The location itself, above partner Mark Connell's dive bar institution, Botanica, and beside Milano's, is something of a revelation -- a stubborn lily growing up between two slabs of concrete. Then, at the core of it, there's the food.
I traveled to an unfamiliar corner of New Jersey, discovered Beecher's underground restaurant, stopped in for the first time at a restaurant I often pass (Saxon & Parole) and ventured to Copenhagen by way of Tribeca.
Within the last year, the new Neapolitans have pushed the envelope, exhuming something their grandmothers made, adapting it, and driving pizza-mad New Yorkers madder still with -- are you ready? -- deep-fried pizza, called montanara.