The line between fashion and art has always been fluid, with some of the world's most influential designers known for creating what can be described as wearable works of art. The connection between art and makeup is arguably even stronger -- we're not called makeup artists for nothing! -- and personally, I've always been inspired by the work of some of my favorite painters, photographers and sculptors (as seen in my past beauty campaigns and runway looks). And it seems that this season, so have Karl Lagerfeld and Miuccia Prada (to name just a couple). The latest round of international runway shows celebrated art in various forms which echoed through the clothes, the beauty looks, and even some of the exhibition spaces where the runway fought for attention with arresting murals (Prada) and custom-made installations (Chanel). The three trends below stood out to me as driving beauty in new directions. But as I always say with the more intimidating runway trends, find the element of the look with which you can confidently identify... And then own it!!
Photos courtesy of Napoleon Perdis
1. Graphic Arts
Calder. Lichtenstein. Picasso. This season, several designers chose looks that more closely resembled line drawings or even bold graphic prints than makeup. While Haider Ackermann stuck with carbon black liner pulled into dangerously sharp wings and angles designed to look like sketches, Anthony Vaccarello and Céline created eye work in bold blocks that was distinctly reminiscent of American sculptor and painter Alexander Calder. As for Chanel and Givenchy? That was makeup worthy of a frame -- and an exhibition at MOMA!
Looks I created for Toni Maticevski RTW SS 2012 and Alex Perry SS 2011
Get the graphic look: I love liner as a trend -- and the bolder the better! For Toni Maticevski's SS12 RTW show I created a bold look that fused a modern Nefertiti with old-Hollywood glamour by joining a strong brow with graphic, sensuous liner. It was one of my favorite looks of the season because it was strong yet undeniably feminine. Create a modern, graphic eye by lining only the inner and outer corners of the eye with a liquid liner to give the eye shape and leaving the center 3rd bare. Then line the outer corner of the lower lash line, extending up to the natural crease of the eye. To create a lifted look, make sure the angle of the line extends towards the tail of the brow. Then starting at the end point of the liner (at the outer corner of the eye), take the liner back towards the top lash line.
PRO TIP: For a steady application, try dabbing over the eye instead of drawing in one straight line.
2. The Blue Period
Proving that blue eye shadow isn't confined to the 80s archives, multiple designers counted on hues of the shade to create a bold statement this season. The strong blocks of royal blue spotted at Marc by Marc Jacobs gave the looks a very modern feel, especially in the absence of mascara or liner. The models at Badgley Mischka sported a feminine, almost Barbie-inspired take on the look, with a sheer wash of aqua shadow punctuated by a soft pink lip. The Armani show introduced a fresh take on blue with a seafoam shadow diffused all around the eyes for an ethereally beautiful effect.
Spring 2014 looks from Marc by Marc Jacobs, Badgley Mischka and Armani
Go back to blue: This is a little-known secret, but navy is one of the most universally face-flattering shades there is and it looks just fabulous on blondes in particular. I love incorporating shades of blue into a smoky eye. For just a hint of color, work a liner in any blue shade on the upper or lower lash line or scribble over the entire eyelid and blend with a neutral eyeshadow shade to create a no-fuss smoky eye.
3. Return to Innocence
Spring 2014 wasn't all about the eyes with several designers choosing to focus on the perfection of the skin with impeccable, velvety complexions and flushed cheeks. The natural, youthful faces at Marni and Valentino evoked pure innocence and the slightest hint of bronze on the eye at Dolce & Gabbana lent a touch of modern glamour to their look. This is really a look that requires no translation yet that fantastically flawless skin is often the hardest thing to fake.
The look I created for Camilla & Marc SS 2013; Spring 2014 looks from Marni and Dolce & Gabbana
Get skintastic: In the world of makeup, less can often be more and this is certainly the case here! I'm fanatical about skin, it really has to be perfect if you're going to keep everything else quite bare. Start with a Radiance-Boosting Primer, followed with a liquid or cream foundation a touch lighter than the complexion to highlight the center of the face. Blend the foundation into the skin with your fingertips to truly get that 'second skin' appearance. Sweep a pink blush (with a touch of shimmer) over the cheeks and highlight the top of the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and cupid's bow with a cream luminizer.
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