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Peggy Knickerbocker

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Fennel Reveals Another Aspect

Posted: 07/19/2011 3:30 pm

I adore fennel and cook with it often. I grind the seeds of wild fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) for olive oil-fennel bread and pastries. The fronds and tender shoots make an excellent pesto and can be formed into little patties that get sauteed in olive oil until golden brown. I slice up the bulb of Florence fennel (the kind most often sold in America) for salads and cook it along side a roasting chicken or braise it with fish. But until recently, I'd never tried fennel pollen -- the yellowish dust that drifts off the blossoms of the green feathery plant. If angels sprinkled a spice from their wings, this would be it.


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I first encountered fennel pollen in the Tuscan village of Panzano-in-Chianti, where butcher Dario Cecchini harvests it from fennel growing wild in the region and uses it to flavor the pork and poultry that he sells. Its heady, honey-like, herbaceous aroma was so intoxicating that I bought several bags of the stuff. Back home in San Francisco, I sprinkled a pinch of it on fish before grilling. I scattered a bit over roasted vegetables, and then I tried it on a pork roast. The effect, in every case, was positively transformative.

When summer came, I replenished my pollen cache by harvesting my own -- easy, since fennel grows all over California (it is said that Italian immigrants brought it here in the 1800s). Across the street from my house on Hyde Street, I gathered blossoms, plunged them headfirst into paper bags, and hung them in my cellar for a few weeks, whacking the bags occasionally with a good kick to release the pollen.

Watch for fennel flowers in your neighborhood, in vacant lots and parks and along the road in the countryside of the Bay Area. Just hang the bags of the inverted fennel flowers in a dry spot, et voila, you'll have your own.

 
I adore fennel and cook with it often. I grind the seeds of wild fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) for olive oil-fennel bread and pastries. The fronds and tender shoots make an excellent pesto and can be fo...
I adore fennel and cook with it often. I grind the seeds of wild fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) for olive oil-fennel bread and pastries. The fronds and tender shoots make an excellent pesto and can be fo...
 
 
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12:34 PM on 07/25/2011
Wild fennel flowers are wonderful. I was buying the fennel pollen at I Preferiti di Boriana
before it closed. Pollen Ranch also sells it in small tins and mixed with other herbs/spices as well. If you haven't tried it you should do so as it's marvelous.
03:42 PM on 07/22/2011
I dunno. I was out weeding around my fennel plants earlier this week and suddenly started
sneezing uncontrollably. Interesting concept though, never heard of collecting pollen for a condiment before.
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11:49 PM on 07/19/2011
I have beautiful Bronze Fennel in my yard. It is worth growing for the beneficial insects that it attracts also.