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Malcolm Levene

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The Intuitive Tailor

Posted: 09/02/2010 8:39 pm

This blog was inspired by a friend who asked me to help him to purchase a suit. Clothes, fabric, style and design are attached to my DNA, so to speak. The kind of DNA I'm referring to is Design, Nuance and Attractiveness. These three characteristics are what make any clothing item truly desirable. In addition, they can affect how the wearer feels in an item of clothing.

When I was a lad I used to visit my father's tailoring shop every Sunday, which was located smack in the middle of Brick Lane, east London. In those days the street was the epicentre of London Jewry. It was littered with kosher butchers, fabric emporiums, bakeries and a Yiddish theatre. Dad's shop, "Russell Sinclair," named after my middle name and his partner's son's middle name, struck a distinctive note where the shop front awnings were occupied by Rosenberg, Levy, Shmulovitch and Bernstein.

Dad instinctively knew how to design a pair of trousers that would look great and as importantly, felt great to wear. He intuitively knew how to cut a precise pattern for them and did so with flair and apparent ease. Many years ago I recall walking along Kings Road, Chelsea, wearing a pair of green gabardine bell bottoms my father made for me. Strangers approached me, asking where I had purchased my trousers. They were that good. Had it not been for the choice of fabric, the cut and fit, they would have been just another pair of ordinary trousers. Whenever I wore them I felt confident, stylish and as if I was just a little special. That's how well designed clothes can make you feel. They can lift your spirits and buoy your self confidence.

Nuance is not something on which our current culture seems to focus, particularly when it comes to fashion and clothing design. However, nuance is critical in any design that is likely to have longevity, be that a building or a suit. One of the dictionary's synonyms for nuance is "refinement", a perfect description for the kind of attire I'm referring to. And when one wears clothes that are refined, that's exactly how we feel - refined. Furthermore, when we act and communicate in a refined fashion, the combination of that inner and outer refinement is a winning formula; it also promotes feelings of greater self esteem.

In order for anything to have the word attractiveness attributed to it, it must have eye appeal which is produced primarily by visual stimuli. This is often prompted by a gut feeling - you see something and for reasons you can't explain, you are drawn to it. On the day I helped my friend to buy a suit my eye was taken by a single sleeve that hung in the middle of about a dozen others. The way the fabric of the sleeve almost glistened, its iridescence, drew me to it. The sleeve draped softly the way quality fabrics tend to, that's when I knew that my friend would look great in it and feel great wearing it. And as soon as he tried the jacket on and felt the soft fabric slip over his shoulders, he smiled. When he looked at the jacket in the mirror, his smile widened, he stood straighter, held his head higher and we both knew he'd found his suit. It was as if the DNA of the suit matched his DNA.

Here's how you can find a good DNA match:

Design:

  • Look for simplicity. Less is more.
  • Avoid additional design features, such as zips that don't work or additional buttons that have no practical use.
  • If you don't feel you have an eye for clothes design, find something else that resonates with you visually and use those elements to inform your clothing choices.

Nuance:

  • If any clothing item you try on says more about the clothing than about you, think again.
  • If you decide to enlist the help of a Personal Shopper, be sure she or he feels, looks and sounds right for you.
  • If the item looks as though it's of the moment or trendy, know that it won't have longevity.

Attractiveness:

  • If you feel as though you are more attractive when you try on a new clothing item, it's an indication that you are making a good choice.
  • When your eye is almost magnetically drawn to something, acknowledge that and investigate further.
  • Be open to new visual experiences, which at first may seem different, yet are likely to widen your ideas about what you find visually attractive.

 
 
 

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01:27 PM on 09/06/2010
Malcolm

I love your description of Brick Lane - really evocative of that period.

As someone who does not have much 'instinct' for clothes I found your post most interesting. I tend to dress quite conservatively and at moderate price, using mainly High Street stores. I have found that I feel most comfortable in a suit or a jacket and tie - or for 'smart casual' an informal jacket and open neck shirt. I have learned from experience to shun anything too trendy - it may work for some but not for me. I was interested to see that you mention clothes that are "of the moment" which may lack longevity.

I think you give sound and useful advice, as always in your posts. I particularly appreciate your observation that clothing should say something about the person wearing it. Sometimes I think people identify themselves far too closely with 'labels'.

So, I now know certain combinations seen to work for me, (e.g. dark suit but with a bright silk tie - people tell me I look good!) and because of that I might be accused justifiably of 'playing it safe' with my choice of attire. I have made some disasterous choices in the past!

Thanks for really good guidance to those of us whose 'DNA' factor could do with a boost!
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Malcolm Levene
01:58 PM on 09/07/2010
Thanks for comment, Adrian.

I think 'playing it safe' is much better than taking risks when it comes to one's image. It also prevents us from making 'disasterous choices.'

Good luck boosting your DNA!
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theredqueen
True friends stab you in the front. Oscar Wilde
12:46 PM on 09/06/2010
My mother was originally an East Ender from well before WW11. White Horse Lane - as I remember her saying and very much at the bottom rung of the ladder. Her sister was a great dressmaker and I have pictures of my mother wearing some of her creations taken in the twenties and thirties. Simple and chic and understated. My father used to have a tailor in the East End and although he didn't have a lot of suits they all fit beautifully and lasted aeons. I laughed at myself when you mentioned buttons that have no particular use as I just bought a designer suit with a jacket that has just those types of buttons. I live and learn. Thanks for your good tips on elegant and refined dressing.
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Malcolm Levene
01:59 PM on 09/06/2010
Thank you for such thoughtful comments - I love it when people write comments that 'feel' connected to a post. That's what I call elegant...

I hope my tips are helpful when you next go clothes shopping.

By the way, both your parents sound as though they were rather elegant.
05:42 AM on 09/06/2010
Hi Malcolm,

As the friend who inspired your post, it would be remiss of me not to comment…

It’s a treat to be able to read your thoughts and reflect on the things that were obviously going through your head as we strolled down Savile Row together.

It’s a long time since I felt the need (or desire) to wear a decent suit for work and whilst I would have been happy to walk into any off the peg retailer, I was unsure (and if I’m honest slightly intimidated) at the prospect of visiting ‘The Row’ in my jeans and t-shirt. I asked for your recommendation and was delighted when instead of simply saying, “Try xyz Tailors…” you said, “I’ll come with you and we’ll find your suit.” I would never have found it without you.

Your post tells the tale very well – it’s very considered. The days of your youth, the learning from experience and best of all, a happy ending – my suit is fabulous. I don’t know how I managed without it, or why I asked for your help. Maybe, like your Dad, I just “instinctively knew.” Thank you.

Scot McKee
Managing Director – http://www.birddog.co.uk
Author, ‘Creative B2B Branding (no, really)’ http://ht.ly/2zZeg
Twitter: @scotmckee
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Malcolm Levene
01:36 PM on 09/06/2010
Thanks for comment, Scot.

So pleased you are happy with your suit.

I really enjoyed our time together. Strolling down 'The Row' that day took me back to my youth, and the days of being carefree. Maybe we should do it again sometime... I love happy endings!
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thinkingwomanmillstone
great, green, globs of greasy grimey GOPerspeak.
10:20 PM on 09/05/2010
Lost me when comfort didn't hit the top 3.
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Malcolm Levene
04:33 AM on 09/06/2010
Thanks for reminding me. Of course, 'comfort' is important. I've said it so many times, I guess I take it for granted (wrongly) that people who are familar with my work, would know that about me. Big lesson, never take anything for granted...
08:37 PM on 09/05/2010
I just love reading your post especially when it's coming from your designer's intuitive side as I can relate tremendously. I think dressing oneself should be an art and it contributes a lot in making the first important impression of a person. You are your own finest creation. I strongly agree you should find a good DNA match for the clothes you choose to wear.
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Anne Naylor
Celebrant, Weddings and Other Blessings
10:34 AM on 09/03/2010
Great article, Malcolm, thank you! I am inspired.... I love the ideas you present here - make so much sense to me.

Best,
Anne
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Malcolm Levene
01:50 PM on 09/03/2010
Thanks, Anne.

So pleased you are inspired. As importantly, that you think my ideas 'make sense', really inspires me!

Best,

Malcolm
05:22 AM on 09/03/2010
Great post Malcolm. Chock full of good information and loved the bit about the Brick Lane
of the past and your father's shop.

I can imagine you walking along the King's Road in those bell bottoms!
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Malcolm Levene
09:36 AM on 09/03/2010
Glad you enjoyed the post, Kate.

Oh, those bell bottoms, when I think of them, I'm reminded of a time in my life, that feels like it was somebody elses life, not mine.