Portuguese sailors who risked washing up on its deadly shore called this desolate region that runs north from of the coastal resort town of Swakopmund to the Angolan border the "The Gates of Hell." The Bushmen called it "The Land God Made in Anger." The Skeleton Coast is all those things, but undeniably beautiful too.
Why did the hippo cross the road? On a rutted, dusty track through Akagera National Park in northeastern Rwanda, the answer to this question raised more than the aberrant mid-morning snacking habits of a wandering hippo. For me, it revealed the delicate balance between expectations and limitations, and learning to trust a grander sense of timing.