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Michael F. Jacobson

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Curb Your Extremism, Restaurants

Posted: 07/19/11 02:06 PM ET

"Everything in moderation," goes one.

"There are no good foods and no bad foods," goes another.

Boy, if I had a nickel for every time I heard someone try to end an argument with one of those tired sayings! I believe such sayings had meaning when we first heard them from our parents or grandparents; after all, the meals we ate at home were typically moderate. And our parents and grandparents more often than not served real food, as opposed to what Michael Pollan calls "edible food-like substances" comprised of variously processed combinations of white flour, sugar, fat and salt.

In fact, there are plenty of good foods, including whole grains, beans, fish, fruits, vegetables, lean poultry, low-fat dairy and so on. And plenty of foods that are unambiguously bad for you, including sugary soda, fatty corn-fed ground beef, anything partially hydrogenated and so on.

"Everything in moderation" is usually used to justify serving (or consuming) one of those bad foods. But there is nothing moderate about most of the choices at sit-down restaurants like Applebee's, The Cheesecake Factory and Denny's. And that is why we at the Center for Science in the Public Interest have been handing out the Xtreme Eating Awards for the past few years.

Consider the Denny's Fried Cheese Melt. It's basically an order of mozzarella sticks stuffed into a grilled cheese sandwich. With fries, it comes to 1,260 calories. Or Cheesecake Factory's Farmhouse Cheeseburger. It's basically a bacon cheeseburger on steroids, with a layer of grilled, smoked pork belly and topped off with a fried egg. With fries, that's almost 2,000 calories. It's like someone ordered an order of breakfast on top of their lunch -- how moderate!

Cheese (I like to think of it as "dairy meat") is a common denominator of many Xtreme meals. Another example is Applebee's Provolone-Stuffed Meatballs With Fettuccine. That dish, which comes a piece of garlic bread, will sock you with 1,520 calories(!), two days worth of saturated fat -- 43 grams -- and more than two days worth of sodium.

These monstrous mash-ups are nothing new. Previous winners of the Nutrition Action Xtreme Eating Awards have included things like a cheeseburger stuffed into a quesadilla, or stuffed potato skins crossed with pizza. But this year, Applebee's is actively promoting this trend by advertising a special "stacked, stuffed and topped" menu, featuring things like meatballs stuffed with cheese.

It's too bad that these sort of dishes are so prominent on the menus of many American chain restaurants. Nutritionally, it sometimes seems to me like a race to the bottom, rather than food innovation. Fortunately, calorie counts are soon heading to chain restaurant menus, courtesy of last year's health reform law. We can only hope that that encourages restaurants to try stacking, stuffing and topping their items with an extreme variety of good foods like vegetables, whole grains, beans and fruit.

 

Follow Michael F. Jacobson on Twitter: www.twitter.com/CSPI

 
 
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02:26 PM on 07/28/2011
Anyone eating at the Cheesecake Factory or similar establishment deserves what they get. The best self defense is to not be where the trouble is and no one is forced to eat at Denny's or Applebee's. On a tangential note we can thank CSPI for: 1) continuing to perpetuate the soundly debunked Lipid Hypothesis and, 2) making sure that a generation of Americans consumed vast amounts of trans-fats, instead of healthier medium-chain triglycerides (Coconut oil) by lobbying on false information and scaring restaurants off of saturated fats.
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DrP
08:28 PM on 07/23/2011
My partner and I recently completed a 4-day bike trip for charity with a group in a rural part of our state. We were concerned going into the trip because we are ketone-burners, and the organizers of this type of event operate under the delusion that all cyclists need to carbo-load. The organized meals were bound to carb-heavy, and in a small town, good restaurant options are rare (if there is a restaurant, it is usually McDonalds or another fast food restaurant) and being on bikes, we have limited transportation. We were really pleased to discover that in one community where we fortunately were scheduled to camp for 2 nights of the four, there was an Applebee's two blocks from the camp site. We have never been Applebees fans, but were pleasantly surprised to find that we could get a nice steak and a side of broccoli and a salad for a reasonable price. The fat, protein, and low-carb veggies were perfect fuel for our biking and we felt energetic and strong for the next day's ride both days that we patronized Applebee's. There are good choices there and we did not find the portions to be over-sized. It sure beat the baked-potato bar, pasta bar, and pancake feeds that were provided by the organizers.
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DrP
09:47 PM on 07/22/2011
"everything in moderation" is a ridiculous philosophy when it comes to diet/nutrition. Should a person with a peanut allergy eat peanuts in moderation? Should someone who is gluten intolerant eat wheat bread in moderation? As someone with glucose intolerance/insulin resistance, telling me I should eat carby foods in moderation is just as foolish. It makes no sense for me to consume sugars, grains, or starches, because my body can't digest them and eating them makes me sick and literally starving. Rather, when it comes to food that is unhealthy for me, I prefer to treat carbohydrates like an addict must treat an addictive substance and follow the philosophy of "just say no."
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Karl Wilder
03:14 PM on 07/23/2011
No Carbohydrates...wow. that meas no fruit, no vegetables, no grains, no beans.

What do you eat?
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DrP
08:33 PM on 07/23/2011
Healthy whole foods - meat, fish, poultry, full-fat dairy including butter and cream, and eggs are the foundation of my diet which is about 75% fat. I can handle about 20 grams of carbohydrate which I get in the form of non-starchy, high-fiber green veggies such as kale, broccoli, green beans. (yes they do contain some carbohydrate, but very little. I could probably be OK without them). I do not eat grains, fruit, or beans, because they are too high in sugars and starches for my metabolism. I'm surprised that you seem not to know that many people have removed fruits, grains, and legumes from their diets along with all sugars with very good results.
I have been eating this way for more than 11 years and I am in incredible health at age 58. (Which is remarkable because I have a terrible family history of all kinds of conditions related to insulin-resistance, which I have avoided with my dietary lifestyle)
DrSnuggles
You label me and I'll label you
11:52 AM on 07/22/2011
Wow - so Cheescake Factory is unhealthy, I mean that's a shocker, but not nearly as surprising as Denny's - which I thought was definitely super good for you....
08:32 AM on 07/22/2011
That's about as funny as saying "DRINK RESPONSIBLY" no such thing
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Fromageball
05:02 PM on 07/22/2011
What do you mean by that? I think more people drink responsibly(assuming you're talking about alcohol) than eat responsibly. Unless you're in the college binge drinking stage of life - and not everyone goes through that - most people are capable of sitting down and having a glass or 2 of wine/beer/other drink without getting hammered.
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Karl Wilder
03:14 PM on 07/23/2011
Sure there is. Talk to Europe. A glass of wine with a meal is responsible drinking.
05:46 PM on 07/21/2011
People still eat at Applebee's? Huh, didn't realize that.
12:12 PM on 07/21/2011
Well, it is certainly entertaining, but I think you are preaching to the choir. Anyone who reads your newsletter would never eat that crap. I think the more insidious restaurant food is the stuff that masquerades as healthy. For instance, take a look sometime at the sodium levels of Panera salads and sandwiches. I thought I was eating pretty healthy until i checked their nutrition facts page on their web site. I wrote to them months ago and they said they were looking into it but I see no changes at all.
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DrP
08:34 PM on 07/23/2011
Sodium is not the problem in Panera food items.
08:16 AM on 07/25/2011
What is the problem with Panera?
08:17 PM on 07/20/2011
Here we go again with the P.T Barnum CSPI and Mr. J Chicken little "The sky is falling..." show.
Mr. J knows the strong effect self-moderation has. So he is trying to cut it down. His wish
for a nanny state of limited choice and taxation has hit its limit. Yes if you eat too much you
get fat . Thus use moderation yourself and control yourself. CSPI and ETDET dictates from
on high ring hollow. The Ralf Nader wild scare tactics used by CSPI and ETDET have been exposed.
This is my opinion and as Mr. J put this as his opinion the public should see both sides.
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Silverwolf72
Are We There Yet?
07:23 PM on 07/20/2011
I hate how all this health biz has killed food. When I go out I want good tasting food, now I get poor tasting food so they can cut 50cal.
I cook healthy at home and I want my restaurants back
01:30 PM on 07/20/2011
While those extreme foods make for good PR, via commercials, we are bombarded with over-the-top food items all day long ... while watching NFL football, I decided to snap some of these "delectable" items: http://bit.ly/4QikjZ

There is a solution: Identify equally tasty foods that are healthy...it's not that difficult. You just have to desire health over our cultural norm.

Ken Leebow
http://www.LifeWithoutLipitor.com
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Quark50
The enemy's gate is down
05:43 PM on 07/19/2011
I like that show "Man vs. Food" where that guy goes around eating nasty stuff.
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babybelle
PureBread Mutt LOL
04:51 PM on 07/19/2011
Nobody is forcing anyone to go to these restaurants.
04:37 PM on 07/19/2011
Hi Michael---you are looking for the elusive escape from our decades old food and health trap. It's all so simple--- we have created obesity and keep at it. Mt quick fix? Admit that we are totally incompetent in selecting food. What is my solution? Let instinct andthe gut take over--- I quit aging ever since. (My second obesity discovery).-------Now you know!
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William Anderson LMHC
Licensed Psychotherapist, Weight Control Expert
03:39 PM on 07/19/2011
Thank you for your great work! After struggling for 25 years with obesity and weight loss failure, I finally solved the problem with a form of behavioral therapy, Therapeutic Psychogenics, and lost 140 lbs, permanently (over 25 years ago). Part of the solution was changing faulty belief systems, such as thinking that what we have come to accept in restaurants (and in our obesegenic culture) is normal and OK. CSPI has done a great job in sounding the alarm and putting a light on how unhealthy and predatory our food culture has become, so that only the most obtuse cannot see that its not OK. We've normalized a lethal lifestyle and we need to change. Keep up the great work!

William Anderson, LMHC
Author of 'The Anderson Method - Secrets of Permanent Weight Loss'
Blog: http://theandersonmethodblog.wordpress.com/
08:50 AM on 07/23/2011
Apparently, Dr. Jacobson is not familiar with the research indicating that saturated fats do not clog arteries. http://blogs.webmd.com/heart-disease/2010/03/low-fat-diet-trojan-horse-of-heart.html Moreover, his low-fat dairy recommendation puts one at a disadvantage where weight control is concerned. http://www.nutrition.org/asn-blog/2009/08/the-milk-debate/
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William Anderson LMHC
Licensed Psychotherapist, Weight Control Expert
10:11 AM on 07/24/2011
Your interpretation of and conclusion based on this material does not inspire trust in your opinion. I suggest a more rigorous scientific approach. CSPI and Dr. Jacobson do a good job with that.
01:57 AM on 08/18/2011
Critique of the meta-analysis quoted in the webMd article (a meta-analysis funded interestingly enough by the National Dairy Council).

http://www.ajcn.org/content/91/3/497.full

No references offered by the author of the second article, which makes it difficult to verify any of her claims.
03:28 PM on 07/19/2011
"Everything in moderation" is usually used to justify serving (or consuming) one of those bad foods"

and guess what? if you do consume it in moderation, maybe once a month, what terrible things would happen to you, most likely nothing

"That dish, which comes a piece of garlic bread, will sock you with 1,520 calories(!), two days worth of saturated fat -- 43 grams -- and more than two days worth of sodium."

eek! saturated fat and sodium?

"It's too bad that these sort of dishes are so prominent on the menus of many American chain restaurants."

why? when there is nothing wrong with them. as long as you're not eating them every day or every other day it's really not a big deal
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DrP
09:49 PM on 07/22/2011
The problem is not the saturated fat and sodium, but the carbohydrates, such as the white flour garlic bread.
The symptoms I get from eating carbohydrates are definitely not worth the momentary "mouth pleasure" of consuming sugars and starches.