In the shadows of Norma Desmond-era Hollywood, just 49 steps south of James Caan's star on the Walk of Fame, is a vestige of Tinseltown's long-vanished Golden Era bar scene.
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Pick your poison, noir tourist, and the City of Angels will intoxicate with its beauty-on-the-edge-of-gloom aura and time-bubble pit stops. Pop by dow...
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