So Chef - when I put my dinner in your hands, don't crowd the stage with supporting actors. Please give me a well-executed entree; a star - recommended for my tastes by your kitchen. And then if your star does its job - I'm sure to remember it.
I can support brutal honesty. I cannot support gleeful cruelty. Inventive? Sure. Over the top? Too much for a generally sober-sided publication. Piercing arrows in critics' quivers? Yes. Thermonuclear weapons? No.
Summer is the season for BBQ, and this summer, Texas BBQ is getting a lot of attention in New York. But there's more to Texan cuisine than BBQ, and food-forward Brooklyn is now home to New York's most recent Texan import: the Kolache.
A great many chefs have long been troubled and angered, by the star system. It's a square-peg-round-hole situation. Yet nationwide, newspapers continue to insist that their critics employ the star system as though nothing's changed the past few generations.