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Kira Craft

Kira Craft

Posted: October 20, 2008 08:14 AM

Lipstick Theory Blues


Shopping at the major department stores in the heart of New York City should never be a meditative experience. Sometimes it can be transcendental, yes- I can attest to a sort of fleeting runner's high induced by the abundant proximity of so many shiny pretty things all in one place. But never have I entered a department store in search of Zen.

It seems that now's the time though, to go shopping if what I am craving is a quiet getaway. Our spiraling economic crisis has decimated the conviviality of the department store biosphere, deftly ripping apart the delicate seams of its dreamy fantasies. What's left is a thick veil of perfume to cover the smell of sweat. Entire floors of designer frocks languish on their hangers yearning for bodies to fulfill them. It's a bit like Pompeii after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius- everything remains neatly in its place, waiting for business as usual, but the falling ashes blot out the sun, forcing survivors to scurry for more hospitable territory.

This is the moment when cosmetic companies smile. For now is the time when will women take comfort in the indulgent but relatively inexpensive pleasure of lipstick. " When lipstick sales go up, people don't want to buy dresses," says Leonard Lauder, Chairman of Estee Lauder Cosmetics. Lauder is credited with the "lipstick theory" which suggests that the economy can be read by the rise and fall of lipstick sales. Indeed, he should know, since Lauder's Leading Lipstick Index tracks their team of brands, which account for roughly half of the prestige cosmetic sales in the U.S., and includes well know labels like Clinique, Stila, Origins, Bobbi Brown, Prescriptives and MAC.

Lipstick, which dates back at least 5,000 years, has often colored significant moments in history. Cleopatra had her lipstick made from crushed carmine beetles for a deep red pigment that used ants as its base. Bright red lipstick became popular as the 1920's ushered in the successful mass marketing of makeup to the U.S and women gained the right to vote. Marilyn Monroe's 1950's glamour girl lips remain an icon of sexuality today. Post-9/11 makeup arbiters declared red lipstick the comeback kid of cosmetics and Wall Street Journal columnist Peggy Noonan proclaimed, "It's feminine and full of life," symbolizing that "a certain return to essentials is going on." An ad for Revlon's Absolutely Fabulous lipstick from 2001 captures the Index perfectly: it featured a model standing in front of what looked like the NYSE trading floor and read, "On a bad day, there's always lipstick."

But is there? Before you rush out and spend those last few stimulus payment dollars squirreled safely away in the cookie jar on a new tube of crimson, be warned: a study from 2007 by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that a significant portion of lipstick manufactured in the United States contains surprisingly high levels of lead, which can be toxic when ingested. So now even our smallest secure indulgence, a simple lipstick, is parsed into cautionary territories of safe and unsafe, with rather ambiguous guidelines on exactly how widespread and pertinent this health issue could be. My brow furrows and my lips purse as I try to figure out where to run next. Times really are tough.

 
 
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07:55 PM on 10/22/2008
Lipstick was popularized as a sign of female liberation: in the old days, women accused of harlotry were forced to paint there lips, so all could see and shame them. The popularity of lipstick started as a way women could tell the establishment to screw off.

Great - because lipstick is very sexy!
01:56 PM on 10/22/2008
That photograph is hidious. "Nair"l smells like Sh*t - but if you are going to go close up on an interview or article.,should you not use a good skin model?

This makes Madonna look normal. Women care. They may seem like high maintenance, but we're really not.
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BowlingForRevenge
~ rabid yellow dog dem tiger mom & proud of it ~
11:41 AM on 10/21/2008
Well I guess that pitbulls gonna be laying in a supply!
06:36 PM on 10/20/2008
Somestimes you have no choice but to wear a little lipstick or your lips blend with your face!
05:58 PM on 10/20/2008
Lighten up. On a bad day women can indulge in lipstick and maybe even a few licks of ice cream. Take your pick. In this economy, let's opt for both and pretend things are OK.
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goodgravy
05:18 PM on 10/20/2008
i never could understand the whole cosmetic thing...wonder bra's, slimming foundations, painted nails, painted toes, painted eyes, painted cheeks, painted lips, colored hair, artificial fragrance. oy. you're not looking at a woman you're looking at concocted artifice that's supposed to convey 'naturalness'. go figure.

why is a person so insecure that they cannot walk out of the house without this cosmetic costume on?
06:03 PM on 10/20/2008
Men and woman benefit from a little help. Look to all the ancient tribes - they believed in body art; Have you looked in the mirror lately?
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evekendall
12:42 PM on 10/21/2008
Because we may have descended from Cro-Magnon, but we sure don't want to look like one.
03:17 PM on 10/20/2008
Yes, times are tough but lipstick lasts! It is a gender neutral treasure, too, that should be enjoyed by all.
02:42 PM on 10/20/2008
In the seventies a friend gave me a book by Scavoulo on women, it showed famous women with and without make up, (I was painting alot of portraits at the time ). and the more I looked at it the more I got to like the natural beauty without the make up. With some women the transformation was quite dramatic. I lost this book in the floods in the 90's.
Putting on make is an art, too much and it spoils the effect.
12:47 PM on 10/20/2008
I just came upon this absurd article and absolutely had to say something about it. First, I agree that women don't go shopping in search of a Zen experience - especially for lipstick. I am one of those men who, while absolutely loving women, would NEVER go out with, nor get intimate with, nor kiss a lipsticked gal. Why? First the messiness of it. But mostly because the wearing of lipstick sends up all kinds of warning signs to many men such as myself that the woman is unhappy and insecure about her self image and is looking for an external fix to her self-perceived inadequacy and thus gravitates to material/superficial solutions. Ladies of the lip gloss and lip stain (not to mention the total coverup of one's face - our window unto the world), perhaps you might want to search for that real kind of beauty that is beyond skin deep and which we all possess when we set our minds to uncovering it rather than covering it up with lip goo, etc. Perhaps you might think about looking for that Zen experience after all. And when and if you do, I'd recommend an itinerary that doesn't include the cosmetics counter at your temples of consumption, aka "major department stores."
02:17 PM on 10/20/2008
LMAO, that is the most absurd thing I have ever read. I wear lipstick because I'm insecure? Hilarious.

I am a confident, mature and intensely sensual woman that wears lipstick because she likes the way it looks.

For years I was an insecure and self-loathing person. That self image was helped along by abusive men in my life that led me to believe I could never be anything without them. I hated the way my mouth looked and never wore lipstick.

Then I began a campaign to change my life. I kicked those fellas to the curb and embraced myself as I am. And you know what? I LIKE the way I look with my makeup and lipstick. I also like the way I look when I first get up in the morning and don't have a thing on my face. I like the fact that a lot of men and women end up being shocked when they find out there is a brain and a person that thinks deeply and passionately behind the pretty face.

I think perhaps you are either insecure yourself, or just haven't met the right women yet. What a shame you are prejudging and eliminating such a huge segment of the female population over your own perception of someone that makes the choice to grab a tube of lipstick and apply it with joy.
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alieninvader
03:10 PM on 10/20/2008
Do you comb your hair? Do you cut your hair? Do you shave? Do you wear clothes that fit your body? If so, you are in no position to judge.