Of course it felt a bit like an outpost of the gorgeous museum in Paris -- but without seeming imitative or second best. This museum had its own special grace and logic.
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Each dish has been perfected by long practice, day after day, night after night.
The cliche is that it's impossible to get a bad meal in Paris. Well, you can get a meal that isn't bad, but isn't so great either, and you can overpay.
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