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Napoleon Perdis

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The Cult Of Beauty

Posted: 07/19/11 04:31 PM ET

2011-07-19-NapoleonPerdisWebbPaulSmith.jpg
Photo courtesy of the Annenburg Foundation © 2002 Felicia Webb. Backstage at Paul Smith.

What exactly is beauty? It's impossible to define in any succinct way; beauty means different things to different people, cultures and eras. My friend and editor-in-chief of Vogue Australia, Kirstie Clements, is constantly pushing and redefining the notion of beauty. To me, it's Vogue's unofficial MO. Kirstie introduced me to the concept of "beautifully grotesque," a term coined in what has become one of my favourite coffee table tomes, Extreme Beauty in Vogue (Skira), which looks at some more challenging notions. It came to mind as I visited the Annenberg Space for Photography in Los Angeles last weekend to see the Beauty CULTure exhibit (catch it before November 27).

The exhibition showcases the work of over 100 photographers and explores the expression of beauty, from the celebratory to the borderline disturbing. Controversial yet beautiful, provocative but polished, different lenses captured different interpretations. To me, this carefully curated collection of work is a true celebration of diversity. I loved the emotion behind a Chuck Close image or the extraordinary imagination seen in David LaChapelle's work. One photo that spoke to me was the image of a model backstage at a Paul Smith show. She's literally being pulled and primped by an army of hairstylists and makeup artists, and it really captured that organized chaos of the beautification process that those of us on the other side of the camera know all too well. But as I walked through the exhibition, it struck me how the notion of beauty has evolved through time -- from the days of Marilyn Monroe and screen-star pin ups to the often extreme ideals fuelled by cosmetic surgery.

In my 20 years as a makeup artist, I've made up thousands of faces, including actresses, models, singers, and a virtual army of real women. And living in LA these days, I am lucky enough to witness the full spectrum of beauty on a daily basis: from the casual Californian take, to more exotic ethnic ideals, right through to the pursuit of plastic not-so-fantastic. Anything goes. And I think that's worth celebrating.


 

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11:03 AM on 07/25/2011
eva mendes. next question.
lawFROMNEWYORK
America needs a Green Republic party and a general
05:50 PM on 07/21/2011
There are only two beauties: The ones who move you in person through natural allure, charisma and fashion, and the ones in the pages, web pages, television and film who are selected from millions for this reason or that. Hang your hat on the beauty before you if you can find things to talk about, care about, act on and enjoy together.

Funny thing beauty -- often it arrives in plain packages : ) GO THERE !
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AnaM
11:04 PM on 07/20/2011
Your'e spot on about diversity Napoleon. I used to think the old adage about beauty being in the eye of the beholder was a little OTT, but now that I'm older I see (literally and intellectually) it for what it is.
But in terms of models and most celebrities, I tend to not to make too much of a big deal about photo shoots. To me they are artificial. A construction that represents the vision of the artist, not necessarily the person underneath.
I do have to say, that beauty is multi-faceted. In terms of the physical though, I tend to think 'traffic stopper'. And this is not so much about beauty per se but charisma as well. I had a university friend who wasn't model tall or groomed to perfection (shaped brows, coiffed hair or wore makeup), but physically, she'd draw the eye of men (and as a result women, who weren't too pleased) everywhere we went! Whether it was a trip too Woolies or Paddy's Markets.
Another traffic stopper has to be Sarah Murdoch. I saw her in jeans and no makeup in Randwick years ago. Before she got married, and I was agog at her flawlessness.
On the farther extreme, Gerard Depardieu isn't aesthetically perfect but he has that roguish beauty as well.
lawFROMNEWYORK
America needs a Green Republic party and a general
11:49 AM on 07/20/2011
Let's look at your 'casual California' versus 'ethnic exotic'. One out of eight Americans is a Californian. Immigrants clamor for its shores in part for the success stories centuries-old of a variety of immigrants to the Bear Republic state. One wonders how a freckled-blonde image beauty lingers with film makers and advertisers when people from 200 or more nations are present to contribute to the updated image of California beauty.
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lenguss
11:33 PM on 07/19/2011
Beauty is like pornography. I can't define it but I know it when I see it.
08:00 PM on 07/19/2011
I kinda think that our idea of beauty is - maybe...just maybe...exiting the realm of the ridiculous. At least for the general public. The idea of what is beautiful is more basic: plus size women, older women, the whole "gray is black" thing and more natural beauties are the norm. Stick-thin is till a problem to quite a degree, but at least we're recognizing and talking about it. Thanks for the post!
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ignacio sanabria
Mirror synapses at work
06:52 PM on 07/19/2011
Brigitte Bardot was a bombshell in the 60`s. At the time she was considered one of the most gorgeous women. Would her be considered a bombshell today at her age? I would. Yet, time and culture think otherwise.
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DocManhattan
04:50 AM on 07/20/2011
I do not know of one single person who would say Bardot in her prime was not completely breathtaking. The ideal has not changed THAT much... Similarly, Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo, Eva Marie Saint, Lauren Bacall, and Catherine Deneuve and Jane Fonda in their youth - they would all be considered beautiful today as they were in their time.
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AAHewetson
Intelligence is just fine with me
04:10 PM on 07/19/2011
What is beauty?

Beauty is a perfect pint of stout, served by a barmaid with a twinkle in her eye, at any pub overlooking any body of water in Scotland.

What else do you want to know?
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ScottishScript
"I am not a number, I am a person!"
08:24 PM on 07/19/2011
Well I'm in Scotland and there's a pub down the road overlooking a body of water, the Forth & Clyde canal.

As I passed tonight plugging for pike I saw stout, I saw barmaids with that special twinkle, but overlooking the water left much to be desired.

Floating on the surface I saw a spent gas cannister, a mangy looking swan and the bloated carcass of a fox.

Sorry to report this, I guess two out of three ain't bad right?