On Dec. 25 big wave legend Ken Bradshaw was on the phone. A northwest swell was storming in with wave faces exceeding 35 feet. Could I get to Waimea Beach ASAP, he wanted to know?
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In the ocean and life, we more often fail to launch ourselves because of our ideas about perfection than anything else. You think maybe the next wave will be better and let the current one pass you by.
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