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Lesley M. M. Blume

Lesley M. M. Blume

Posted: October 30, 2010 09:52 AM

*Scroll down for the complete slideshow from LIFE.com*

In 2007, we launched on this site a column called Lets' Bring Back -- which has, over the past three years, celebrated hundreds of forgotten-yet-delightful fashions, pastimes, objects, and personalities.

On November 1, 2010, Let's Bring Back will make its debut as a book -- and in honor of its release, the Huffington Post's Style section will spotlight ten historical style icons featured in the book's pages.

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Many of these tastemakers, designers, and muses are now unjustly fading from public memory. Once you've spent some time with them, you'll agree that each of these women deserves to remain in the limelight.

After all, fashion is fleeting, but true style glimmers forever.

Our first ICON OF STYLE profile on performer Josephine Baker created quite a splash, and then many of you "met" brilliant hat designer Lilly Daché, our second ICON OF STYLE subject. Our third subject, Surrealist designer Elsa Schiaparelli, was once as dominant in the fashion industry as her then-rival Coco Chanel. This past weekend, we celebrated screen siren and war heroine Marlene Dietrich. And earlier this week, the world's first supermodel, Suzy Parker, activist heiress Nancy Cunard, and the Marchesa Casati, artists' muse and high priestess of eccentricity, resurfaced to dazzle the masses.

Since this is Halloween weekend, we thought this would be the perfect time to showcase a costume designer. However, Edith Head is no run-of-the-mill Hollywood costumer: many argue that she is the most important and famous costume designer of all time. Responsible for some of the most memorable film wardrobes in history (her credits included Vertigo, Sabrina, and Sunset Boulevard, to name but a few), Head was nominated for dozens of Oscars throughout her career.

For millions of American women, Edith Head became the authority on what was chic, what was of the moment, and how to wear it: she was every bit as influential as her fashion editor counterparts in New York City.

She also dispensed her advice to women across the country through newspaper and magazine articles, radio and television shows, and two bestselling books. Read her savvy, still-relevant bon mot-like tips below.

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The following excerpt is from Let's Bring Back (Chronicle Books, November 1):


EDITH HEAD (1897-1981)


Legendary costume designer, Ms. Head--aka the "Dress Doctor"--was as glamorous as the stars she dressed, and she dressed countless major Old Hollywood stars in some of their most memorable roles. If you loved Grace Kelly's iconic look in Rear Window or Audrey Hepburn's lavish wardrobe in Funny Face, one of Hollywood's ultimate fashion movies, take your hat off to Edith.

The winner of eight Oscars (she was nominated for an astonishing thirty-four), Ms. Head also had a heavy appetite for glamour and absolutely heaped it on the stars of Notorious, All About Eve, and over four hundred other films. ("I've designed films I've never seen," she once admitted.)

On the flamboyance of the times, Ms. Head once described Old Hollywood as a "Barnum & Bailey World," filled with gold bathtubs, ermine bathrobes, and film actresses draped in satins and minks. "I caught the flavor and the fever," she recalled.

Ms. Head's snippets of advice and witticisms were as closely heeded as those attributed to Coco Chanel, and they remain relevant today:

• "You can have anything you want in life if you dress for it."
• "Life is competition; clothes gird us for the competition."
• "The cardinal sin is not being badly dressed, but wearing the right thing in the wrong place."
• "Your dresses should be tight enough to show you're a woman and loose enough to prove you're a lady."
• "Clothes not only can make the woman; they can make her several different women."
• "I say sacrifice style any day for becomingness."

Photos courtesy of LIFE.com.

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circa 1955: Portrait of Hollywood fashion designer Edith Head (1897 - 1981) posing with six of her Oscars for Costume Design. Head was Fashion Chief at Paramount Pictures. She wears her trademark dark, round-rimmed sunglasses.
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BUY THE BOOK: Click here to purchase Let's Bring Back.

Follow Let's Bring Back on Twitter: @LetsBringBack

For publicity inquiries, please contact April Whitney at Chronicle Books: April_Whitney@chroniclebooks.com


 
 
 

Follow Lesley M. M. Blume on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lesleymmblume

*Scroll down for the complete slideshow from LIFE.com* In 2007, we launched on this site ...
*Scroll down for the complete slideshow from LIFE.com* In 2007, we launched on this site ...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
babyboomerorig
We are women, hear us roar!
12:13 PM on 11/01/2010
Before the credits even ran, you knew when and Edith Head design was used....a real geneous in the industry.
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FTracy3
My micro-bio is as empty as the rest of my life.
11:03 PM on 10/31/2010
Initially she was looked down on by "real" designers as she had worked her way up through the studio from a lower position. But she was smart and designed clothes that weren't trendy so that the films would stand up over time. Hitchcock used her on several films.
10:30 PM on 10/31/2010
I had the fortune of meeting her in 1980 when I was a young production assistant at 20th Century Fox.
Although most pictures of her show her looking quite serious and not smiling, I learned that she was quite charming, friendly and easy to talk to.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
anastasiabeaverhousen
Time wounds all heels
06:40 PM on 10/31/2010
She was an AMAZING talent and contributed so very much to the wonderful movies from that era. The world would have been somewhat duller without her designs.
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longtalldrink
Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you wan
05:06 PM on 10/31/2010
Sometimes I would watch a film I never heard of, just because I would see "fashions by Edith Head and make up by Wally Westmore"...I knew I was going to be seeing something special and timeless.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Hardyman1966
The antonym of liberal is INTOLERANT.
04:49 PM on 10/31/2010
Is there any doubt that Edith Head IS Mrs. Hogenson from "The Incredibles"? :)
04:45 PM on 10/31/2010
I loved her and her own personal style! I like the photo of her with folded arms in front of her Oscars, as if saying" Yeah, I'm bad, and their mine!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
exilist
04:15 PM on 10/31/2010
not too smiley was she?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
topkatnc
Give a stray cat or dog a chance .
08:28 PM on 10/31/2010
No , she was not ! ... you hit that nail on the head !.
10:33 PM on 10/31/2010
I just found this comment after posting mine (see above) No she didn't smile for the camera but she was very charming and friendly in person.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
theredqueen
Some days I can't spell.
03:37 PM on 10/31/2010
I would like, no love, a retrospective book or blog or what not of designer Jean Louis' astounding creativity. Think Novak in Bell Book and Candle and other films far too numerous to mention. He was a creative genius and was not derivative in design as others were.
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longtalldrink
Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you wan
05:05 PM on 10/31/2010
Those hot, red shoes Kim wore, were ALL that.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
Sysaphean
12:57 PM on 10/31/2010
A brilliantly creative woman, whose costume contributions to the look and feel of American films in the 20th century was unequaled then and now.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
naschkatze
A free man creates himself.
12:04 PM on 10/31/2010
Knowing she had done the costumes for a movie made me want to see it.
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ramal
One's only real life is the life one never leads.
09:04 AM on 10/31/2010
Edith Head gives good gown.
08:59 AM on 10/31/2010
Hate that photo application.

Edith Head can be likened to Margo Fonteyn. Still famous and top of their arts at the time, but now when one looks back on their work, they simply don't measure up in the same way.

As a ballet fan, I remember the oohs and aahs over Margot Fonteyn; now when I watch Svetlana Zakharova, then Margot Fonteyn, there is no comparison. Margot didn't have a quarter of Svetlana's talent.

The same can be said of Edith Head. One looks at her designs now and ho hum comes to mind.

But Helen Rose, she designed probably the most beautiful wedding dress ever: Princess Grace's.
02:25 PM on 10/31/2010
Ho hum also comes to mind when looking at a Chanel-style suit or a split-level ranch style house a la Frank Lloyd Wright. And therein lies precisely their success: things that were radical in their day have become so deeply ingrained in our culture that they now seem commonplace and pedestrian. We wonder why any one batted an eyelash at them. This is the mark of a truly legendary designer.
08:04 PM on 10/31/2010
Frank Lloyd Wright was radical for his day, so was Chanel.

But Margot Fonteyn, not so much -- not at all in fact. She was simply the lucky recipient of a static star system.

The ballet steps are the same; the individual talents now much, much greater, particularly Svetlana Zakharov.
08:08 PM on 10/31/2010
Oh I forgot Edith Head. Radical or different. No. Nothing new or spectacular. Never did understand how she rose to so much fame. Cornered market perhaps.
11:23 PM on 10/30/2010
What a wonderful tribute. I just concluded a sold-out Ovation Recommended run of my play
A CONVERSATION WITH EDITH HEAD at the El Portal in North Hollywood.

Thank you for this post and
helping to keep the legacy alive!
Susan claassen
A CONVERSATION WITH EDITH HEAD
http://www.edithhead.biz
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Hardyman1966
The antonym of liberal is INTOLERANT.
05:11 PM on 10/31/2010
You absolutely CAN'T be a zero, so it's been remedied! I would have loved to have made up there to see it! Has it been taped or will it head to San Diego?
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srivers
"Honesty is the best politics." - Stan Laurel
11:01 PM on 10/30/2010
Long live Edith Head!