The French have been reading the tea leaves. Despite or perhaps because of recent violence, there seemed a new spirit of generosity towards tourists, if not to migrants. So many Americans are trooping off to art fairs. Why not also visit the most exciting performance festivals, many in France, which have a multicultural, often political, contemporary perspective? And a spate of private, hidden-away sites has also opened to the public which document the intensity of the lives and work of artists.