The Case Against the Victory Garden

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Posted June 9, 2008 | 12:29 PM (EST)



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(Part 5 in the Core Competency Moms series)

You can't set foot in a grocery store these days without noticing a certain trend in prices. By some calculations, milk costs 25% more than it did at this time last year; egg prices have risen 40%. Many vegetable and fruit prices are up 5-10%, in part because of rising transportation costs.

These numbers are frustrating because we have to eat, and so the Wall Street Journal ran a feature last Thursday claiming that a growing number of Americans are fighting inflation the old-fashioned way: planting vegetable patches in their backyards. A Portland, Oregon gardening store reports that sales of vegetable plants are up 43%, even as sales of flower perennials are down; stores in Austin, Texas and Westfield, New Jersey report the same thing.

If true, it's fascinating because this micro-trend runs counter to the tidal wave of food outsourcing that's swept through grocery stores over the past 20 years. Sales of pre-cut fruits and veggies, and packaged salads, for instance, have risen 5-10% a year for much of the past decade.

But the re-emergence of what look like old fashioned victory gardens (home plots tended during World War II to reduce market demand for produce) deserves a closer look because it has a lot to tell us about the odd calculations many families make about household work and expenses.

I've been writing here on the Huffington Post these past few weeks about what I call "Core Competency Moms" - women who outsource or ignore things other people can do just as well in order to focus on what they do best: nurturing their families and their paid work. People shrug about the more important "ignore" part, but the outsourcing idea tends to get people a bit bothered. The first thing many readers tell me is "I can't afford that!" One joked that the headline should be "Rich women discover they can hire maids!" But when we take a closer look at home economics, the truth is a lot more complicated. As the re-emergence of victory gardens shows, we miscalculate the question of outsourcing or in-sourcing three ways:

We already outsource more than we think.
Even if there is a victory garden renaissance going on, only a handful of Americans grow all their own food. That means most of us outsource this chore to some extent. We also outsource a lot of food prep. According to the National Restaurant Association, even Americans who earn less than $15,000 a year eat an average of 3.2 commercially prepared meals per week. Few Americans of any income level make their own clothes; we outsource what used to be a regular part of the "mom" job description to factories around the world because they do it cheaper and, frankly, better than most of us could achieve with a needle and thread. Rather than hang sheets on the clothesline, most of us outsource this task to a dryer. We outsource dish scrubbing to a dishwasher. Unless you homeschool, you probably outsource a big chunk of your children's education. You most likely outsource lighting and air conditioning to the power company, rather than installing solar panels, lighting candles or waving a fan. If you wear suits to work, you probably outsource dry-cleaning. So I find it strange that people draw the line at a laundry or cleaning service.

We misjudge what things cost. If people are looking to save money, growing vegetables is an odd place to start. If obesity statistics are to be believed, fresh produce is a disturbingly small part of the average American budget.

But we misjudge the cost of many things. For instance, most people have no real idea what outsourcing regular household chores would cost. We associate "maids" and "cooks" and "concierges" with wealthy people, and don't consider the rise, over the past three decades, of small businesses that do similar activities. Since these small businesses work for many families, they can achieve economies of scale, and charge prices more in line with a normal family's budget. A cleaning service can cost about $30 per week if they come every 3 weeks. Sending out the laundry costs $20-30 (for a family) per week. Getting groceries delivered weekly from an online service is about $8 more than it would cost to go in person (this includes tipping the delivery guy; if you get bad gas mileage, this number is less).

In other words, it costs $250-300 per month to live like a rich woman with a maid, a launderer, and someone who stocks the pantry. Or maybe you don't mind laundry, but you do hate cooking. For the same amount, you could hire someone who likes cooking to whip up some freezable weeknight dinners for a few hours each weekend (which might be cheaper than eating out).

Certainly, $250 is not nothing, and many Americans would be hard pressed to immediately find an additional $250 in their monthly disposable income. But the best kind of budgeting aligns our spending with our priorities. Maybe if we prefer spending weekends playing in the park to doing laundry, over time we can transition to cheaper cars and allocate the savings to outsourcing chores. Or maybe we misjudge what our true monthly disposable income is anyway. Most pertinent for middle-class American families? Tax refunds, now coming out to around $2500 a year. People say they plan to save it or pay bills, but in reality, most of us treat it as a windfall and buy relatively random stuff. That's well over $200 a month in additional income if you adjust your withholding - enough to never scrub toilets again.

Time is not free. This is where the whole save-money-by-doing-it-yourself argument goes south. Because, culturally, we have long expected women to do domestic work to earn their keep, we still balk at paying for many things that women could do themselves. But if you are in the labor force at all, your time is worth something. Even if you are caring for children full-time, you could make money by babysitting the neighbors' children on occasion. Yet we largely fail to build the opportunity cost of our time into our budget calculations.

In the Wall Street Journal's vegetable patch article, South Carolina resident Sarah Rosenbaum marveled that "You get a pack of seeds for a dollar or two, and you have got a whole bed of organic vegetables for a fraction of what you'd pay at the store. And they taste better."

The latter is definitely true. If you're planting a garden for taste, or for fun - as an alternative to TV watching in your free time - that's great. But as far as home economics goes, that's a different matter.

Vermont resident Michelle von Turkovich told the Journal that she started gardening after noticing that her monthly grocery bill was topping $800 (she has three teenagers). She also said that tending her 10-by-12-foot plot takes a lot of time - at least an hour after work each day, and half the weekend. Let's say this is 10 hours a week.

In Barbara Kingsolver's best-selling memoir, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, she calculated that the value of the vegetables, chickens and turkeys her family harvested during a year of labor on their small farm was $4,410. That's a fair chunk of change. But it comes out to $85 a week - including meat. If a part-time farm contributes $85 a week in meat and produce, it's unlikely that a 10-by-12-foot vegetable patch is going to produce more than $25 of weekly savings. At 10 hours a week, that comes out to less than minimum wage - which explains why gardening remains a hobby for most people.

Sewing clothes is also a hobby. For a growing percentage of Americans, cooking is becoming a hobby, rather than a necessity, too. Victory gardens notwithstanding, over time, most of what's long been deemed women's work will take on this status as well.

 
 

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- cyranorox See Profile I'm a Fan of cyranorox permalink

There is something very wrong with the relationship of price to real cost- the commercial food price is low because the labor is underpaid, the soil is depleted, the fertilizer is made from, and the machinery run on, the extracted wealth of the world, the oil. IOW, the capital of the planet.
Real gardens have real value and the comparison numbers you can get are too many layers deep in falsity to measure the difference.
My food costs, what with water, soil amendment, tools, and maintenance, about what high-quality produce costs - but without [much] oil burnt, poison spread, or trucks driven. My food is, in fact, a hedge, a pleasure, a gift, a ceremony.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 12:24 AM on 06/10/2008
- homesteader See Profile I'm a Fan of homesteader permalink

I'm reading Michael Pollan's In Defense of Food this week.

Worth thinking about in this context.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 09:05 PM on 06/09/2008
- JScott See Profile I'm a Fan of JScott permalink

So this is titled 'The Case Against Victory Gardens' so what should we do, continue dependency on the agro-industrial supermarket big box model, don't question where, how our food comes from or how it's grown/processed.....sounds like the Matrix to me.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 05:16 PM on 06/09/2008
- robertsandimas See Profile I'm a Fan of robertsandimas permalink

I'm old, retired, have time to tend my garden and my tomatoes are safe. We (partner and myself) also compostand don't use chemicals. Everything we grow tastes sooooooooo good.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 05:12 PM on 06/09/2008
- DickTater See Profile I'm a Fan of DickTater permalink

I agree that on the surface the dollars do not merit my gardening.
But we are not trucking that food. It is safer and healthier and doesn't have stuff sprayed on it. If you count my health savings and that I don't get salmonella or ecoli from CA and I don't eat pesticides, maybe the dollars I am coming out way ahead.

Lots of groceries need refrigeration every step of their journey from afar, so not only do they require fuel but they require refridgeration and spraying and coddling. Many of these veggies are grown using petrocarbons, the machinery runs on diesel or gas, they are processed using a lot of energy and water and cooling and freezing before they ever get on a truck and get distributed.

Plus, no amount of money or economizing is going to help someone when the shit really hits the fan. Whether it's bird flu, or a great depression, or gas prices wiping out our economy....someday the trucks will NOT be rolling into town with tons of fresh food. We will be fighting in the streets for potatoes just like everywhere else on the globe has, in the last 100 years, been fighting for the last potatoe. If you don't have local production, no amount of money can make food appear.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 04:02 PM on 06/09/2008
- altohone See Profile I'm a Fan of altohone permalink


The number should factor in the known health benefits from gardening.

It is proven to reduce stress in addition to fulfilling some of the exercise requirements.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 02:44 PM on 06/09/2008
- blaqntelligence See Profile I'm a Fan of blaqntelligence permalink

Many of us do these things for more than a dollar for dollar savings.
I grow my own vegetables, am planning for a chicken coop next year for eggs and meat and a pond for fish.
I am a diehard city dweller who find immense satisfaction in eating what I produce and know it's healthy.
I make my own clothes. As a 6 foot tall 140 lb woman there aren't many stores where I can shop on a moderate budget and find stylsih clothes that fit.
Making them fits the bill.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 02:20 PM on 06/09/2008
- Cathexis See Profile I'm a Fan of Cathexis permalink

I believe the "Time is Money" meme is a bit of a canard -- time is only money if you would otherwise be expending that time in the corresponding money-making pursuit. My time might technically be worth $50/hour ... but my compensation is salaried, I get my regular salary whether I spend 40 hours a week or 80 ... additional hours won't get me any more money. If I save 10 hours a week by not gardening, I may have more leisure time, but I won't be making an extra $500 a week.

    Favorite    Flag as abusive Posted 01:16 PM on 06/09/2008
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