am phone call without dressing like men. These power dames are clearly petrified that a sense of style will show frivolity, and seem to regard fashion as a strange viral disease spread by Manhattanites.
Condoleezza "Have Wardrobe, Will Travel" Rice is one of the only power-wielding Washington women immune from the highly contagious pantsuit mania. Sure, she wears them but they're in rotation with Akris separates and Oscar de la Renta mismatching pieces. Ever since she donned the infamous knee-high boots made for a lot more than walking at the Wiesbaden Army Airfield in 2005, she's been slyly showing Washington that a woman in power can dress to identify herself, not as a means to hide. It's a bold statement--more like Burlosconi in his expensive double-breasted suits or Don Corleone's pinstripes than the predictable safe pantaloon of Hillary Clinton.
Couture Condi did suffer a small wardrobe malfunction recently when her flesh-toned blouse and the flashbulbs at a school in Perth, Australia didn't quite agree with each other, but most fashionistas reactions were, hurrah! she wasn't buttoned-up like a Victorian or wearing a poly-cotton blazer with an eagle on her shoulder. And yes, we now know from photographic evidence that the Secretary of State wears a bra.
If you believe what you're clad in doesn't define you, just think of Cheney's gaffe at Auschwitz when he looked as though he were about to shoot up wild boar or man the snowplow rather than represent his country.
For a man or woman in power, clothes are not armor, but a reflection of the way they lead. Political men in their cowboy boots, barn jackets or tightly tailored suits have discovered that. It's time that women step ahead of them and embrace power dressing with a twist, turning the oh so predictable p---suit into a dirty word.
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Pant suits are ugly, period. The female body has certain lines which can be aesthetically worked with, or covered over with a shape-repressing article of clothing that has all the artistry of a burka.
No, you don't have to be thin to wear a dress or skirt. My hairdresser is quite "plump", and she wears dresses with great style. Indeed, the pant suits would make her look even larger.
If professional women want to look dorky and ugly, fine. But how many professional men want to look that way? Men care about their appearance--this is not a sexist issue. Remember the guys back in the seventies with the super wide jacket lapels, shirt collars, and ties? Plus the raised shoes? And the white 'fro's? That style sucked, and it didn't hang around very long. Well, pant suits are not that bad, but I wonder if there will come a time when people will say, "How could they ever have dressed like that?"
For me, that time has come.
For years I had a business-image consulting business.
All the men knew that in order to move up in their company they had to dress in business clothes. The biggest obstacle I had with them was that some didn't realize that they were no longer the same size as they were in college.
There was hardly a man who didn't understand that there is a proper way to dress for business: suit, tie, decent polished shoes, good overcoat in the winter and no cheap-looking watches or jewelry.
Women, on the other hand, still don't seem to quite understand that clothes for business should be just that, clothes for doing business.
Too many have clutched the idea of the ubiquitous pantsuit to their collective bosom, without ever looking at how a pantsuit presents them. Yes, they are comfortable, but at what cost to the professional look they are trying to present?
Many women, for example don't look at the back. If their backside is at all generously proportioned, the pantsuit is not flattering.
A skirted suit is much more flattering and is easy to wear, if the skirt is not too short, or oddly, too long.
Just for the record, Hillary Clinton almost never is wearing a suit that has the right cut for her body. She is much too hippy to wear light colors, or jackets that end mid-hip.
Having said all that, she will continue to wear them because, as I said earlier, they are comfortable.
I'm still just bitter that women can where the equivalent of flip flops at the office.... grrr.
Wait I just realized that I inadvertently used two charged political terms in that sentence, hmm?
They don't where them, they wear them. Were, where, wear, ware. So confusing.
Was it inadvertant?
These powerful women put on their pants one leg at a time just like the rest of us.
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Once again, the focus on how a woman looks, not on her skills level or intellect.
Too bad more women don't put as much energy into their education and professional competence, as they do into looking like an attractive piece of a**.
Unless you're in a certain profession, looking good doesn't pay the bills. With an incredible set of professional skills, you can pay the bills and no one cares how "feminine" you look.
Pushing females to look/act more feminine is a long-time ruse used by men to keep females "in their place." We had overcome that baloney in the 70's. The lesson has been forgotten and now young women all dress like street-walkers. Too bad for them.
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Condi might be fashionable but she sure did a lousy job! I will take Hillary's pantsuits any day.
This is really a very stupid article.
Looking like an attractive piece of a** is a long-time ruse used by women to keep males "in their place". Oh sorry, you didn't know?
There may be a day when a woman's appearance isn't important - but not in our lifetimes. In the meantime, it is possible to look professional and attractive, especially if one has a generous budget.
There are more women finishing college right now than men.... bet you didn't know that.
How about just a nice warm up suit ? or if you want to dress up..Jeans and a nice vest that covers the hip area ? Works for me.
An occasional pantsuit (maybe 5 or 6 times a year and on the weekends) is ok, but shucks their unflattering. Nancy Pelosi wears hers well, but Hillary is to heavy-hipped to look good in them. She should throw out pants, keep the jackets, and have some matching skirts made. Voila!
no kidding get rid of the pant suit, they are UGLY. Show a little more skin (we might actually get something done in washington that way). Talk about reaching across the isles ; )
Some women can't pull off a skirt. Hillary is case in point -very thick ankles/legs.
It would completely distract from anything else,
Pantsuits are very necessary.
Give her a break, people! Can you hear yourselves? Too thick ankles for a skirt - hips too heavy for trousers!
What's left for her - a sari or a burqha?
Let's be just as critical of the men if we're going to rip into women - and one pic of a guy in a parka isn't enough! Though it did give me a laugh. They should all have been forced to wear a single layer of pyjamas, just to give them a real impression of the place they'd never forget...
Trousers are more practical than a skirt - they're not as constricting, have great pockets and are, frankly, more adaptable.
Mens jackets are better too - I like pockets and hate carrying a bag.
Lots of men have 'heavy hips' too - many are too paunchy to wear the jackets they do. Let's concentrate on what they say, and what they do - not on what they wear!
Amusing article. Gave me a smile. Carry on!
Agreed! Now, will you please explain what is up with the ubiquitous "Wilma Beads"?? EVERY political wife or female politician wears them 24/7. Maybe I am old school but they look like cheap costume jewelry to me--real ghetto, really foolish and trashy. What the hell ever happened to REAL pearls, gold, diamonds, precious gems etc esp. for these millionaire ladies??
What the hell happened to real ladies in the USA. I was raised in the USA, but came back to Europe years ago. It is really nice to see real ladies and women here. I attended a conference where a few women CEO's attended. The USA women looked like tramps. Horrific.
Really? The European women looked more sophisticated? I think this is a class or economic issue. Trampy=low budget.
I agree about those silly Wilma beads. They don't look good on anyone.
How do you know they aren't a strand of South Sea Pearls at $20,000 a pop? If Cindy is wearing them you can be sure that's what they are.
A Solution: The knit line -- Missook.
It forgives lumps & bumps.
Looks sleek & modern.
It's literally "wash & wear" - no ironing, no wrinkles.
Packs like a dream.
Accessories make it go Day to Night.
Lasts for YEARS.
It's like "Geranimals' for adults -- everything mixes & matches. Hard to go wrong grabbing any combo in the morning.
Nordstrom. Worth every penny.
I looked it up online - looks nice but expensive! Still, I doubt even your Missook could do anything with my lumps and bumps. Also doesn't seem to be available in the UK....
Do you work for Nordstrom? Missook is horribly dowdy and if any of these women wore it, they would be crucified!
100% polyester and scratchy. Ugh.
Well, I loved your article, till I got to the part where even Michelle O can't dress right. Is there any way for these women to win the power-fashion game? Condi usually looks ok, but I am not sure I'd make her the fashion role model. I give these ladies lots of credit, as most of them - even in the "pant suit" - look wonderful and ready for business. The details are there. On the other hand the men usually get a pass for ill-fitting suits, horrid ties, shirts that buldge or don't fit at the neck and all sorts of other fashion gaffes. ( I do like your example of Cheney's snow-plow driver outfit!)
At least the ladies dress with some color. Not the boring black or blue ALL the men wear..
The only color they have are mostly covered and the stupid ties they wear.
Stop the stupid clothing remarks..
I wonder what you wear???
Awww. come on now! Girls like to dish and talk about fashion!
They're all whip skinny, with the possible exception of Hillary who is on the slender side of normal. Let's see a candidate with a buxom wife! Bush Snr is the only President I can remember who had a totally normal wife at his side who looked like she was there as his wife, take her or leave her, and not as a fashion accessory. Would we have been so easy on Barbara if we applied todays standards - or would there be lots of articles about 'frumps in the White House' or 'old before your time?'
Barbara looked like she'd have been his wife whether he was head greenkeeper at the golf club or foreman at the factory.
Barbara Bush...tot
Personally I was raised in the JackieO era. It never ceases to amaze me how people ask me, "where are you going, all dressed up" ?, when I'm wearing a summer dress or accessorize a plain outfit with jewelry, or scarf. Our standard of dress in this country is disgusting. You don't wear short shorts in the street, jeans to a funeral, or a pants suit to formal night on a cruise ship. There are times when appropriate dress is necessary, and I don't mean jeans. It is more than possible to be completely comfortable,with sensible shoes ( who sez they gotta be stilletos ) in a suit or tailored dress at the office. And were not talking an office here. We're talking about the Oval office or Capitol office. And what's wrong with an intelligent, strong woman looking attractive or even sexy instead of like one of the guys ? Not me. I LOVE looking like a woman and if I had their money I'd bring the look of JackieO back to the Capitol.
Thank you. Jackie O was the shizznit. These girls today could take a lesson from Jackie O. Why have all your T&A hanging out when a well-tailored suit and some black leather pumps can cover everything and still have you looking like hot sex on a platter? That's what made Princess Di so hot. Class, not ass.
But you also don't have to water down your femininity with pantsuits to be taken seriously. I own my own design firm, and while I don't mind business casual for my employees, I love to wear smart dresses or a well-tailored suit. I rock the bright colors, suede boots, stiletto heels...wh
I lived in D.C. for 10 years and I know the Capitol Hill woman-in-power mindset that makes women dress like they think men would dress if they were women. I hated that pastel pantsuit thing, which is why I dress the way I do now. Maybe it's a generational thing and back in the day you had to dress like that to get ahead. But while I work in a male-dominated profession, I am a woman in power because the quality of my work speaks for itself.
Thanks for your passionate post. I bet you can explain the Wilma bead craze to me! Wilma beads are what Michele and Cindy are wearing in the accompanying photos. You know, like Wilma Flinstone used to wear!
Good for you!
Just to redress the gender balance - guys in this country dress really badly too. Now a lot of men look good in their power suit, but it's the ones wearing casual clothes in in appropriate situations that get me. We went out dressed up last week for our anniversary, and there in the fancy restaurant was a middle aged guy in shorts, wearing a baseball cap several clicks too small for his head. Pitiful.
There's an easy way to turn this fashion disaster into a winner. Just mix it up. Never wear matching jacket and pants. Match the jacket to a patterned skirt, or match the pants with a different colored jacket. Easy.
Amen! Matching polyester pant suits came and went in the 70s. Any figure flaws are accentuated by wearing a tight, light colored pant suit head to toe.
Exactly.
I agree - it's all about proportion, style and color - we all have more leeway than we might assume.
The problem is that these women simply can't win. Dress too conservatively and you'll end up being called 'matronly' and 'stuffy'. Dress like you came off the pages of Vogue and you'll be called 'unprofessional' or 'trampy' like Carla Bruni, the first lady of France.
Personal style is just that.....p
No kidding...
LOL! Yeah, they really are a bunch of very easily entertained sick puppies. My advice--never complain when a woman shows her decolletage! She may never do it again! Just be privately appreciative while you maintain a discreet and dignified silence. It may end up becoming a regular treat!
Not really. Fashions come and go, and this one left a good long while ago. Seems no one bothered to tell the powerful ladies in DC to catch up with the times.
Touche', TchoupitoulasCanal! Well said.
Although Carla Bruni looks quite demure in her recent role as first lady of France, she seems to be playing a temporary role and is a shadow of her former self. I don't think it works and I doubt many people buy it.
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