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To Meat Or Not To Meat

Posted: 02/21/11 10:43 AM ET

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I've spent quite a lot of time ruminating over the notion of eating meat. Like a cow chewing its cud, I have tried to carefully digest what I've gleaned from reading Fast Food Nation, Omnivore's Dilemma, In Defense of Food, Eating Animals and Food Matters, and watching Supersize Me and the incredibly eye-widening Food Inc. At the very least, I think I can say I'm a conscious eater. I'm not going to delve into the horrifying truth of how government and industry conspired to convince us that we all need to have a big slab of (corn-fed) meat at the center of most of our meals on a daily basis, I'm just going to say that we should all be eating a great deal less of the stuff -- for our own sake and that of the planet. But a recent article in Vanity Fair, where fluffy blonde wellness "guru" Kathy Freston (Tom Freston's wife, so she can't be far from her own show on Oprah's new network) convinces a die-hard British carnivore to turn vegan really raised my hackles because of its facile presentation of this very complex issue.

After seeing images of cows being dragged to slaughter, and then watching her father die from a "tennis-ball-sized" brain tumor she assumes is the result of a meat-based diet, Freston is now eating at Candle 79 and wearing Stella McCartney pleather shoes. I suppose this vegangelism is the inevitable backlash to the recent mania for meat (especially pork), but it seems like further evidence of the yo-yo dieting that is among the many unhealthy habits bringing this country to its dimpled and diabetic knees.

I admit, it's tough to know where to turn for "the truth." And if local, humanely-raised meat and poultry are not available to you -- either logistically or financially -- I can see how eating no meat at all might be a reasonable solution. I eat meat once or twice a week at most, often preferring to use it as a supporting player to vegetable stars, and what I buy comes only from small local farms. But it was discovering Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's seminal must-read, The River Cottage Meat Book, that gave me a fascinating new perspective on this whole question of To Meat Or Not To Meat.

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Hugh is a food writer and TV personality in the UK, and the author of the River Cottage series (great books, all of them). His habit of picking up roadkill and "eating the hedgerows" (grazing from the bounty of the wild English countryside) earned him the nickname of Hugh Fearlessly-Eatsitall. On his next series, TV Dinners, he famously used a human placenta to whip up a pâté that he served to the baby's family and friends. Admittedly a bit hardcore, and yet you can see that this is a man who fully respects the cycle of life.

It's important to bear in the mind that this discussion stems from the assumption that the current state of industrial farming is intolerable, and that a return to more traditional pasturing is essential. This means that the animals we raise for meat must be allowed their dignity -- to eat what is natural to them, to grow at a normal pace and to roam as they like. And it means that we, as their caretakers, are responsible for helping them to live and die as free from stress and pain as possible.

I'm not going to be able to impart here all the wisdom of Hugh's polemic against the notion of vegetarianism, but I will paraphrase some of the meatiest bits. Borrowing from Stephen Budiansky's 1992 book, The Covenant of the Wild, he talks about the symbiosis of domestication: how, literally thousands upon thousands of years ago, wild animals that began as camp followers became increasingly dependent upon human handouts of waste food and leftovers, until they entered into full domestication. In exchange (ultimately for their lives), they received protection from predators, assistance in bearing young and even rudimentary health care. What, he asks, would become of our domesticated animals if we were to stop eating them?

I realized that I had never pondered this, nor heard it mentioned in any vegangelical proselytizing, which generally stakes out an intractable moral high ground that is certainly understandable and possibly superior but not especially practical. Would we place our animals in some sort of retirement parks to die of old age? Would we then feed their carcasses to our dogs and cats -- or must they become vegetarian, too? Or would we let our cows and goats and chickens loose to fend for themselves? Where would that be, when there is scarcely any "wilderness" left? How would we fertilize our crops? And if by some miracle, the animals then "reverted" to a wild state, would their deaths at the hands (claws, teeth) of predators -- mountain lions, foxes, coyotes -- really be any more pleasant?

I leave you with these questions and with the strong exhortation to invest in Hugh's mighty tome, which is as chock-full of sensible information and relevant philosophy as it is mouth-watering recipes.

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STEAK TARTARE
A dish that, for obvious reasons, one should only make with beef raised and slaughtered with love and care.

About 5 ounces humanely-raised rump or sirloin steak per person

The Trimmings:
1 raw farm egg yolk per person
Finely chopped shallots
Salted capers, rinsed and chopped
Cornichons
Minced flat-leaf parsley
English mustard (or prepared horseradish)
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco sauce
Tomato ketchup (preferably homemade)
Sea salt (not too much)
Freshly ground black pepper
Melba toast and/or French fries



Trim the meat of all sinew and fat (except marbling), then process or mince it finely. A traditional way to do this is to scrape the meat with the blade of a knife, but I find that the resulting texture is too fine and almost like pâté.

Shape the meat into mounds, one per person, and place on serving plates.

Make a dip in each mound and gently tip the egg yolk into it. Place all the other ingredients in individual bowls, take to the table and encourage everyone to mix his own. Serve with Melba toast and/or fries.

Suggested quantities per person: 1 teaspoon shallots, ½ teaspoon capers, 1 teaspoon parsley, ¼ teaspoon mustard, 3 shakes Worcestershire sauce, 4 drops Tabasco, ½ teaspoon ketchup, pinch of salt, and 3-4 grindings of pepper.

 

Follow Laura Silverman on Twitter: www.twitter.com/glutton4life

I've spent quite a lot of time ruminating over the notion of eating meat. Like a cow chewing its cud, I have tried to carefully digest what I've gleaned from reading Fast Food Nation, Omnivore's Dil...
I've spent quite a lot of time ruminating over the notion of eating meat. Like a cow chewing its cud, I have tried to carefully digest what I've gleaned from reading Fast Food Nation, Omnivore's Dil...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Kory Leach
12:02 AM on 02/28/2011
No lie, this guy likes beef, pork, fish, poultry, and pretty much every animal I have eaten. The article is well written, although in the recipe for the tartar he probably should have mentioned the care needed when eating raw egg. While not a very large risk for contamination it is worth mentioning.
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John Lewis
03:21 PM on 02/27/2011
I like the argument that being vegetarian or vegan kills more animals because animals are killed when plants are harvested for human consumption because most plant food in this country goes to the animals raised for food. The number of animals killed in plant harvesting has been inflated for this silly argument and most of these animals are still killed for people eating meat. And the whole farming grains damages the soil so don't be vegetarian is flawed also because an overwhelming majority of the grain produced in America is fed to cattle and chickens.
02:08 AM on 02/26/2011
The question of what would happen to all our farm animals if everyone stopped eating them is only really relevant in a case where everyone magically goes vegetarian overnight. Realistically the market is based on supply and demand, the less animals eaten the less animals bred. Personally I would choose non-existence over a short brutal existence to satisfy someone's tastebuds anyway.

Killing animals for food is so unnecessary, why not just eat something cruelty free?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
03:39 AM on 02/26/2011
Which food products are cruelty free?
12:42 AM on 02/27/2011
The lamb in my freezer is cruelty free. I took good care of those lambs. They were never hungry, thirsty or sick. They spent their life on pasture. They also had access to shelter whenever they felt the need. And when it was time to turn them into meat, their deaths were quick and painless.
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eljefefx
01:58 PM on 02/25/2011
Though I am a meatatarian, this was a fairly well written article.
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DebbyM
10:34 PM on 03/25/2011
Wrong.
04:00 AM on 02/24/2011
The volume of meat you described yourself as eating seems a healthy balanced amount, although it does seem by your phrasing that you enjoy the culture war as much as they do.

I stopped eating most meat because I realized that with rare exception I just don't like it. I like the things attached to it. The condiments, the sauces, the fixings. I like the texture of meat but there are a lot of substitutes that are not much different. I think a lot of people would feel the same way were they to pause and think about it.

I don't actively avoid meat. I basically just rarely buy it by preference. Away from home or eating in someone else's home i partake with no qualms. I definitely prefer my meat at least medium well, though.
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Singing Sparrow
retired-government worker
11:22 AM on 02/23/2011
Weird thought keeps popping up in my mind-how loving is it to keep animals to kill and eat them ? I don't want to eat animals anymore and I have leaned in this direction all my life. I don't feel like going to war with anyone over this but I am happy to have a kitchen free of blood and cooked flesh.
mothergrace
If they knock you down, bite 'em on the ankle.
12:57 PM on 02/23/2011
You may not want to deal with it directly but all food involves death and I don't mean plant death either. To grow food, fields are plowed killing creatures directly and destroying habitat.
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suzy chicago
10:28 AM on 02/25/2011
Fruitarianism doesn't kill animals. Fruit trees provide habitat.
02:11 AM on 02/26/2011
Yes, so don't we have an ethical responsibility to limit the amount of suffering we cause? By not eating meat you are not only saving those animals slaughtered for food you are also saving the millions of mice and other creatures that would have been killed plowing up the grain to feed them. The knowledge that you can't live without causing some destruction is a reason to try to live more compassionately, not just say oh well may as well not try I'll just kill anything if it's convenient.
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Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
01:29 PM on 02/23/2011
Good! More for the rest of us!
11:08 AM on 02/23/2011
There is no such thing as humanely killing anything. Animal flesh and secretions are the number one cause of heart disease, cancer, and osteoporosis.
mothergrace
If they knock you down, bite 'em on the ankle.
12:59 PM on 02/23/2011
Many of the claims against meat have proven false. As for killing something humanely, of course there are different ways to raise and kill animals. Some are much better than others.
04:22 PM on 02/23/2011
Like what? What specific claims? You might as well have said many of the claims against uranium exposure have proven false.
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Eric Mann
Do you want to be on the opposite side of Progress
01:31 PM on 02/23/2011
Apparently, there is no such thing as "live and let live" to you either.
BTW, it is over-eating, meaning how MUCH one eats, not WHAT one eats that causes these things.
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03:32 PM on 02/22/2011
I hardly think this argument is why anyone should keep eating meat. We don't (or most don't) eat cats or dogs and they have not become extinct. And to say that the wild animal death provoked death is worse than any other death is ridiculous. When was the last time you went to Africa and ate all of the zebras so the lions didn't get them. I should eat beef because I feel for the cow?(But only if it is locally grown, grass fed cow?)
09:13 PM on 02/22/2011
Dogs and cats are small enough to keep in a house, easy to clean up after and cheap to feed. Very few people would be willing to keep farm animals as pets.
10:13 PM on 02/22/2011
You know there are wild animals that roam this planet, right?
12:59 AM on 02/26/2011
Horses are not small enough to keep in a house, easy to clean up after or cheap to feed. just thought i'd share
EvolveorPerish
R E anna what have you done?
09:25 PM on 02/22/2011
I've never eaten zebra. I've never seen it in the grocery store either. Weird comparison.
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alteredstory
Hold on to the center
02:46 PM on 02/23/2011
It's not bad - a little tangy.
01:51 PM on 02/22/2011
Laura Silverman is simply reiterating (rather weakly) what Jonathan Safran Foer called "The Myth of Consent," or the belief that domestication is a symbiotic relationship benefitting both humans and animals, instead of a condition of domination where humans are the only beneficiaries. Safran Foer says:

"This is the post-Darwinian version of the ancient *myth of animal consent*. It is offered by ranchers in defense of the violence that is part of their profession, and makes appearances in agricultural school cirricula. Propping up the story is the idea that the interests of the species and those of individuals often conflict, but if there were no species there would be no individuals. If humankind went vegan, the logic goes, there would be no more farmed animals...The animals in effect, *want* us to farm them. They prefer it this way...

In ancient Greece the myth of consent was enacted at the oracle of Delphi by sprinkling water on the heads of animals before slaughter. When the animals shook off the water by nodding their heads, the oracle would interpret this as consent to be slaughetered and say, "That which willing nods...I say you may justly sacrifice."...In the ancient Israelite tradition, the red heifer sacrificed for Israel's atonement must walk to the altar willingly or the ritual is invalid. The myth of consent has many versions, but all imply a 'fair deal' and, at least metaphorically, animal complicity in their own domestication and slaughter."
11:36 PM on 02/23/2011
With or without a fence, my goats would return to my barn every night. That's good enough for me.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
02:31 AM on 02/24/2011
Dairy cows always go back to the barn on their own, too. The symbiotic relationship between humans and domesticated animals is real, despite the skepticism of people like SpoonPlayer and Jonathan Safran Foer, whose interactions with animals are, I suspect, largely, if not entirely, theoretical rather than empirical.
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jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
02:47 PM on 02/24/2011
Do animals want their habitats destroyed to grow crops? Do they consent to being chopped up by a plow? Honestly.
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maslin
At 6 bn km, it's mostly small stuff.
04:37 PM on 02/24/2011
RE: 'I hate it when two people argue and ..."

I don't think we're really arguing, though the possibility exists!

For myself, I love it when two people who I have enjoyed speaking with disagree civilly. It frequently provides me a fantastic learning opportunity.

I think in this case, if we keep going, our argument is going to hinge on narrow vs loose definitions of a certain term.
06:50 AM on 02/22/2011
To advocate that people stop eating meat will create bigger problems down the line. Consider that long time ago the way animals were raised was a non-issue. As demand increased more efficient methods had to be identified. If the population increased vege consumption production will need to be increased and this will lead to problems like deforestation, genetically modifying etc.

Eating meat is part of a chain - tinkering with it without much thought will put the system out of balance and create bigger problems down the line
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Progress08
I've come to regard you as people I've met
01:14 PM on 02/22/2011
Profit is the culprit. Greed always leads to destruction. I think everyone in America should watch Food Inc., or at the very least go to Youtube and type in Joel Saladin to learn about the better way of growing food.
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jessivehadit
Philosopher, Scientist, Writer, Researcher
02:24 PM on 02/22/2011
Human Overpopulation is the real culprit.
06:35 PM on 02/23/2011
Your argument preferring meat consumption over veg*n diet because of overpopulation does not make sense. Meat-based diet is capable of causing deforestation. Those herbivorous animals you eat require food too. Cutting out the meat at least eliminates the mass-consumption of wheat by factory farm animals, while the additional veg*n consumption I doubt is more than that of factory farm animals

In any case, overpopulation is the primary problem for deforestation, not necessarily the diet (certainly not the veg*n diet, but possibly the meat-based diet).
12:02 AM on 02/24/2011
Overpopulation aside, agriculture (i.e., the reliance on annual crops) has always been an environmental disaster. Just look at the land between the Tigris and the Euphrates rivers. Once called the Fertile Crescent, it was a land of forests, grasslands and wetlands before agriculture turned it into a salt desert. North Africa was also a verdant land before it became the breadbasket (not the meatbasket) for the Roman Empire. The slums of India are filled with refugees from former farmlands that can no longer support crops.

When land is used for grazing, the livestock adds nutrients to the soil. Annual crops only take from the soil. Add irrigation into the mix and you have a disaster in the making.
01:32 PM on 02/24/2011
I agree with you that meat based diet is capable of causing deforestation. The point I am trying to make is "tinkering with it without much thought will put the system out of balance and create bigger problems down the line”. This is unknown territory, is vege production increases significantly it will create problems that most of us don't anticipate today. The fast food industry probably didn't anticipate 50/100 year ago the impact it is having today. My point is that this requires careful consideration, a simple switch from meat to vege will solve some problems but may create other unanticipated problems down the line
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aaronf
wrapping my head around it all
01:39 AM on 02/22/2011
This quote about beef sounds like such an oxymoron: "raised and slaughtered with love and care."

Slaughtering is the opposite of love and care!
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sabelmouse
i love to tumble , ask me why .
07:07 AM on 02/22/2011
no it isn't. there are huge differences in living and dying.
01:29 PM on 02/22/2011
Not always. In many Native American cultures, hunting rituals and practices involved an expression of gratitude for the (departed and tasty) animal's regrettable but necessary sacrifice. Same principle.
05:37 PM on 02/22/2011
But it isn't necessary. It's healthier to live without animal products.
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12:52 AM on 02/22/2011
Veganism:
"an intractable moral high ground that is certainly understandable and possibly superior but not especially practical".

There is no superiority in it, and the only reason why it could be considered even slightly practical is because of our modern food distribution system, which is powered by petro fuels. It's a diet based on emotion, not fact.

I do think that a vegetarian diet, with animal byproducts bought only from humane sources, could be considered superior though. I have a few friends that are like that, and I respect them greatly.
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UniversalStop
05:00 AM on 02/22/2011
Yes, because all meat consumption is local.
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jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
01:53 PM on 02/22/2011
I don't understand your comment. Could you clarify?
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02:19 PM on 02/22/2011
All meat production can be local, & sustainable, maybe not at the rates it is currently consumed, but that's debatable. The same cannot be said for grains & vegi's.
Also, without the use of animal based fertility inputs, there is no sustainable agriculture. Of course it's really hard to discuss that truth when those on both sides of this issue refuse to accept reality: we don't need CAFO's, but growers can't grow vegi's & grains sustainably without animal inputs.

Not sure what you mean by local meat 'consumption'?
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Hypnos Rises
Part Very liberal Democrat...part hybrid monster
12:47 AM on 02/22/2011
There are labs actually growing meat as well...it may be a future option.
EvolveorPerish
R E anna what have you done?
09:57 PM on 02/22/2011
No one can reply to this one. Cease and desist.
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maslin
At 6 bn km, it's mostly small stuff.
11:59 PM on 02/22/2011
PetriSteak®.