There are many ways to critique an art form such as cooking, and like most art forms, the way one sees it differs from one to the other. Opinions are, with no need to repeat a vulgar idiom, commonplace. Everyone has an opinion when it comes to food, even picky four-year-olds.
A great many chefs have long been troubled and angered, by the star system. It's a square-peg-round-hole situation. Yet nationwide, newspapers continue to insist that their critics employ the star system as though nothing's changed the past few generations.