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Cooking Off the Cuff

Cooking Off the Cuff: Squid! Chorizo! Beans! (You Can even Skip the Squid)

Edward Schneider | Posted 10.14.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

An unexpectedly long cooking time won't get in the way of putting dinner on the table. Make plenty: you'll have pasta e fagioli soon.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Twice-Baked Pastry Again: Just One More Savory Tart

Edward Schneider | Posted 10.07.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

The acidic green tomatoes automatically create a balanced flavor with the cheeses and olive oil, and they lack the sweetness of ripe tomatoes, so the outcome is very different from a peak-of-summer red tomato dish.

Cooking Off the Cuff: A Crisp Savory Tart to Start a Meatless Dinner, Delicious Sauce Too!

Edward Schneider | Posted 09.30.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Here's the latest beneficiary of that technique, a vegetarian (not vegan) tart that made a grand first course for a recent dinner with friends, and whose leftovers, still crisp, were a nice snack the next day.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Glandular Cuisine - Sweetbreads With Salsa Rossa

Edward Schneider | Posted 09.23.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

People who don't like liver and kidneys tend - wrongly - to include far milder-flavored sweetbreads on their list of aversions, while those who love those things often say they find sweetbreads lackluster and not worthy of their attention.

Cooking Off the Cuff: For Crisp Pastry, Bake It Twice

Edward Schneider | Posted 09.16.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Sure, if you get caught up in a conversation with guests and deeply involved in a negroni or two, you risk crossing the line between well done and charred. But you'll find that there's quite a bit of leeway here.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Tonight's Dinner, Tomorrow's Sauce

Edward Schneider | Posted 09.09.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

For Jackie and me, it is difficult not to buy bluefish at this time of year: when it is as fresh as we find it in the farmers' market, it can hardly be beat for full (not "fishy") flavor and substantial texture.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Tomato Pie - But Not Pizza

Edward Schneider | Posted 09.02.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Even mediocre tomatoes start to taste good when slow-roasted as these are, so imagine how good already-delicious ripe summer tomatoes will be, especially when bolstered by all those other Mediterranean flavors.

Cooking Off the Cuff: For Great Summer Tomato Sauce, Grate Great Summer Tomatoes

Edward Schneider | Posted 08.26.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

It is a real seasonal treat to use fresh tomatoes, either raw or cooked. But be sure to save one or two for slicing onto a tuna fish sandwich or a hamburger.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Not the Tomato Risotto I'd Planned

Edward Schneider | Posted 08.19.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

I remembered that Café Murano risotto and saw the basket of ripe farmers' market tomatoes on the counter. I used to not cook Swiss chard (or other greens) with tomato. Ever. It was a little idée fixe of mine that they were natural-born enemies.

Cooking Off The Cuff: Cauliflower Parmigiana? Sure, Why Not?

Edward Schneider | Posted 08.12.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

It turned out to be more than decent and well worth the minimal effort -- always given fabulous tomatoes and an appropriate cheese (good cauliflower is generally easy to find, though the ones in that day's farmers' market weren't as tightly packed as they might have been, though they tasted great).

Cooking Off the Cuff: Braising - It's Not Just for Wintertime

Edward Schneider | Posted 08.05.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

The whole affair, in fact, was tender and delicious. And summery, evoking flavors of Greece for one guest (which validated the "à la grecque" tag for the artichoke preparation).

Cooking Off the Cuff: For a Quick Pasta Dinner, Open a Can of Tuna

Edward Schneider | Posted 07.29.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

You could make this with a regular storage onion and even with frozen peas. And maybe I will some time as a reminder of our lovely summer pasta.

Cooking Off The Cuff: A Flourless Chocolate-Almond Cake From Naples Via London

Edward Schneider | Posted 07.22.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

It was every bit as good as anything we ate in Naples, and almost, but not quite, a match for the Café Murano version.

[Not] Cooking Off the Cuff: My Latest Vacation To-Cook List

Edward Schneider | Posted 07.15.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Here are a few things we've eaten that might lend themselves to home cooking.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Frittatine -- Fried Mac-n-Cheese By Not Just Any Other Name

Edward Schneider | Posted 07.08.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

I'd forgotten that frittatine were on my post-vacation to-cook list. What reminded me to try making this Neapolitan snack staple -- which amounts to fried macaroni and cheese -- was a post on Twitter that depicted a macaroni pie, something that is evidently highly prized in Scotland and is an object of good-humored derision in many other places. (To me it sounds as if it might be addictive; I'll try one some time.)

Cooking Off the Cuff: The Best Crisp Potato Whatchamacallit

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.23.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

It takes forethought but not much by way of technical skill or ingredients. It is also a thing of beauty.

Cooking Off the Cuff: Without Eggplant It Isn't Pasta Alla Norma - But It's Still Delicious

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.24.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

A lovely dish: lighter in flavor than pasta alla Norma and hence more springlike, but still identifiably Sicilian.

Cooking Off the Cuff: A Simple Sicilian Way With Swordfish - With a Light Sauce as Equal Partner

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.17.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

This was a very sunny dish, though I probably say that because for us it evoked Sicily.

Cooking off the Cuff: In Naples, Taralli Are NOT Teething Rings

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.09.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Many older recipes lack almonds, so you can join me in ignoring them.

Cooking Off The Cuff: Ricotta Ravioli With A Twist Or Two

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.03.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

There are lots of other ways to turn a container of ricotta into a great pasta filling.

Cooking Off The Cuff: How To Make Three Meals From One Bag Of Spring Produce

Edward Schneider | Posted 05.27.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

There's something about the edgy flavor of dill that mates it well with so many things in so many cuisines.

[Not] Cooking Off The Cuff: New Ideas From Sicily And Naples

Edward Schneider | Posted 05.13.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

I'll pick just a few that will be joining -- or at least influencing -- the home cooking repertoire back in New York.

Cooking Off The Cuff: Mushrooms Make The Meatloaf (Duck Doesn't Hurt Either)

Edward Schneider | Posted 05.06.2016 | Home
Edward Schneider

Do not fail to cook down a basket of mushrooms into a paste and add them to your next meatloaf.

Cooking Off The Cuff: Stop! Don't Grate That Parmesan

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.29.2015 | Home
Edward Schneider

Parmesan chunks used in this way have a lot of potential.

Cooking Off The Cuff: That Ain't Hay (Oh, Yes It Is)

Edward Schneider | Posted 06.21.2015 | Home
Edward Schneider

Cooking with -- or in -- hay pops up on the culinary radar screen, but until last week I'd never done anything about it.