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The day I realized I could let go of all the plans, relationship fears and dialogues in my head because the ocean was there to hold both them and me. That happened to be the same day I stood up for the first time, and surfed.
These are women challenging not just the extreme uncertainties of the ocean, but also societal expectations and themselves.
Sal and Julio say that, growing up in Oakland, potato chips from the local liquor store and McDonald's french fries were the only "vegetables" they were accustomed to eating.
It wasn't just the image focus that wore on me, I was tired of amplifying these tragic stories. I wanted, instead, to promote inspiring ones. My agent told me that job didn't exist. So I quit.
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