Charlie Palmer's foie gras mousseline with bing cherries was also a favorite. Light and fluffy, it was beautifully smooth. And who could resist Francois Payard's tasting table full of macaroons? Each was accompanied by a wink and French charm.
One day two weeks ago at Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, Calif., I ate rich, chewy, bacon-studded chocolate-chip candy bars and aromatic, melt-in-the-mouth chocolate truffles topped with pulverized chicharrones.