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Lesley M. M. Blume

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ICON OF STYLE SERIES: Lilly Daché (PHOTOS)

Posted: 10/19/2010 11:23 am

*Scroll down for the full slideshow*

In 2007, we launched on this site a column called Lets' Bring Back -- which has, over the past three years, celebrated hundreds of forgotten-yet-delightful fashions, pastimes, objects, and personalities.

On November 1, 2010, Let's Bring Back will make its debut as a book -- and in honor of its release, the Huffington Post's Style section will spotlight ten historical style icons featured in the book's pages.

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Over the next two weeks, you will become reacquainted with some of the twentieth century's seminal tastemakers, designers, and muses -- many of whom are now unjustly fading from public memory. Once you've spent some time with them, you'll agree that each of these women deserves to remain in the limelight.

After all, fashion is fleeting, but true style glimmers forever.

Our first ICON OF STYLE profile on Josephine Baker created quite a splash over the weekend.

Our second ICON OF STYLE, designer Lilly Daché, was equally influential in her day. While she personally may not have had the visibility that Ms. Baker enjoyed, Ms. Daché shaped the way an entire generation of women adorned themselves. A pre-eminent mid-century hat maker, Ms. Daché dressed that era's stars and became synonymous with a delightful accessory that, like Ms. Daché, deserves a comeback. Read on.

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The following excerpt is from Let's Bring Back (Chronicle Books, November 1):

LILLY DACHÉ (c. 1893-1989)


French-born Lilly Daché was the most celebrated milliner in the United States during the 1930s and '40s -- a time when hats were the centerpieces of a woman's wardrobe. As The New York Times noted in Daché's obituary, during the Depression, "women with limited funds tended to buy new hats instead of new clothes. In the 1940s clothing fabric was in restricted supply because of World War II, and hats continued in demand because they were showy."

Daché's wildly creative hat designs were coveted by all fashion-minded females and touted as status objets by practically every major movie star of the day, including Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Carmen Miranda, and Jean Harlow.

Like so many fashion industry powerhouse doyennes of her era, Daché was a rags-to-riches icon: arriving in America in 1924 with thirteen dollars in her pocket (or so the story goes), she saw a sign in a window on a shop on Broadway saying "Milliner Wanted," and history was set in motion. She eventually bought the shop from the owner, and soon became a household name across the country.

Daché could be as flamboyant as some of her designs; according to one of her biographers, Daché often conducted business from her bed, "dictating letters, buying supplies, designing, and interviewing employees while wrapped in a leopard-skin rug." Sometimes meetings were held in her bathroom, where Daché would give orders from a deep bubble bath. Brunette celebrities were guided to a fitting room decorated in shimmering silver; blonde clients were ushered into a dressing room of gleaming gold. Wholesalers were treated to a circular room swathed in tufted pink satin. Bells adorned Daché's leopard-skin slippers, perhaps "to warn her girls of her approach, a job later undertaken by her armful of jingling bangles."

Such ladies usually are the best perpetuators of their own self-crafted legends; so let's finish up with one of Daché's more famous exclamations:

"I like beautiful shoes in gay colors, with thick platforms and high heels. I like splashy jewelry that clinks when I walk, and I like my earrings big. I am Lilly Daché, milliner de luxe."

(Photos courtesy of LIFE.com and Associated Press. To see more of LIFE.com's collection of Lilly Daché images, click here.)

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Supremely stylish.
In an image used for a 1937 cover of LIFE magazine, a model wears an intricate, romantic veiled hat designed by Lilly Daché. The French-born Daché emigrated to the United States in 1924, and -- whipping up dreamy creations from her New York City salon, in demand by stars including Marlene Dietrich and Carole Lombard -- she became the most famous hatmaker of her day. (Photo: Photo: Alfred Eisenstaedt/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Courtesy of LIFE.com)
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BUY THE BOOK: Click here to purchase Let's Bring Back.

Follow Let's Bring Back on Twitter: @LetsBringBack

For publicity inquiries, please contact April Whitney at Chronicle Books: April_Whitney@chroniclebooks.com


 
 
 

Follow Lesley M. M. Blume on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lesleymmblume

 
 
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QueenNewsBee
@ThrftyVntgChc or Facebook.com/thriftyvintagechic
02:41 PM on 10/21/2010
I tip my hat to her!! Because of the eras' craze for hats, I get to be a hat maven myself ... with now more than 50 vintage pieces to my collection, which I wear on a daily basis. Here's a sneak peak to how/when I wear my vintage hats:
http://robinesque.wordpress.com
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texastrixie
I invented the internet.
11:04 AM on 10/21/2010
As the huge number of Boomer women age, there may actually be a resurgence in hats. As our hair thins, unless you want to put in extensions of some kind, you might not always want to deal with your thinning locks. Just think, all we have to do is bring back hats, and you can simply put a hat on your head, and go. Besides, some of these hats you could actually copy with only a little sewing (the big bow hat for sure).
11:38 AM on 10/20/2010
i'm really loving this series of articles!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
JEFFYBRUCE
seasoned fashion veteran and writer
07:44 AM on 10/20/2010
FOR MORE ON THE SUBJECT OF FADED FASHION ICONS ...YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSULT http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=142540789110932
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Siren Song
Extinction is forever
01:19 AM on 10/20/2010
Thank you for featuring another icon whose name rarely comes up these days. She simply dripped in chic, didn't she? I'm especially smitten with the honey/cognac colored number--just luscious.
07:13 PM on 10/19/2010
Excellent ...A star known for her exquisite work not for her tawdry private life.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
anastasiabeaverhousen
Time wounds all heels
07:10 PM on 10/19/2010
Nothing lowers my blood pressure more than a 1930/40's movie! The costumes were sometimes better than the dialog!

Is there anything you can't find on ebay?!?!

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=dache+hat&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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MadMaddie
Saucy strawberry blonde
07:20 PM on 10/19/2010
Oh KareBear,
Nothing lowers blood pressure more than a pitcher of pills and blood in your alcohol stream!
... but seriously,
clothes (especially the shoes) and hairstyles from the 1930's/40's rawwwwwck!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
anastasiabeaverhousen
Time wounds all heels
07:23 PM on 10/19/2010
Well, there is THAT little factoid!!!

Smooch!
01:32 PM on 10/19/2010
Aretha Franklin must have been channeling Ms. Daché at the Inauguration in 2008!!!
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
teachpeace
The sun shines for you today,
01:22 PM on 10/19/2010
May I recommend an excellent Milliner?
Her name is Della Goheen, out of Olympia, Washington.
Met her at an Arts Festival.
She created a beautiful "mother of the bride" hat for me this past summer.
Check her out!
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BlueZoo
Independent voter, Independent thinker!
11:00 AM on 10/19/2010
Years ago, I found a Lily Dache hat at a garage sale and bought it immediately! It's a gorgeous cream cloche with a black veil and I wear it every chance I get, which isn't very often; however, I am always complimented on it. Men, in particular, seem to like it. I always feel abit mysterious and a little like Marlene Dietrich when I wear it and I'm sipping on a martini! There's an allure and cache about hats that we've lost and I so wish we'd get it back! There's a "finished" look to an outfit that includes a hat.
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johnnygoodwud
12:57 PM on 10/19/2010
nice post 'blue'. people today don't get dressed up like they used to. i was watching a 40's movie the other day, and the guy was in english countryside, wearing a shirt and tie fly fishing!. some of us men appreciate a lady with a sense of her own style. very alluring. enyoy your hat and a nice dry martini.
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BlueZoo
Independent voter, Independent thinker!
10:48 AM on 10/20/2010
I am a TCM addict and I always look at the clothes. Nothing was more dashing that seeing Cary Grant in an ascot or Kate Hepburn in "The Philadelphia Story" in those gorgeous gowns and hats. I do believe some men today appreciate a woman with a sense of style. Where we women have gone astray is believing the ad hype that it takes money to dress stylishly. I recall a visit to my attorney's office where he told me I shouldn't dress so well when I appeared in court. I laughed after I informed him that my slacks came from Penney's, my blouse from Goodwill and I had owned my sweater for over 20 years! Parisian women have this knack of dressing well on little money down to a science and we can learn a lot from them! btw: A "nice dry martini" is my ONLY cocktail!
02:56 PM on 10/19/2010
hats, gloves and scarfs! Love wearing them, and always feel "done" when I do.
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
theredqueen
True friends stab you in the front. Oscar Wilde
10:35 AM on 10/19/2010
Wearing a hat used to be such fun. I'll never forget buying a "cocktail" hat in black satin and lovely netting in a store in London. I was concerned about how it looked and I told the saleslady that I wasn't sure that it was really "me" She said "my dear no one should buy a hat that was simply "them". I bought it and loved that hat for years. Wish I still had it. Ages ago of course.
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David Keith
Dogs are the best people.
10:28 AM on 10/19/2010
Never heard of LILLY DACHÉ. Thanks for filling in that gap of my knowledge. Some wonderful designs. Especially the very first photo. Women's style of the 30s and 40s were a beautiful peak in women's style. Wish we had Lilly today.
09:24 AM on 10/19/2010
I'm not a natural hat-wearer. You basically either have it or not. But, I am a secret admirer of hats. I can't pull it off, but I adore seeing those who can.

What beautiful hats these are! To me, that was the golden age of hats.

I find hats with veils to be ultra-sexy, and if I were to wear a hat, I'd hie to the closest good quality consignment shop and find a beautiful hat with a veil.
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awarg
09:41 AM on 10/19/2010
I'm with you, bisbie! A lady wasn't complete until she donned her hat! A veil always mistifies!