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Why I'll Never Return To Vietnam

Posted: 01/30/2012 8:00 am

lake in vietnam with bonsaiTraveling through Southeast Asia, you are frequently asked where you are going. "Everywhere," I tell people. This is my last adventure through the region. Except, I'll be skipping Vietnam. After my experience there in 2007, I'll never go back to that country. Never, ever, ever. A business trip or a girlfriend may force me there in the future but for as long as I can see down the road, I'll never touch down again in that country.

No one ever wants to return to a place where they felt treated poorly. When I was in Vietnam, I was constantly hassled, overcharged, ripped off and mistreated. I never felt welcome.

I met street sellers who constantly tried to overcharge me. There was the bread lady who refused to give me back the proper change, the food seller who charged me triple even though I saw how much the customer in front of me paid, or the cabbie who rigged his meter on the way to the bus station. While buying t-shirts in Hoi An, three women tried to keep me in their store until I bought something, even if that meant pulling my shirt.

On a trip to Halong Bay, the tour operator didn't have water on the boat and the operator overbooked the trip, so people who paid for single rooms suddenly found themselves with roommates...sometimes in the same bed!

a rice paddy in vietnam


One of the worst experiences came while in the Mekong Delta. I was catching a bus back to Ho Chi Minh City. I was thirsty, so I bought a common drink in Vietnam - water, lemon, and some powdery, sugary substance in a plastic bag. You can find it everywhere, especially in transit stations. I went to the one next to the bus and pointed at what I wanted. She looked at me and nodded. The woman then started making this drink, turned to her friends, said something, laughed, then started laughing at me while clearly not putting in all the ingredients into this drink. I knew I was being blatantly ripped off.

"She's telling her friends she's going to overcharge and rip you off because you're white," said a Vietnamese American who was also on my bus. "She doesn't think you will notice." "

How much should this really cost?" I asked him. He told me. It was some tiny number -- a few cents. I gave the vendor the correct change, told her she was a bad person and walked away onto my bus. It wasn't the money that I was upset about but the disrespect and contempt she had for me.

I wondered if it was just me. Perhaps I simply had a bad experience and Vietnam was really great. The countryside is stunning and I can only imagine what it looked like before America napalmed most of it. Maybe I just had bad luck. Maybe I caught people on an off day. However, after talking to a number of other travelers, I realized that we all had the same story. They all had tales of being ripped off, cheated, or lied to. We all had to struggle for everything. We never felt welcome in the country.

Additionally, I witnessed other people having problems in Vietnam. I saw friends of mine getting ripped off. Once my friend bought bananas and the seller walked away before giving change back. At a supermarket, a friend was given chocolate instead of their change. Two of my friends lived in Vietnam for 6 months, and even they said the Vietnamese were rude to them despite becoming "locals." Their neighbors never warmed up to them. Wherever I went, it seemed my experience was the norm and not the exception.

the skyline of dalat vietnam


While in Nha Trang, I met an English teacher who had been in Vietnam for many years. He said that the Vietnamese are taught that all their problems are caused by the West, especially the French and Americans, and that the West "owes" Vietnam. They expect Westerners to spend money in Vietnam, so when they see western backpackers trying to penny pitch, they get upset and treat them poorly. Those who are spending money, however, seem to be treated quite well. I don't know if this is true or not but based on what I had seen and the experiences I had heard, it did make some sense.

Two friends were out eating once and a woman came riding up on a very nice looking bike. My friend Sean describes it as one of those Huffy mountain bikes you were always jealous your neighbor had as a kid. The woman locked up her bike and then proceeded to go around the restaurant asking for money. When she came to my friends, they asked the Vietnamese woman if she could afford such a nice bike, why couldn't she afford food? That's my sisters bike, the woman said. Sean looked at her and said "Then she can pay for your food."

I'm not here to make judgments about Vietnam or the Vietnamese. I only have my experience to fall back on. However, the stories and anecdotes I've heard from other people only reinforce that experience and the feelings I have.

Travel doesn't always need to be perfect. I like it when it is difficult. I like the struggle and having to find my way through the world. I think it builds character. And I don't mind paying more money. A dollar for them goes a lot further than a dollar for me. I get that we will haggle in the market, have a laugh, and I'll still overpay. But what I don't like is being treated like I'm not a person. I don't like being disrespected or cheated. I don't want to look at everyone and wonder if they are trying to cheat me. Every interaction doesn't need to be a struggle.

After three weeks in Vietnam, I couldn't get out fast enough and I'll be happy to never go back.

Author's Note: While I had a bad experience in Vietnam, many people have had good experiences. You need to find out for yourself. Learn about the good, the bad, and the ugly to become an informed traveler, and then go experience it for yourself. I'm not advocating anyone skip Vietnam. I'm just saying I have no desire to return.

 

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02:16 AM on 03/06/2012
And Dear Mr. Kepnes,

You mentioned in your post "People don’t like you because you are American. The world is violent. It’s poor. It’s dirty. It’s savage. Canada and Europe are O.K., but, if you go there, they will still be rude to you because you are American. No one likes us."
( http://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-blogs/why-americans-dont-travel-overseas/ )

And you become A CRYING BABY here! Go tell your mum how bad you were tricked instead of becoming a backpacker Mr. Kepnes.
03:19 PM on 03/01/2012
you talk a lot about respect, why did you expect that they should respect you? Is it becuase you are Western people. Life is all about struggling for living, this is the way they, people from poor country, struggle for their lives. Like all other people struggle for living in different ways. But I must admit that it' ashamed, but do expect to much respect and kindness.
09:11 AM on 02/28/2012
I think you have made a fool of yourself Matt. And those who sympathize with you are worse. There are people throughout the world who have to put up with being treated poorly every single day.
03:45 PM on 02/24/2012
i just spent 6 weeks in Viet Nam in many places, thought the people were fine (especially for making 100$/month), and some cab drivers in Can Tho rounded down the price. Nha Trang was amazing and was COMPLETELY full of westerners. Sai Gon was only rough because of the pure amount of people but fun. No one talked crap about you when you leave. we fed 8 people with food left over for 15$ (300,000 VND) and it had entertainment and singing on a boat on the river! it was crazy amazing. For the amount of westerners coming into Viet Nam and staying for years on end, that has to be a testament to something.
08:13 PM on 02/21/2012
I'm very sorry to hear about your bad experiences in Vietnam. I'm Vietnamese but I was born in Thailand and was raised in America. I've never stepped foot in Vietnam nor do I have any desire to go there. I think that you summed it up quite nicely when you said that there isn't any reason for people to go back to a place that treats them poorly.

The treatment that you felt is universal, and not only to foreigners or white people but even to Vietnamese people! I've heard countless of stories from friends and relatives who have gone back to Vietnam to be badgered and hassled for money. My mom lives in America and her own brother in Vietnam sold her land and kept the money. This is one of the reasons why I hesitate to go to Vietnam, the culture is corrupt. If you take a step back, it all stems from the government treating the people poorly which leads to the people treating others poorly. It is very unfortunate but I hope this helps shed more light on things.
10:22 PM on 02/20/2012
I have to admit that things Matt said in his article is not false but after reading "Asia - beneath the Surface" by Jim (http://asiabeneaththesurface.blogspot.com/2012/02/my-challenge-to-matt-kepnes-get-to-know.html?spref=fb), I only feel sorry for him.
09:33 PM on 02/20/2012
Matt i had heard so much about this article and i assumed that it would be worth reading...sadly i was quite disappointed. For starters, in 3 weeks you seemed to only focus on the bad things, quite clearly you are a pessimistic guy. I have been here for 2 years (originally from Scotland), and sure, i have had some difficult experiences but in order to get round these i simply ask a local to help me or, explain why this situation has occurred. In order to understand a country, i suggest that you ask local people, rather than fellow travelers. In addition, you are basing your decision, not to return to Vietnam, on experiences such as buying cheap drinks from the side of the road. Remember, Vietnamese see the west as being developed, therefore are constantly trying to emulate us. For all the travelers out there, come to Vietnam, visit the rural areas and live with local people, avoid fellow travelers, if you do, you will have a fantastic time, it is quite simply an amazing country with fantastic and ambitious people. Hail Hail
03:39 PM on 02/20/2012
As a Vietnamese American I hate to admit Matt's article is correct and the widespread scams in Vietnam are going daily. Matt's bad experiences described in his article are well known among the Vietnamese communities.

While most Vietnamese vendors are fair and friendly, many are not. The corrupted Vietnamese government must clean up their acts and protect tourists, not siding with the rogue vendors. The Vietnamese don't get respect from readers by covering up and denying the well known scams, rudeness and uncivilized culture that go on daily in this country.Your denials just tell readers that you are ill logical and stupid liars.

Before you accuse me as a Vietnamese hater and lying about the wonderful Vietnamese vendors in VN, Watch the news below in Youtube. Is that a behavior of a decent human being ? (Angry Vietnam Woman Rages At Camera Crew ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZJ_RH-tLdM

The news just posted this week from a Vietnamese website in HCM city, a tourist was forced to pay $480 ($10,000,000,000 Dong) for a fish in a restaurant. Note that this is the news from Vietnam. (Use Google translate to get the some ideas from the Vietnamese article).

http://tuoitre.vn/Tet-Online-2012/Du-Xuan/476183/An-ca-chuc-trieu-dong-o-Ha-Long.html

Not all Vietnamese vendors are bad to foreign tourists but the very bad things happen daily to tourists in VN. Matt is right about taking your chance to enjoy your vacation there.
10:07 AM on 02/19/2012
i think you're so brave to be in VN for 3 weeks to get these experiences :))
you lasted 3 weeks for a place where you thought you were not respected, so funny!
you got these things 5 years ago, and now, you complain about it. you talk as if Vn is a terrible place. what's your aims? to lower your angry 5years ago till now or noone accepts your opinion then you write it down?
sin's everywhere,it's in Vn, it's in America, too. of course, nowhere just has sin. i think that you had some good experiences which had made you stayed there for 3weeks. so why don't you say anything about that? are you scared that other people will come to Vn for those good things and realize that you're absolutely wrong?
poor you, MK
07:40 AM on 02/19/2012
Hey Matt, you do not have to travell to another country, or other countries to write about your experieces....Try to visit places in land, like Flint or Detroit in Michigan...Oakland. Richmond, East Palo-Alto or East LA in Calif.....Or South-side of Chicago, Southside of New-York city,Central of Baltimore and St.Louis....or the dark-side of New-Orleans....You will not only get riff-off with a few cents or a few bucks, acctually you might get robbed, beaten...or get killed.Bad crimes happen every where, everyday ...in every countries....Even in our own country, there are others always want your money....legally, such as...DMV, Dirty Cops, Banks, Insurance Companies....to the IRS....
And if you are the lucky one, you should be appreciated and thankful, and have your mind open about other places where they are hungry and starving....Otherwise, if you are not the lucky one...
Maybe someday you will write another article saying..." I am leaving the US,,,,and I will never, ever, ever com back to this country again....May be you will not.But, may be I will....
12:12 AM on 02/20/2012
@ Tad, Matt's blow is on Vietnam. I know where you are coming from, however, its on Vietnam and not USA. Its a fair blog.
07:09 AM on 02/19/2012
Hi MK....I had the same experieces as you had when visiting Vietnam in 2004....Face Taxi, street-vendors and bars , nite-clubs....
Travell in a strange country, with-out knowing the language...we should not ecpect to be treated fair or good....There are the peple suffer everyday in VN , just do not mind of cheating to make their everyday living life to be a little better....Please give it yourself an open mind to understand more about of lives, which including all the lies, cheats...in the world of poors, hungry....We are lucky enough to think that....we are ok, if we honest ourself. Please, be forget and beforgiven, being riff-off with a few cents or a few bucks....from a poor country, it worse like nothing comape with paying taxes in our rotten country....
12:14 AM on 02/20/2012
@ Tad,

Hey, its not about a poor country. All people in Vietnam that make money from tourists are poor ?. Why do you assume they are ?.
03:18 AM on 02/20/2012
well, making money from the tourists in VN are from all kinds of businesses....not from the poor people...Poor ones are trying to make enough to live throu the day...even from they own people and their own social-everydayliving-life....
05:09 PM on 02/18/2012
I'm not sorry for you , Matt, however, I don't trust Vietnamese in Vietnam.
08:45 PM on 02/21/2012
Then i'm sorry u haven't met a trust worthy one!
08:40 AM on 02/25/2012
I met a lot of liars in Saigon. People there said that Hanoi is even worse.
01:57 AM on 02/16/2012
If you do not like vietnam, then why do you not get out of there and instead of staying there
for the whole 3 weeks? Everywhere has the bad tourism. THe only thing is people do not complain and make noises like you. Viet people use to have good hospitality. How much do you understand about
their culture or people there? Vietnam is used to be a warn torn country and suffered a lot from the wars. This is some kind of disrespect and discrimination. You would better think carefully, This is more than a childish act
09:02 PM on 02/16/2012
Hey Twilight,
lets blame all on the war. When you commit to stay for the 3 weeks than you do exactly that.
He did, and now he has something to say. I think that many people complain...you just dont know about it....try going to the police station after a foreigner has been stolen. Last week it happened and my Viet friend was told by the police " if you are lying you will go to jail". The old French couple who lost her handbag at 2 pm in the afternoon from a snatch, asked why the police were talking to her for so long. She never translated for them.
12:55 AM on 02/19/2012
I just don' tlike the fact that matt complains about vn like this. Why did he stay for 3 weeks when he did not like vn? He could have gone somewhere else. This is more than a childish act!!. He thinks that all the white men are good. And we have to be so nice to him because he is white? Why did he not to travel to bangkok or china where people are very rude and is even much worse then vietnam? I am viet myself. I got ripped off too but I accepted this because i know that they are so poor and no money for living.I bet you are viet too. Bad things about tourism happen everywhere in the world. Vietnam was used to be the war torn country. Also, viet people are known as friendly and hospital. Obviously, he does not understand about vietnamese culture and people. He puts his complain on the newspaper for what? To discourage travel to vietnam? What such a noisy person. He has the choice not to like vietnam.
Why did he stay for such long time?
04:07 PM on 02/19/2012
Matt, VN will never and ever welcome tourist like you! no more complaint
01:42 AM on 02/20/2012
Twilight, this is also int he article!!!

However, after talking to a number of other travelers, I realized that we all had the same story. They all had tales of being ripped off, cheated, or lied to. We all had to struggle for everything.
11:56 PM on 02/15/2012
I have posted a reply to this article here:
http://asiabeneaththesurface.blogspot.com/2012/02/my-challenge-to-matt-kepnes-get-to-know.html
03:51 AM on 02/16/2012
Jim05,

do not agree with you at all. Five years is a pretty long time to live in Vietnam without being ripped off/stolen etc. Are you living in a matchbox ? However, I do think you have valid points but agree with Matt in general.
03:58 AM on 02/16/2012
At Jim05, A quick reaction on your comments. September last year, 82 year old USA lady pushed to the ground outside her house in Saigon.Bag snatched from her on the ground by 2 young viets.On the same subject, 71 year old expat followed from restaurant, then pushed into laneway, where fours Viets forced his gold ring from his finger, his marriage ring.

Now, where the hell are you living boy!
09:13 AM on 02/16/2012
Thanks for your comments - I am well aware there is crime in Vietnam, as there is in any other country. I am simply reporting my personal experience that in an entire 5 years of living in Saigon, I have not been ripped off nor the victim of any crime. I think those are pretty good statistics. Other than Beijing, I have never felt as safe personally as I do in Vietnam - I am not living in a bubble - yes, there is crime, but there is crime everywhere.
09:51 AM on 02/16/2012
Also, when we have to go back 6 months to find a violent crime in a city of maybe 8 million, your question as to where I am living does come in. The only thing I can tell you from that statistic is that I am not living in any major city in any Western nation. If we are seriously going to look at violent crimes, muggings and murders etc, Saigon is extremely safe.
04:37 PM on 02/15/2012
I have been to Vietnam twice, one in 2007 and one in 2010. My experience is not that far from Mr. Kepnes; however, I saw it from the different lens than he did. Even I was ripped and/or cheated on, it did not bother me a bit because the amount was so little. Ok, a taxi driver cheated on me by taking the longer route ( $3 dollars extra), street vendors cheated on me on a shirt (50 cents), ...sum them up per day, it did not even exceed $10.00 bucks. It is all about the attitude, folks.
06:41 AM on 02/16/2012
LOL,

That's hustler attitude, try to speak to while collar folks, or students or the majority of the population that ain't have to worry dead abt their 2 meals/day. Two meals, not even 3!