History and beauty are not the only reasons Japanese choose which of the hundreds of temples and shrines to put on their Kyoto to-do lists. For centuries (and longer) certain shrines have made a reputation for themselves as especially lucky in love.
Ieyasu's shrine to himself and the mighty samurai class, Toshogu, was one of only a tiny number of buildings in the area that managed to survive this fierce final battle. So in-your-face reformers! Don't mess with this Shogun, even in death.
At Tokyo's airport I kissed Michael 'goodbye' and gave him my address in New York, but after a few letters, I never heard from him again. 'Tokyo Michael' was how I remembered him and don't regret one moment we spent together.