It's hidden in the back of the darkened lobby bar at the Kirketon Hotel. Like, really hidden. Push through the entrance during a weekend night and the space erupts with booming pop music and boozy laughter.
I am not here to tell anyone what proportions of vermouth to have, or whether you should order it shaken or not. I simply want to enlighten those of you who were born after WWII as to how it was done then.