Whoever wins the Billabong Pipe Masters this week -- Gabriel Medina, Mick Fanning or Kelly Slater -- will be the last man to ever win the Association ...
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When I was 13, I was attacked by a 14-foot tiger shark while surfing in Kauai, Hawaii, and lost my left arm. Through hard work and perseverance, I went on to win a national surfing title and turn pro.
While surfing (like most sports) can be a transcendent unifier, it has also developed an astoundingly ironic and nuanced culture. To a large extent, surf culture thrives on divisiveness.
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