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Michael Henry Adams

Michael Henry Adams

Posted: April 21, 2010 12:26 PM

Crack Attack!

What's Your Reaction:

However sincere State Senator Eric Adams or Bill Cosby might be admonishing urban youth to, 'pull up their pants,' such efforts are hardly liable to work. The exploits of the lamented late Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga alone are proof positive of one of fashion's most satisfying perennial pleasures. Style statements which shock and even scandalize an un-hip establishment are always the younger generation's favorite form of subversion.

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Sporting sagging baggies that display immaculately white briefs, colorful boxers, and sometimes more, the disaffected of today -- poorly educated, un-and-under employed, filled with desire for a bountiful life, notwithstanding dire prospects -- are they any more unreasonable than their rebellious afro-wearing, bell-bottomed grandparents?

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For certain, their audacious bravado in challenging anyone who doesn't appreciate what they see, to 'kiss my [the fashion-freedom-fighter's] ass!' is no different from the codpiece, a focal point of male attire for 200 years, from roughly 1400 to the close of the 16th Century.


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Just what was a codpiece, you now wonder? Named for the old English term for bag or scrotum, it was a flap or a bag, attached in front to conceal the opening between a man's hose. This additional feature of male apparel was at first made necessary because of the shortening of the skirt on men's tunics. Soon however, it developed into something else altogether, not just a flap to conceal one's drawers. Ironically, in time, a fashion developed out of concern for modesty, evolved into a protuberance, puffed, slashed, even ornamented with jeweled pins and engorged with padding which deliberately called attention to the male anatomy.

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Imitating the elite, the fashion was quickly adapted by soldiers, merchants, and even peasants in the fields. Embellishing court dress and work clothes, it even became a feature of suites of armor.

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Brazen eye-catchers by the reign of Henry VIII, codpieces achieved their greatest elaboration and scale, sometimes doing double duty as coin purses or a place to conceal letters or poisons. The sawdust and wool wadding employed to allow men to enhance the proportions of their endowment, 'bombast,' is still a useful part of the language, signifying false pride and swaggering braggadocio.


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Like sagging baggies, codpieces were a highly aggressive expression of masochismo. They also emanated considerable, usually unintentional, homoerotic appeal. With massive Henry's death and the accession of his sickly 9-year-old son Edward VI, who died at 15, the codpiece's prominence steadily diminished.


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England's Edward VI, 1537-1553


Whereas Henry's reign provided fashions that exaggerated what was normal, his daughter Elizabeth's rule was marked by fashions featuring unnaturally manipulated silhouettes. With a woman on the throne of England , and homosexual Henri III, king of France, the shrinking codpiece gradually fell from use to disappear altogether by the start of the 17th Century.

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"With the decline of the codpiece, overall male costume showed a tendency in the 1670's, towards feminization inspired by Henri III, accentuated by diminutive muffs, tousled ringlets and pearl earrings," noted fashion scholar Michael McCollom. How odd that perhaps the gay world's all-time favorite fashion statement, before sagging baggies, should have floundered, due to the influence of two queens?

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Sagging baggies, tattoos, false nails and hair, piercings, what are we of a certain age and with squeamish sensibilities, to make of such modishness? The more current styles are able to annoy and anger old folks, the longer they are inclined to continue to enjoy popularity that transcends race and class. Given how effectively young people are presently able to outrage us, it's difficult to imagine just what offensive fashions their offspring might devise to outrage them.

 

Follow Michael Henry Adams on Twitter: www.twitter.com/harlemhellion

 
 
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
05:18 PM on 05/12/2010
RosieLee I did miss you welcome back and good luck with your Tory PM! I wonder what HM thinks?
11:04 PM on 05/12/2010
David Cameron couldn't be further from the stereotype of a Tory toff or privileged aristocrat. Cameron’s father, Iain, is severely disabled, he was born with shortened and deformed legs which eventually had to be amputated. Yet this remarkable man insisted that he could do anything an able bodied person could do: and did it. Dressed in top hat and tails, Iain courted the most beautiful women and twirled them round the dance floor as gracefully as Fred Astaire. He was a formidable opponent at football. Yet Cameron’s grandfather refused to have Iain in the family accountancy firm, saying he was too disabled: until Iain proved him wrong. Iain’s experience inspired the Cameron family's lifelong fight against discrimination and injustice. Cameron’s mother was a Justice of the Peace, she and Iain brought their children up with a strong sense of social responsibility.

David Cameron was an exceptionally bright student, one of the brightest his Oxford tutor says he’s ever taught. Cameron took the non-stereotyped route though university, he was the first Eton pupil in 30 or 40 years to study PPE at Brasenose college, not a prestigious college, he worked hard and got a good first. He was known for his hard work and honesty and as the one everyone looked to lead and care for others.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
11:21 PM on 05/13/2010
It sounds inspirational, nearly too good to be true...life can be so extremely nuanced, so I hope your new PM is merely half as exceptional as you suggest he is...
11:08 PM on 05/12/2010
Cameron's first child, Ivan, was born with very severe disabilities. David's Maiden Speech in parliament was a tribute to Ivan, Cameron spoke of his pain that his son suffered so much, and added: "he has such a beautiful smile, when my son smiles, I'm the happiest father in the world. Cameron shared the care of Ivan with his wife, often taking baby Ivan to work with him, ignoring his boss's objections.

When Ivan very sadly died last year, aged just 6., Cameron paid tribute to 'our beautiful boy'. Cameron had spent 116 days of the last year of Ivan’s life sleeping on the floors of NHS hospitals after Ivan had severe fits. This inspired his love of the NHS and its staff, his admiration and empathy for sick children and their parents and led him to take up the fight for them and others in need. In the hospitals where the Camerons had to spend so much time, David was often found reading in the early hours to sick children who couldn’t sleep, frequently getting just a few hours sleep before going into parliament to do PMQs or an all day session.

David Cameron is a lovely man.
03:24 PM on 05/11/2010
Cameron is now having an audience with the Queen.

"Are you in a position to form a government, Mr Cameron?", the queen will ask him.

"Yes, your majesty", he will reply, bowing low.

"I invite you to form my government, Prime Minister Cameron."

"I am honoured to do so, your majesty", our new Prime Minister will say.

Then PM Cameron will climb back into his silver Jaguar/ Jensen; note the symbolism, sleek and modern, light and open, no hiding away in a sinister black limousine, the small cod piece of a man secure enough not to need a phoney large one: a departure from tradition, like everything else about our remarkable new PM.

This is so wonderful. The people of England will have our civil liberties and rights returned to us, no more biometric ID cards or intrusion in our emails, goodbye EUSSR! We shall make our own laws and no longer be the most watched people in the western world. We shall no longer live in fear of our own Prime Minister and government.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
04:21 PM on 05/11/2010
Dear RosiLee, are you really so sure? The ties that bind to Eton, Oxford, aristocracy and privileged are surely deeper than all that-----I feel like a concerned brother observing the start of an unsuitable infatuation---it's certain I can't convince you---so enjoy it while you can my dear...
10:02 PM on 05/12/2010
Thank you for your kind words and your word of wisdom, Michael Henry. I'm not surprised that you view Cameron as a Tory Toff, since that's how Brown and Labour have smeared him. Cameron is in reality a good man making the best of an impossible situation he's been locked into by our corrupt electoral boundaries under Labour, plus former PM Brown's bizarre refusal to accept that he lost the election, was no longer Prime Minister and his refusal to leave 10 Downing Street. We thought we were going to have to drag him out screaming and clinging to the door knocker.

Cameron won a million more votes than won Blair our last election yet was awarded 50 less seats than Blair, which disgracefully denied Cameron an overall majority.

The appalling thing is that the number of votes Cameron polled was sufficient to give him an overall majority of seats (MPs), but the corruption of our electoral boundaries under Labour, which has subverted our election results throughout Labour's terms of office, denied him the seats he should have won. Conservatives have to win an average of thousands more votes (up to 26,000) in order win each MP's seat under Labour. We've also had electoral fraud, a number of Labour candidates have been linked to multiple bogus postal votes scams, there could be many more fraudulent votes which have not been detected.
10:11 PM on 05/12/2010
Brown has so far polled 8.6 million votes, giving him 251 seats, Cameron has polled 10.8 million votes, giving him 306 seats, just 20 seats short of an overall majority. This and Brown's refusal to leave Downing Street forced liberal Conservative Cameron and Liberal Democrat Nick Clegg to form a coalition to send Brown packing. Brown then tried to entice Nick into a Labour coalition which had no hope of an overall majority. Brown's unseemly behaviour will go down in history.

Our Constitution prevents HM speaking her mind about politics, but her face in the photographs taken with the two Prime Ministers tells us all we need to know. She looks most uncomfortable - and nervous - in a picture taken with Brown on his resignation, yet is smiling broadly in the photograph of her meeting with Cameron.
08:35 PM on 04/25/2010
It would be interesting to see the codpiece make a comeback. If the size of women's breasts can be seen just by glancing, why shouldn't the same apply to men? Can you imagine the outrageous bravado that might ensue if men were to adopt a form fitting pant thing comparable to a female's bra?

But then we'd run into the inevitable codpiece padding,... maybe push-up lift for codpiece.... maybe even silicone codpieces... oh boy.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
02:19 PM on 04/27/2010
it's a fantastic notion, but beware those 'push up' codpieces!
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GrownupStewie
09:01 AM on 04/22/2010
I would honestly say a good portion, probably 60% of male fashion today, all mens fashions, is to attract the attention of other men. Whether it be sexual attention, or showing other men how macho or powerful or confident they are....

I also think women do the same thing, most women dress for other women. Sure both sexes (assuming they are straight) want to attract the opposite sex, but their fashion choices also reflex how they want to be seen by their own sex....

its quite a remarkable study of human behavior...
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
12:14 AM on 04/23/2010
well said, thank you so much for your comment.. only, isn't only women of a certain class who dress to insite envy mong other women?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
GrownupStewie
02:25 AM on 04/23/2010
no, I believe all woman (or those who care about their looks, trust me I know some woman who dress like crap everyday because they dont care what anyone thinks) dress to some extent for other woman. Especially if your going into a social setting that you have been in before. Like remember the days of going to the mall, and you would dress up just a little because the other guys at the mall were dressed up a bit more? or if you go to a club in jeans the first time (lets assume this club has no dress code), and all the other guys are in nice dress slacks, the second time you go, i would bet a million dollars you would throw on those slacks. I might be some sort of peer pressure, but you also want to put your best foot forward and gain the respect of everyone else in the group.

I dont think class or race really has any effect on people dressing for the same sex. I would dress up a bit for my business classes because the other guys were dressed up a bit, there were no woman in the class, and no dress code, but i didnt want them to look down on me, I wanted to dress to impress.
10:01 PM on 04/21/2010
Great article, and a thought-provoking comparison--although the classes involved are opposites. I'd like to know how far the fashion for codpieces penetrated the lower classes of the time. Conversely, we don't see this current transgressive fashion being mainstreamed the way so many others, like piercings and tattoos, are. Racism, perhaps?
Interesting that the baggy style supposedly began in imitation of inmates whose belts had been taken away, causing their pants to droop.
One of the downsides, as it were, of baggy fashions is that when trying to run, as when fleeing the police, the fashion-transgressive man's pants will fall down. This often causes laughter and glee on the part of pursuing police. It's also interesting to note a backlash against tattoos--because they can be used as identifying marks by law enforcement.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Michael Henry Adams
PRESERVATIONIST, HISTORIAN, COMMUNITY ACTIVIST!
10:38 PM on 04/21/2010
In the past when fashion was a mostly, but not exclusively trickle down enterprise, as Jan and Pieter Bruegel show in their paintings showing peasants, it's clear that this manifestation of virility and swagger extended to the lowest rungs of the social ladder, albeit without so much bombast and ornament.

As for baggy trousers, just go to Chelsea in New York or to Malibu and you'll see all sorts of hipster wannabes showing their 'best side'