Here was the early New York Times food editor who made gastronomy a respectable profession, a restaurant critic in a world that did not know the term, the guy who brought us arugula, pesto, nuoc mam, and the salad spinner.
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Long before chefs were made of iron and "barefoot" brought to mind "contessa" and a cultured 9-year-old could tell farfalle from fusilli at 10 feet, a...
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