iPhone app iPad app Android phone app Android tablet app More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Marcus Samuelsson

GET UPDATES FROM Marcus Samuelsson
 

Everybody's Talking About Food

Posted: 04/12/10 11:41 AM ET

I have cooked and been involved with food almost all of my life, and I can't imagine a more exciting time to be a chef than now. The dialogue and conversation about food is everywhere--television, chat rooms, social media outlets and among everyday conversations. I had the opportunity to cook at the White House last fall for the first Obama State Dinner with the Prime Minster of India and his wife, and a few weeks ago, I cooked for Michelle Obama again. I'm so completely inspired by the work she's doing. She's putting the conversation of making better food choices at the forefront of the American consciousness and showing us that we all have a role to play in this effort--from chefs, parents, kids, farmers, school administrators, food companies, ad agencies, etc.

When I was growing up in Sweden (I was born in Ethiopia, orphaned as a baby and adopted by a Swedish couple), my grandmother made almost all of her food from scratch. It was natural for her to follow the seasons, allowing her food to be dictated by the produce available in the market. We ate our food three ways: fresh, pickled and preserved. Going into her house, you would've thought she was running a little canning factory.

Between the ages of six and nine, my palette was taking shape as well as my identity as a chef. It was then that I learned the difference between salty, sweet, sour and even spicy. At the time, I was unaware that the process of cooking and using food in the way we did at my grandmother's house in a small industrial city in Sweden would become completely chic and modern in New York City 30 years later. It's now become cool to take a class on pickling in your free time and know what's in season in your area.

My other window into food is what my relatives in Ethiopia are eating. Spices, of course, are essential. They are also constantly preserving foods like my Swedish grandmother did but drying instead of canning or jarring. This method allows for constant nutrition in an often unstable economic situation.

In Ethiopia, 2010-04-10-Samuelsson_AmericanTable_3.jpgfood is often looked at through a strong spiritual lens, stronger than anywhere else I know. It's the focal point of weddings, births and funerals and is a daily ceremony from the preparation of the meal and the washing of hands to the sharing of meals.

As I prepare to open the Red Rooster in Harlem in the fall of 2010, I think a lot about how food will affect my community, a neighborhood that has been starved of the amenities that are readily available to the rest of the city. Harlem has a rich cultural history and vibrant community, and Red Rooster is my way to give back to the neighborhood that's been my home for many years.

By opening the restaurant, we want to make sure it's affordable and offers fresh foods directly from nearby farms and food crafters, without alienating the community itself. I look forward to inviting children and budding chefs into our kitchens to teach them how to prepare great foods from wholesome ingredients and how to share that knowledge with their audience. I'm looking to contribute to a new landscape of food and dining in New York City and encourage New Yorkers to head north and discover Harlem.

Follow HuffPost Food on Twitter and Facebook!


 
 
 

Follow Marcus Samuelsson on Twitter: www.twitter.com/MarcusCooks

I have cooked and been involved with food almost all of my life, and I can't imagine a more exciting time to be a chef than now. The dialogue and conversation about food is everywhere--television, cha...
I have cooked and been involved with food almost all of my life, and I can't imagine a more exciting time to be a chef than now. The dialogue and conversation about food is everywhere--television, cha...
 
 
  • Comments
  • 35
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Bloggers
Recency  | 
Popularity
Page: 1 2  Next ›  Last »  (2 total)
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
commentsareus
12:17 AM on 04/20/2010
Good sport or win at all cost? Hmmmm...
06:59 AM on 04/16/2010
As much as I try to buy local, etc., and as big a fan as I am of the "real food" movement, I do sometimes wonder, with many twinges of guilt, if it is physically possible to raise enough food to feed the world's population without the factory farms, etc. I mean, we're not doing that good a job at it even WITH the factory-farm methods. Is there a way to reverse the trend without forcing large numbers of people back to farming jobs? Or without allowing large portions of the world's population to starve?

I don't know. I have read detailed explanations of why it IS possible and other detailed explanations of why it is NOT possible. I wish I knew which data to trust.
05:11 PM on 04/15/2010
I spend much of my time in Croatia, where you can still eat the fish caught in the unpolluted Adriatic - and there's no surcharge on designated "organic" products, because everything already is. Eating apricots, figs, oranges right off the trees in nice, too - and free!
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
synaesthete
06:14 AM on 04/14/2010
There's a fast-food chain in Australia called Red Rooster. [/amusement]
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
GOODREASON
09:12 PM on 04/13/2010
Alice Waters of wonderful Chez Panisse in Berkely, California has been doing this for quite some time now. In California and in the USA she is known as the mother of natural and organic cooking. She has been teaching inner city kids how to grow and cook responsibly, to turn around the tide of unhealthy children and parents for quite some time now. I wonder if Michelle Obama is aware of this fabulous woman?
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
GOODREASON
08:58 PM on 04/13/2010
"a neighborhood that has been starved of the amenities that are readily available to the rest of the city". Uh, do you mean some group has purposely starved this neighborhood? If that neighborhood had a taste for fresh, healthy food it would have been avaialble for sale. What the market bears, will be sold. Hopefully this chef will be able to educate this neighborhood as to a more healthy, european diet. Good luck to him and to his pricing.
04:20 PM on 04/13/2010
Interesting article, and I wish Marcus the best of luck.

In order to further his culinary development, or at least his culinary vocabulary, I shall provide him with a key "ingredient": It's "palate" and not "palette"!

The former is, as he would like to imply, a metaphor for taste, derived from early thinking that the palate or roof of the mouth was the seat of the sense of taste.

The latter is the device for holding an artist's colors - specifically oil paints - that also has a metaphorical extension as the artist's characteristic coloristic style, or "palette." Of course a chef could use it to mean his characteristic ouevre, but that's not consistent with Marcus's context of being a boy of six. "Palate" is, and that's what he apparently meant to say.

Bonne chance, Marcus, et bon appétit!
06:30 PM on 04/13/2010
*rolls eyes*
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
eichler1
03:46 PM on 04/13/2010
The local food thing has gotten big here in Cali, too. Difference is, parts of our state have year-round growing season, so while there definitely are seasons (e.g. naval orange high season is winter-early spring), we have produce abundance year round. I grew up eating a salad every night at dinner year-round. The lettuce was grown in the Salinas Valley.

I've never been fond of going through the grocery store and seeing produce from other continents, brought in just so we don't have to eat seasonally (which, again, presents few inconveniences here in Cali). I do not understand how it is economical to pack and ship in an airplane delicate fruits like strawberries -- without some sort of subsidy or at least forbearance regarding the social cost (pollution, etc).

Thank goodness as a society we're finally realizing that "globalization" is not a suitable goal in all cases. Long live the local/ organic food movement. Let's bring that to as many products and services as we can.
03:04 PM on 04/13/2010
nice heads-up, marcus! will definitely check out your Red Rooster in harlem.
02:49 PM on 04/13/2010
yeah, I grew up eating Portuguese peasant food in Marin County. It was a little embarrassing, but delicious, and now, ta dah! I'm like, in the know because I like collards?!
so...I think it's a little funny, but good that people are thinking and talking more about healthy foods, and maybe even growing some of their own.
I liked this article : )
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
sonoffestus
Got smart & got out!
02:45 AM on 04/15/2010
Portuguese food is some of the best ever, octopus in brown sauce over boiled potatos, a nice full bodied red wine and then..................a nap. Oh, how I miss Antonio's Cafe in Lincoln, RI. Portuguese pot roast, shrimp Mozambique and frango.

You had to mention Portuguese food. Clams and pork.......see what you started. I guess we'll just have to visit this year.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
smug-git
02:41 PM on 04/13/2010
it is not just convenience, but cost also. You simply can't sell a 75 count jumbo shrimp platter (see Wal-Mart or other big retailer) for $25 or so without mass producing it. Sadly, the entire cost is not reflected in the price: half of Chile's coastal reefs have been suffocated by detritus emptied from the giant shrimp farm tanks on the hillsides every few days, and no-one is really paying for it. Same as the $5 7lb whole chickens in the supermarket- environmental cost is not reflected in the price.

Of course if any says out loud: "americans need to pay more for their food" they would be laughed out of town or accused of being un-american...or lynched. Good food is the key to almost everything that is good- or at least bad food may the key to almost everything that is bad...
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
11:18 AM on 04/13/2010
Oh i hope he will have Kik Wot on the menu!
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
11:06 AM on 04/13/2010
I hope I am lucky enough to taste your food.

Thank you for the lovely post.
09:05 AM on 04/13/2010
I think this is all coming back to one simple change - the advent of convenience food. We're too busy, gotta shovel it down and get going, too much to do. Blue box, frozen this, microwave that.

Yet it takes roughly the same time to make a macaroni and cheese dish from scratch as it does to make one from a boxed mix. Involve/engage your kids in the cooking process, even small 'food prep' tasks like peeling vegetables can help us re-acquire healthy habits and connect us to each other as well as the food we eat.
10:41 AM on 04/13/2010
I agree. I think almost any home-made food is healthier than pre-packaged garbage. I have also found over the years that the less I focus on "nutrients" (i.e. how many fat grams, how much Vitamin C etc) and the more I just try to cook really yummy food, the heathier we all seem to be!
03:26 AM on 04/13/2010
I must add:

this reminds me of my approach and history with food and eating.

What you learn while growing forms intensively what your turn out to be. I always say, i thank my parents, my aunt and my grandmother greatly, because the spoiled the tongue and mind i use today. And these 2 form my demands when i sit at any table or any bar, or - of course - in any Coffee House.

Every child ought to be spoiled from day one: his mind, his body and his palate.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
zerotimes10
03:48 AM on 04/13/2010
I have no concrete ideas on this but I wonder how we could create jobs on this idea of eating healthy? It feels like a new industry could grow from this. If we ate better we might save money because we wouldn't be spending it on obesity. Maybe, we are entering a time where we look at how something "saves" us money, rather than "makes" us money. And perhaps it would be the gift that keeps on giving. Using Sun, Wind, Thermal, etc would go hand in hand in that too. Having said that, I personally feel that over population is a real threat to our survival. Thousands of people die everyday of starvation. Think about how awful that is? We're worried about eating well, while the rest of the world is worried about not eating at all. Then there's that whole terrorist getting a nuke thing. Ok, I've scared myself silly again. What a world.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
sonoffestus
Got smart & got out!
02:52 AM on 04/15/2010
One way to start would be to hire more school cooks and prepare REAL food for your kids.
It may cost more, but how much would you save as a nation in the long run if you had healthly kids, rather than fat and obese?

Just a thought...................
09:53 AM on 04/13/2010
It makes you wonder, doesn't it?

What if your waiter/waitress exhibited manners in keeping with your table manners, slopping the food on your plate and treating you with neglect, as if they would rather be watching the TV, or have somewhere else to be?

What if your COOK did the same thing, exhibiting the 'eh, it's not important' attitude about cleanliness and food safety/preparation?

In a sense, we've already seen what's happened when regulatory agencies began slacking off on food inspections - a rash of e. coli and salmonella outbreaks.