The air of adventure in El Chaltén, Argentina, is palpable. How could one not feel it,
when the town itself is cradled in the midst of some of the most impressive mountain
scenery this side of the Equator? And in the distance looms a whole line of magnificent,

Salar de Uyuni: the largest salt flat on earth. And a showcase of Bolivia at its most barren and uninhabitable. It is enchanting.

South of the salar too exists a dream landscape of lagoons, volcanoes and dry harsh desert. What you see is incredible, bleak and vibrant, pastel and...

It's hot and the air is thick with dust illuminated by the strong beam of your headlamp. You can't breathe, but you can't let the claustrophobia get the best of you either. You endure.

You're stumbling through still, dense tunnels studded with yellow-tinged stalactites, treading lightly on planks perched...