Zero + Maria Cornejo takes us to the jungle (or at least that's where she took me) with her Spring 2010 collection. She began the show with a stark white dress, then moved on to color her blank canvas with metallic lavender, emerald green, a soft royal blue, a piercing sky blue, and of course black. The colors along with textures of silk, leather, stiff cotton, and wood conjured earthy, atmospheric images and made you feel like she was bringing it all back to nature.
There's something at once simple and complex in the way Cornejo drapes and wraps the fabric and then slices the necklines. Her pieces are round, angular, and often asymmetrical all at the same time. She kept with her signature silhouettes, which is wise. She knows what works for her, and I'm sure both buyers and her loyal clientele agree and prove that her designs attract customers of all ages, shapes, and sizes.
There were several takes on the harem pant and not one, but three, jumpsuits. Evidently those trends are carrying over to spring. The leather outerwear pieces were buttery and a nice addition; also noteworthy were the blades of grass and marbled blue prints. The blue one specifically is breathtaking. Masterminding those incredible shoes -- chunky yet sleek wooden heels, soft leather swatches, and asymmetrical cutouts is (in collaboration with Cornejo) Eileen Shields. They were my obsession last season and will be yet again. The accessories overall -- statement pieces, yet somehow understated -- and bamboo details in several of the dresses tie the collection together and add a thematic element.
Well edited and curated, from the collection to the presentation, from the styling to the selection of space (dark wood floors and angular walls), it is apparent clear choices were made. Well done, Maria.
*photos from Jeremy Dante
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