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Notes from a Sommeliere -- Pet Peeves

Posted: 08/ 6/2008 5:51 pm

Lately there has been a deal of bitching and moaning http://www.slate.com/id/2191912/ about restaurant waitstaff and wine service.

Having been on both ends of the wine bottle (see my previous entry), I can tell you that the feeling is often mutual. If you ask restaurant wine staff for their pet peeves about customers, these are some of the things you'd hear:

They talk dry, but drink sweet.
People say, "I want a nice, dry white wine with these soft shell crabs." But when you bring them a tangy Sancerre and they taste it, they wrinkle their nose and make it clear that they what they want is something much sweeter. Like white Zinfandel.

Speaking of white Zinfandel...
I cannot tell you how many times I've heard, "how come you don't have any white Zinfandel on the wine list?" I'll tell you why: Zinfandel is a red wine.

"And bring me an ice bucket."
Most white wine served straight from the refrigerator is already way too cold. You need to let it warm up for a few minutes to be able to taste it properly. Asking for an ice bucket when the wine is already the temperature of a frozen ice pop does not make you look cool. It tells everyone that you are a wine newbie.

Sommeliers don't have to look like dead presidents.
Nowadays, your sommelier many very well be young, female, a person of color or all of the above. So, please don't ask me to send out the sommelier. I am the sommelier. (Actually, I am the sommeliere, but we need not go into the gender of French nouns.)

"How did you become a somm?"
I studied for it. In my previous careers, no one ever asked me how I got an MBA in Finance or an MA in Linguistics. But show them you know something about wine, and they think you had a private audience with the god Bacchus.

"I don't want to sound like a wine snob, but..."
When the good old boy finally figures out that his sommelier is a woman, he will often feel the need to show off his wine erudition. Sorry fellas, it does not impress me, especially when you mispronounce Duval Leroy. (No, it's not Lee-Roy!)

Brand name Champagne.
The reason that the Champagnes you see in the media are the most expensive is not necessarily because they are the best. It's because they spend a fortune on advertising. If you really know Champagne, you know that some of the best are the ones you never heard of. (Henriot Brut Millesime, anyone?)

"I ordered Burgundy, how come it's white?"
Your burgundy tie may be purple, but the Burgundy region of France makes wine in two colors, red and white. (For those of you keeping score at home, the red is Pinot Noir and the white is Chardonnay).

Speaking of Chardonnay...
When I suggest a good unoaked Oregon Chardonnay to go with a seafood dish, I often hear, "I don't like Chardonnay." Buy a clue: What you don't like is the cheap, oak chip-soaked, artificially sweetened Chardonnay that you've been drinking. Try spending a few more dollars per bottle and you'll find that you like Chardonnay just fine.

Take your time ordering wine.
But don't linger over the wine list for half an hour. Tell me what you like in a wine and I will suggest something for you.

Order an expensive bottle and send it back.
Nothing says "arrogant poseur" like someone who orders an expensive bottle, takes a big slug and sends it back, claiming the wine is "off." Especially if it's not.

Smell the cork.
When you rent a bicycle, do you smell the seat? If I hand you a cork and it's mushy, then you should smell it. Otherwise, just finger it and put it down.

"I'll pour the wine myself."
That's fine for most somms, as it takes the pressure off us. But don't whine that your servers neglected you and leave a niggling tip.

Complain about corkage fees.
Most restaurants, for obvious reasons, do not allow you to bring in a bottle that they already have on the wine list. And please do not bring that bottle of $5.99 plonk that you found in the bargain bin of the 24 -hour drug store, and then bitch about the $20 corkage fee.

I'm from the restaurant and I'm here to help you.
Unlike the government, I really do want to help you. I want your wine and dinner to sing in pure harmony. So take advantage of all the years of wine knowledge that I have and ask me questions. Just not dumb ones.

It felt really good to get all that snarking off my chest. Stay tuned for my next blog, when I return to my usual helpful persona.

 
Lately there has been a deal of bitching and moaning http://www.slate.com/id/2191912/ about restaurant waitstaff and wine service. Having been on both ends of the wine bottle (see my previous entry),...
Lately there has been a deal of bitching and moaning http://www.slate.com/id/2191912/ about restaurant waitstaff and wine service. Having been on both ends of the wine bottle (see my previous entry),...
 
 
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12:19 AM on 08/23/2008
you smell the cork to determine whether or not it has TCA. if it is contaminated then no need to taste or sniff further. but then maybe you have been taught by the uniformed.

ciao. i'm not logging in again.

do you feel better now?
03:25 PM on 08/22/2008
If this strikes you as mean, then you obviously haven't read my previous post, "You Have the Wine List Now What?" where I try to clue in all the clueless people about HOW TO DEAL WITH SOMMELIERS. And you obviously have not read my bio. Why don't you PM me so I can clue you in?
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Lauren Cahn
yoga chickie
02:56 PM on 08/18/2008
See, this just strikes me as kind of mean and makes me want to avoid restaurants where there IS a sommelier(e). Why not just order my wine from my waiter, rather than have someone stand there in judgement of everything I do and say with regard to my wine, which is really just, well, a beverage.

I know plenty of people with wine cellars, and I have been to my fair share of wine tastings. But I still couldn't tell you if I really know how to behave in a manner that won't invite sommelier ridicule.

Please don't take this as an insult, but it all kind of reminds me of an Absolutely Fabulous episode in which Edina is given "attitude" by a salesgirl. She turns to the girl and says, down her nose, in her upper crusty British accent, "You work in a SHOPPE."

I'm a yoga teacher, and sure, I have pet peeves about my students - and now that you've got me thinking about it, I think I will post about it soon. But most of my pet peeves involve students being rude in some way when it is clear that they should know better. I would never be peeved by a student who simply didn't know any better.

Here's a thought: if you live in my area, maybe we can trade lessons - I can teach you how to be a model yoga student, and you can teach me how to be a model wine-orderer.

Lauren
05:39 PM on 08/12/2008
- hope i am never a victim of the semi-knowlege displayed here.
- smell the cork. no need to proceed to put crap in your mouth if the cork is contaminated with TCA.
- ignorant sommeliers think i send a wine back to show off? i'm not interested in wasting my evening that way. the sommelier should be trained and capable of picking up cork taint. alas I've found many times they lack the ability and i'm stuck being the 'bad guy' who sends things back.
- i wouldn't smell a bicycle seat because i don't intend to put it in my mouth. i do intend to put my butt on the seat. therefore i'd test the seat by SITTING on it. how strange is that. i do intend to put a wine in my mouth, the wine has been in contact with the cork throughout its storage if properly cellared therefore, yes i do sniff the cork.
- if a wine list is long i read it all to find the hidden gems. i'm the one paying so why should i rush? Frankly many sommeliers haven't tasted through their restaurant's wine list (if its long) what they know is 'paper knowlege'. how brilliant is that? sommelier's act peeved when i've rejected their recommendation for one i know to be better. in the end even if they really think i should enjoy the Oregon chardonnay when i'm in the mood for gruner veltliner i am the CUSTOMER and they are
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Marlene Rossman
07:50 PM on 08/12/2008
Do you feel better now?
02:53 PM on 08/09/2008
Great post! I thoroughly enjoyed it. Looking forward to your next article!
04:45 PM on 08/09/2008
Thanks, LBTC!
I feel some snark brewing. (Fermenting?)
02:27 PM on 08/08/2008
Great post! I loved all the great tips for avoiding cultural mishaps regarding wine.

I was wondering if you might start a fairly regular post here about wine recommedations and tips. Like, "How to pick a Cab Sav" for example or "Great Pinots at Reasonable Prices"

I would love more posts exploring wine.

Salute :)
04:01 PM on 08/08/2008
Karlita, there are NO GREAT Pinots at reasonable prices. There's a reason that Domaine de la Romanée-Conti--Vintage 1990, 12 bottles Côte de Nuits, SET THE AUCTION RECORD FOR BURGUNDY at $252,000 or $21 THOUSAND DOLLARS A BOTTLE, it's other worldly.
Good Burgundy is never inexpensive and great Burgundy is well....

Try some Oregon Pinot Noir, such as Sineann, Lemelson and Patricia Green...less expensive
than Cali Pinot and a bit more Burgundian style in style.
02:39 PM on 08/10/2008
Sure there are great pinot's at reasonable prices. Don't buy into the more expensive, the better every time. I have worked with sommeliere's for over 10 years in my restaurant career. Most people who know a damn about wine know that when wine gets over a certain price range say, $300, its a joke. There are outstanding and mediocre wines out there that are very very overpriced. We used to say that most wines are comparable over around $70. You don't need to spend much more than that to enjoy yourself. NOW, if you want to get some attention- and you are more of a label wh#$re, spend to your heart's desire. But it is not necessary.
05:00 PM on 08/07/2008
"When you rent a bicycle, do you smell the seat? "

LOL!
07:30 PM on 08/07/2008
Well, do you?
12:12 PM on 08/07/2008
Good points. Most diners don't seem to realize there is a basic protocol for receiving ordered wine:

1. They will display the bottle, label-side out. Check the label on the proferred bottle -- verifies they are serving what you ordered.
2. If presented with the cork, give it a gentle squeeze. The goal: To verify there wasn't a problem with storage (e.g., the cork dried out or rotted). As Ms Rossman indicated: Don't sniff -- it isn't required to verify acceptabel quality.
3. When presented with the dash in a glass: You're goal is to verify that the wine hasn't gone bad in the bottle -- not whether you like it or not. This is not the time to come up with flowery adjectives or opinions. Merely verify that it hasn't gone to vinegar and it hasn't been corked (smells/tastes like cardboard). Take a sip (OK to breathe in aroma as the glass comes to your face -- note any off smells) and nod yoru acceptance. IF the wine is corked or vinegary, bring it to the attention of the individual serving the wine. If you taste it and don't care for the flavor -- tough. The only real reason to send a bottle back is if it went bad.
02:39 PM on 08/10/2008
Yes, excellent point.