Glenn Harris, chef of The Smith in New York City, doesn't cut back on the butter in his iconic macaroni and cheese recipe. He uses whole milk and heavy cream. And he uses four -- count 'em -- four types of cheese. He's not apologetic about it. That's because after one bite of the stuff, you'll be silenced.
Arguably unacceptable in intellectuals during this era of springbok-cheek custard, our approach to food is as different from occasionally desiring comfort foods: Being a childlike diner is neither a personality flaw nor a quirk nor a mere emergency measure. It is an orientation, a permanent trait of which we might as well be proud.