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Olivia Katrandjian

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A Woman's Guide to Visiting Egypt

Posted: 10/28/11 02:39 PM ET

When I told my parents I was going to Egypt, they freaked out. My dad, who was sure I'd come home in a body bag, threatened to steal my passport. Such are the views of a conservative father with only one daughter. Even when that daughter is 24 years old.

I made it to Cairo, one week after the attack on the Israeli embassy there, and while I wasn't afraid of violence, I was worried -- well, curious -- about being a woman in Egypt, not to mention an American one. I looked for information on what to wear and watch out for as a female tourist in Egypt, but couldn't find a comprehensive guide. So, ladies, here's what you need to know.

While Egypt is a Muslim country, it is much more progressive than other Arab nations. Some women wear a niqab (a veil covering the face), others wear a hijab (a covering of the hair and neck but not the face) and still others do not cover their heads at all. Women are not required by law to follow a dress code, so as a tourist, you can wear whatever you'd like; some people do. But whatever comfort you might find in wearing minimal clothing in the heat will be cancelled out by the discomfort of having men stare and yell at you. Save the push-up bras and cleavage-bearing tops for your next trip to Brazil.

You do not need to cover your head in Egypt, but dress modestly. Wear pants or long skirts. Cairo is hot, so loose fitting pants are going to be more comfortable than a pair of skinny jeans. It is also dusty and dirty, so white clothing will appear soiled far more quickly than clothing of other colors.

Sunglasses are a must, not only because it's bright out but also because they make it easier to avoid making eye contact with men on the street. If you find yourself without shades, don't look men in the eye -- it's considered a form of flirtation.

Before my trip, I was warned that outside Egypt's major cities the locals are much more conservative and that you must dress accordingly. But I found the opposite to be true. I took a cruise down the Nile and stopped at major tourist sites like the Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple. With the exception of a few souvenir dealers, everyone at these sites is a tourist, and they dress as such. Among tourists, you can wear what you want (within reason). There's no point in sweating it out in long pants and a long-sleeved shirt if everyone around you is in shorts.

While you don't need to wear a headscarf, it's not a bad idea to carry around a lightweight pashmina in case you go into a mosque and want to cover your head. In the more conservative mosques, if you're not completely covered, they will ask you to wear a bathrobe-type garment.

"Your conservative equals their slightly-less-scandalous, so skinny jeans need a long shirt, and even a high-neck shirt must either be loose or be layered with a loose sweater. There are many occasions where you can wear whatever you want at your destination, but the transportation and walking in between is the killer," said Alison, an American journalist who has been living in downtown Cairo for two years. So while a cocktail dress is perfectly acceptable attire at many parties, walking the streets in one is another matter altogether.

"Egyptians are very friendly and outgoing people," said Alison. "You can certainly socialize, but while in the US (or Lebanon for that matter) it's perfectly acceptable to talk to a stranger at a bar, be aware that this is not part of the Egyptian culture. When Egyptians go out at night, they do not interact with others outside their immediate group. So be yourself and enjoy the hospitality, but keep the rules of the locals in the back of your mind."

Expect harassment, ranging from harmless flirtation -- men will call you sukar (sugar), mozza (banana), butta (duck) and ask how many camels you cost -- to men staring at you, following you, grabbing your chest or butt and verbally harassing you. This is less common than flirtation, but nevertheless common. Avoid walking alone at night.

"It happens to all women in Cairo at some point, but do not be afraid of taking public transportation, like the metro, or going to certain areas, because there is no pattern of location," said Alison.

According to a report by the Egyptian Center for Women's Rights titled "Harassment: The Social Cancer," 98 percent of foreign female visitors to Egypt and 83 percent of Egyptian women experienced some degree of sexual harassment, and 62 percent of Egyptian men admitted to harassing women, both foreign and local.

There is always the potential for unwanted attention from men, but if you use common sense and dress appropriately, you can relax and enjoy Egypt's rich history, abundance of archeological sites, and delicious cuisine.

 
When I told my parents I was going to Egypt, they freaked out. My dad, who was sure I'd come home in a body bag, threatened to steal my passport. Such are the views of a conservative father with only ...
When I told my parents I was going to Egypt, they freaked out. My dad, who was sure I'd come home in a body bag, threatened to steal my passport. Such are the views of a conservative father with only ...
 
 
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Sasa Milosevic
Impression without expression is depression
02:10 PM on 11/01/2011
I visited Egypt in 2009 and 2010.

In 2009 I was in Hurghada Resort, Red Sea, Island Giftun, Luxor, Hatsepshut Temple. It was really great vacation. I was warned as a a tourist not to try to "kill" coral as a souvenir, becuse it is punishable by Egyptian law. There is a special scanner on the airport for identification of corals in the bag. The fine is $5000 if you are arresting. Corals are guardians of Read Sea ecology.

In 2010, I visited Alexandria and Cairo. If any of you want good tourist guide I can recommend you ms Kerima. She guided me two days across Cairo:

First day in afternoon: Cairo Museum. Tahir Square and Old Market Khan El Khalili.
Second day: Citadela, Islamic Cairo, Coptic Cairo, Pyramids

Second day we rented taxi with driver ( 8h/30 euros). He was everywhere with us. He waited us while we were observing these historical places. They came to take me in my hotel after breakfast.

Also if you want good, modesty and not expensive hotel I warmly recommend small hotel I found over Internet. Havana hotel. It is located in Mohandseen. They even sent me free car to take me at airport. The driver waited me with table ( name of hotel). You can also order taxi in hotel to bring you to airport when you are leaving Egypt.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294201-d605882-r58343695-Havana_Hotel-Cairo.html
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
KIVPossum
Moldova Marsupial
08:47 AM on 10/30/2011
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit in Muslim lands, and it's always the same. She dresses modestly, never a sleeveless blouse and hemlines mid-calf or lower. But, from Tunis to Tashkent, if I am with her she is treated with respect; if I am not she is considered fair game and pawed relentlessly. In Baku she returned from the market with fingerprint bruises on her breast.
03:36 PM on 10/29/2011
"Sunglasses are a must, not only because it's bright out but also because they make it easier to avoid making eye contact with men on the street. If you find yourself without shades, don't look men in the eye -- it's considered a form of flirtation."

"Expect harassment, ranging from harmless flirtation -- men will call you sukar (sugar), mozza (banana), butta (duck) and ask how many camels you cost -- to men staring at you, following you, grabbing your chest or butt and verbally harassing you."

Absurd, but not very surprising. BTW, people who accept misogyny for reasons of "cultural difference" are no better than the misogynists and the toxic environment they promote for women.
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budanatr
US Expat in EU
10:21 AM on 10/29/2011
If you are not comfortable with a country's culture, don't go there.

If tourists stop going to places where people are treated badly then maybe the behavior in those places will change.
08:18 AM on 10/29/2011
I think that, if men will not listen to reason, then they deserve to be held down and have their testicles Tasered every time they act like louts toward women. The rule should be, without exception and without mercy, HANDS OFF.
08:12 AM on 10/29/2011
This is such a biased article, it is ridiculous.

I am a young American female whole traveled around Egypt alone for one month, two weeks of that in Cairo. As others have said common sense is key. Of course tight or revealing clothing is going to draw unwanted attention, just as it does in the US. I was never harassed in Egypt and I went everywhere alone: tourists attractions, mosques, movie theaters, markets, including at night. Yes, I was often stared at, but I just continued to go on about my business and it stopped. Yes, you are in a foreign country and things are going to be different. Adjust. I have felt more unsafe and harassed in the US and Europe (where I live) then I ever was in Egypt.
06:53 PM on 10/30/2011
Thank you so much about the fair insight
01:29 AM on 10/29/2011
Oliva, all I can say is I wish I had read this post BEFORE I spent two weeks in Egypt (Cario and Alexandria). You are 100% on point.

My experience: Having traveled to Egypt with my boyfriend (mostly to see the pyramids, take in all the history) I can say, if you are not with a large group/tour guide, do not travel here!!! I am a very friendly outgoing person who is not afraid to take risks, but also very aware of my surroundings. With that being said, the minute I stepped of the plane (in yoga pants, a sweater, and gym shoes) I was immediately harassed by a group of 10-20 middle aged men at the airport. By using the term "harassed" I specifically mean being whistled at, lips smacking, eyes winking, clapping, and even a few men touching rubbing my arms. I felt like I was dressed in a bikini or something.

Keep in mind, I was with my boyfriend, so I was not a single female. I could not imagine what it would be like if I were to have been alone....there is not a chance I would have left my hotel room with out the fear of rape. The entire trip I felt degraded, harassed, and very uncomfortable. I wanted to leave a week early, but it couldn't be done.

If you are a white American women and MUST be traveling to Egypt, beware and be careful.
02:38 AM on 10/29/2011
I've been to Egypt. I went horseback riding at the pyramids. It was very memorable.

Regarding being whistled at, you must understand that not all cultures are the same. If a woman were to be walking the streets completely naked in the United States, she's going to get stared at and some men might comment. Wearing tight pants in a conservative country will get the same reaction. We can't expect other cultures to share our ultra-liberal dress codes.
08:15 AM on 10/29/2011
I like how 'culture' can be cited for bad behaviour. That's so cute.
trish333
Tea will be served in 2012. Lemon or sugar?
12:50 AM on 10/29/2011
Yuck, no thanks. Apparently, ridding themselves of a dictator has done nothing for their cave dwelling manners.
11:58 PM on 10/28/2011
After the experience of Lara Logan -- If you don't know about it, see here:

http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/showtracker/2011/05/lara-logan-breaks-her-silence-on-60-minutes-.html

I would be VERY hesitant to visit Egypt, even though I very much want to.
10:40 PM on 10/28/2011
Olivia, you're not fair. you said little right things about EGYPT OK but also you are taking about What Should any Women Wear in EGYPT? no one in Egypt give any concern about what you wear OK , second thing about the Sexual Harassment, When Did You Visit EGYPT? after the revolution, till now there is no police to safe us, we're still fighting for our rights, bad economic situations and elections fights and EGYPT is still the most safe place in this world (by american friends). yeah you are right that there are some Egyptians do some bad stuff (harassment) but the majority of the Egyptian people are kind, friendly and moderate , about 60% of Egyptians under 35 years old . the last thing MOUZA means pretty beautiful girl (Like you) , sorry about my language . Greetings From EGYPT
RTIII
Poster of over 0.0135% of all HufPost comments
10:12 AM on 10/29/2011
So says a man.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ljkcan
Yes, I am prone to spelling errors
10:01 PM on 10/28/2011
My Armenian husband was born in Cairo he had planned to take our son with him for a visit but then came the Arab spring. He would not take our 24 year old daughter for the exact reasons you state.
He has told me how men will grab your ass and quite frankly the view of western women is reduced to that of a sharmota.

She spent 4 months teaching in Paraguay and was subjected to the same sort of treatmen by men in the village where she was posted. I think the same can be said of many countries dress in a modest way and avoid eye contact but don't let it prevent you from seeing the world you are only young once.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Olivia Katrandjian
Journalist and Travel Writer
11:22 AM on 10/31/2011
My Armenian father was also born in Cairo!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ljkcan
Yes, I am prone to spelling errors
02:19 PM on 10/31/2011
Cairo was home to many Armenians, although now the majority live in Canada or the US..
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ninette
08:48 PM on 10/28/2011
I lived in Egypt for many years, and most of what the author said is correct. But the funny thing is that, before the revolution and the ensuing chaos that is reigning right now, Egypt was swamped with tourists from all over Europe and Asia. The women wore bikinis and some were topless at the resorts of the Red Sea, and dressed with shorts and tank tops in the middle of Cairo. Only the Americans were missing. I am not surprised, when I read some of the comments on this board. There is so much ignorance and stereotyping about this great country, and I think people should not be forming opinions of something they don't know or have not experienced. Italian men are as aggressively flirty as the Egyptians, and I can assure you that women CAN and DO walk alone at night - if not only because most of the street are never empty of people.
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tracyamanda
Do people even read these?
11:25 PM on 10/28/2011
It's one thing to be flirty and quite another to grab a women's butt and boobs. If this is a common occurrance that women must face than I wouldn't call it that great of a place to visit.
01:06 AM on 10/29/2011
While I would agree that those actions are inappropriate, it is important to note that Egypt is not the only place they occur and they are (by far) not the only actions that do occur here. As an American who has lived here for over a decade I can honestly say that while these types of experiences happen on occasion I have had far more of this type of harassment on the streets of New York city than I ever have here in Cairo. Unfortunately when westerners travel they tend to interpret situations through lenses that they would never use when "home". Just because something bad happens when you are away from home doesn't mean it should be considered a unique non-American phenomenon. AND just because it happens on occasion does not mean it is the ultimate example of a country's behavior. There are millions of hospitable, kind-hearted and amazingly welcoming MEN in Egypt. Please consider the bigger picture when painting only a slice of life in a shortly-visited community.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ninette
02:34 AM on 10/29/2011
Some women tourists are so clueless and walk around in this conservative country as if they are going to the beach. They unwittingly send a message to these guys that they are permissive. Those using common sense have nothing to complain about. But then again, have we forgotten that some years back a French tourist walking with her husband in Central Park was attacked by a gang during an event there and completely stripped of her clothes?
01:14 AM on 10/29/2011
In regards to your statement of "Italian men are as aggressively flirty as the Egyptians" - this is completely inaccurate and I myself would say pure ignorance. Have you been to Italy, Ninette? Let me tell you, as an American woman visiting Egypt, I have never felt as humiliated, degraded, and downright treated like a piece of meat anywhere in my life. I've been to Italy, and the men (and women) had nothing but respect for me and others. The Egyptian people (men mostly, but a few women) would literally harass me in the streets as soon as they saw my white skin and light brown hair. I was forced to cover myself completely in the 90 degree dry heat. My two week Egyptian vacation turned into a survival test for me. I wish I had known THE TRUTH about the way women are treated in Egypt before I booked my trip.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ninette
02:21 AM on 10/29/2011
I not only passed through Italy, but did live there too, and have been pursued and harrassed by Italians on so many occasions not because I was scantily dressed but because way back, I looked attractive. As for women being considered pieces of meat, just look at our pop culture here in the States. Women plastered all over the magazines, in movies, naked and half naked. Actresses seem to understand that the only way for them to get ahead is to pose with their clothes off . So please, spare me your complaints about Egyptian men if you are so oblivious at how women are treated here in our own backyards.
08:34 PM on 10/28/2011
This applies to many countries in the world...definitely not particular to Egypt...having been there, I loved it and felt comfortable there
08:33 PM on 10/28/2011
There are also women only subway cars (a kind of protected space) and separate lines for men and women to buy the government subsidized bread (the only kind my Egyptian husband will buy). It helps to know these things in advance so people don't think you are being risqué by standing in the wrong bread line!
08:04 PM on 10/28/2011
Grow up, Egyptian men. Your behavior -- that of far too many of you -- is not that of adults or gentlemen of any religion or social group. You do your culture a disservice.