If you know how to skimboard, you know that it usually looks like this:
But, most of the time, it actually looks like this:
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This week's episode features an exclusive interview with the greatest big wave surfer on the planet Greg Long.
While walking on the Puerto Escondido beach as the sun turned red, I passed a young Italian with a surfboard. He had just taken his first surfing less...
Julio, my smiling surfer instructor, has gorgeous tattoos on his arms. One says: "Dios es magia, y Magia es Dios!"
I wondered what it was like to be such a squooshy being, and he perhaps wondered why I was so big.
My conversation during a cool summery taxi ride back to my apartment in Puerto Escondido.
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