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Peter Hatch

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Thomas Jefferson's Legacy in Gardening and Food

Posted: 09/13/10 01:03 PM ET

Jefferson's Monticello garden was a Revolutionary American garden. One wonders if anyone else had ever before assembled such a collection of vegetable novelties, culled from virtually every western culture known at the time, then disseminated by Jefferson with the persistence of a religious reformer, a seedy evangelist. Here grew the earth's melting pot of immigrant vegetables: an Ellis Island of introductions, the whole world of hardy economic plants: 330 varieties of eighty-nine species of vegetables and herbs, 170 varieties of the finest fruit varieties known at the time. The Jefferson legacy supporting small farmers, vegetable cuisine, and sustainable agriculture is poignantly topical today.

Thomas Jefferson liked to eat vegetables, which "constitute my principal diet," and his role in linking the garden with the kitchen into a cuisine defined as "half French, half Virginian" was a pioneering concept in the history of American food. The Monticello kitchen, as well as the table at the President's House in Washington, expressed a seething broil of new, culinary traditions based on these recent garden introductions: French fries, peanuts, Johnny-cakes, gumbo, mashed potatoes, sweet potato pudding, sesame seed oil, fried eggplant, perhaps such American icons as potato chips, tomato catsup, and pumpkin pie. The western traditions of gardening - in England, France, Spain, the Mediterranean - were blended into a dynamic and unique Monticello cookery through the influence of emerging colonial European, native American, slave, Creole and southwestern vegetables.

Jefferson, according to culinary historian Karen Hess, was "our most illustrious epicure, in fact, our only epicurean President," and his devotion to fresh produce, whether in the President's House at a state dinner, or at Monticello for the large numbers of celebrity tourists who crowded the retired President's table, remains a central legacy of Jefferson's gardening career. Jefferson also promoted commercial market gardening. The remarkable calendar he compiled while President, delineating the first and last appearance of thirty-seven vegetables in the Washington DC farmer's market, is among the most revelatory documents in the history of American food. As well, it was Jefferson himself who obtained new vegetable varieties from foreign consuls, passed them on to Washington market gardeners, and ordered his maitre 'd to pay the highest prices for the earliest produce.

In 1792 Jefferson, while serving as Secretary of State in Philadelphia, received a letter from his daughter, Martha, complaining about the insect-riddled plants in the Monticello Vegetable Garden. His response is a stirring anthem to the organic gardening movement. "We will try this winter to cover our garden with a heavy coating of manure. When is rich it bids defiance to droughts, yields in abundance, and of the best quality. I suspect that the insect which have harassed you have been encouraged by the feebleness of your plants; and that has been produced by the lean state of the soil." Jefferson's rallying cry on the remedial value of manure, the horticultural rewards of soil improvement, has inspired gardeners of all kinds.

Jefferson not only enjoyed the garden process and relished eating fresh produce, but the garden also functioned as an experimental laboratory, in some ways, as a vehicle for social change. He wrote that, "the greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to its culture," and Jefferson ranked the introduction of the olive tree and upland rice into the United States with his authorship of the Declaration of Independence.

A Johnny Appleseed of the vegetable world, Jefferson passed out seeds of his latest novelty with messiahinistic fervor: not only to friends and neighbors like George Divers and John Hartwell Cocke, his family of daughters, granddaughters, and sons in law, but to fellow politicians - from George Washington to James Madison -- and the leading plantsmen of the early nineteenth century like McMahon, William Bartram, William Hamiton of Philadelphia, and Andre Thouin of Paris. Although few species can be proven as Jefferson introductions into American gardens, the recitation of vegetables grown at Monticello is a meditative chant of rare, unusual, and pioneering species: asparagus bean, sea kale, tomatoes, rutabaga, lima beans, okra, potato pumpkins, winter melons, tree onion, peanuts, "sprout kale," serpentine cucumbers, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussells sprouts, orach, endive, peanuts, chick peas, cayenne pepper, "esculent Rhubarb," black salsify, sesame, eggplant.

Although a modest endeavor, Jefferson's only published horticultural work was "A General Gardening Calendar," a monthly guide to kitchen gardening that appeared in a May 21, 1824 edition of the American Farmer, a Baltimore periodical of progressive agriculture. Here Jefferson authoritatively instructed gardeners to plant a thimble spool of lettuce seed every Monday morning from February 1 to September 1, as if the Monday morning lettuce sowing was a life lesson or discipline akin to dutifully saying your prayers or cleaning one's dinner plate; the rites of Monday morning led to a long life, happiness, and good teeth.

Michelle Obama recently declared that the White House kitchen garden "has been one of the greatest things I've done in my life so far." An admirer of Thomas Jefferson and inspired by a visit to the Monticello garden, White House chef and Coordinator of the White House Food Initiative, Sam Kass, reserved a discrete section of this garden in honor of Thomas Jefferson. In the spring of 2009 it was planted with seeds and plants of Thomas Jefferson's favorite vegetable varieties: Tennis-ball and Brown Dutch lettuce, Prickly-seeded spinach and Marseilles fig. The Jefferson legacy in gardening and food is not a mere historical curiosity, but is a compelling force in the movement toward a more sustainable agricultural future.

This year's Heritage Harvest Festival will took place on September 11, 2010, and was held at Monticello for the first time, where the recently renovated dining room, wine cellar, and kitchen were open to the public. For more information please visit: www.heritageharvestfestival.com

Peter Hatch is the Director of Gardens and Grounds at the Thomas Jefferson Foundation.

 
 
 
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11:26 AM on 09/22/2010
This discussion about Jefferson owing slaves is a red herring. You and I are killing the planet every time we turn on the lights or crank up our car. Are we evil people because of the circumstance of our birth? If you were landed gentry in Jefferson's time you most likely owned slaves.

Jefferson's commitment to participatory democracy, as opposed to rule by the elites, is found in the spirit of today's blogs. His love of learning led to the creation if the library of Congress when his book collection was purchased by the government. The list of this remarkable mans achievements can never be underestimated. No he was not a top scientist, but then very few scientist can claim to excel in so many diverse fields of knowledge as Jefferson.

Trying to discredit Jefferson for owning slaves is simply an attempt to smear Jefferson's contributions to this country. Something the Hamiltonian's have been trying to do since the founding of this country.
01:34 AM on 09/23/2010
Jefferson excelled at no science. He wasn't even good at any, other than perhaps agronomy.

Plenty of people born at the same time as Jefferson saw the evils of slavery and fought against it. Jefferson might have himself, had he not valued his own comfort and luxury so highly. He personally embodies the terrible compromise and hypocrisy upon which the country was founded and that better people than Jefferson condemned. In this, and in his romantic mythologizing of agrarian virtue that fed the fantasies of the confederates, he helped allow slavery to continue far longer than it otherwise might have.

We gain nothing by venerating such a man.
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Tadduck
05:22 PM on 09/24/2010
Jefferson excelled at no science??? That is just not true. Jefferson developed the stratification theory which is still used by archaeologists today. Studied him in college in the archaeology courses I took. He is considered the "Father of American Archaeology". He was also the first to take a wedge out of a burial mound by careful scraping, removing delicate artifacts intact instead of just digging from the top down. Burial mounds are still excavated in the wedge fashion today. Don't know enough about his other scientific interests to comment on those - but he did excel at archaeology.
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Doreen1960
10:03 AM on 09/22/2010
Just another reason to admire Thomas..
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JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
01:50 AM on 09/18/2010
Jefferson's vineyard at Monticello has only recently been successful in producing wine grapes in the present day, he wasn't successful at this in his time.
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02:26 AM on 09/27/2010
The grape growers of present day Monticello should be honored, to have made Jefferson's idea finally fructify.
Jefferson also wrote movingly in his letters of the concept of usufruct, or the land belongs to the living, which more or less eliminates debt and the taxation of the unborn.
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Tina Traster
09:57 AM on 09/17/2010
Jeff -- you're an American hero. Doing everything we can to spread the message.
Tina Traster
Author of Burb Appeal: The Collection
http://www.amazon.com/Burb-Appeal-Collection-Humorous-ebook/dp/B0042G0SZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1284411635&sr=1-1
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gginva
05:28 PM on 09/14/2010
Enjoyed talking with you Hematite. Its back to school nite so gotta go. Peace
07:08 PM on 09/14/2010
You too.
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Vernon Brown
12:39 AM on 09/16/2010
As mentioned, you can't look at what was done then with 21st century perspective. I'm hoping we're further ahead in another 200 years.
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coveark
Obstructionists, get off the hill !!!
02:01 PM on 09/14/2010
I enjoyed the article very much.......being active in bringing forth knowledge of so many new foods must have been exhilarating............I loved seeing Monticello a few years ago. It was fascinating. As a foodie and someone who loves to look at antique kitchens etc.......really interesting. I also enjoyed the inventions on display.
the same bed ,separate bedroom idea was fantastic...........It is surprising that in our time such an idea has not been utilized.........
11:23 AM on 09/14/2010
If you're eating food from a supermarket, you're eating food picked by modern day slaves and you are supporting the system of slavery. Commenters latch on to one idea and go off, disregarding the entire point of the article. Congratulations, you can ignore the value of good food (and gardening) by focussing on slavery.
12:46 PM on 09/14/2010
Does modern day slavery or near slavery justify Jefferson?

The "one idea" we "latch on to" is that everything this article praises Jefferson for he did with slave labor, a fact that the article fails to mention. It's kind of an important omission, like writing an article on a garden in a concentration camp, and limiting yourself to praising the beauty of the roses.

In his life Jefferson did all he could to hide his slaves. That was the point of many of the clever architectural innovations of Monticello. It seems that the keepers of Jefferson's legacy are determined to keep up that deceit (do docents at Monticello still refer to slaves as "servants," I wonder?). But any discription of Jefferson the farmer that does no mention slavery is dishonest. This is all the more true of a description that praises him as a visionary. And this is no small point: Jefferson's utopian romanticizing of rural agricultural life and his habit of hiding, rather than confronting, the ugly aspects of that life-- both epitomized in Monticello and in this article-- fed the fantasies of the confederates and is at the root of the very worst of America.
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Neutralino
Opposing pseudoscience 24/7
02:49 PM on 09/14/2010
The fact that Jefferson owned slaves is not exactly secret.

No educated person could read an article about Jefferson's horticultural contribution and not understand that slaves did the heavy lifting at Monticello.
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gginva
03:22 PM on 09/14/2010
The one argument I always have with people over history is that we should not view from a 21st century perspective. "The keepers" as you call them of his legacy have undertaken a massive project to bring slave life on the mountain out of the darkness of history into the light of day so that a complete story of Monticello may be told.Jefferson in his writtings struggled with the question of slavery but understood that America particularly the south wasnt prepared to deal with it .None of this takes away from his intellect or his forward thinking. Visit us here and see there have been many changes incorporating the life of slaves and crediting them for there contribution. As for the The Heritage Harvest Festival this past Saturday it was a wonderful day. Not that it matters but I am a decendent of one of his slaves.
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JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
01:49 AM on 09/18/2010
Sadly in the 21st century there has been very little progress on developing ag robots that harvest vegs and fruit successfully apparently it's still way cheaper to have people come from south of the border to do that work or to get the food from farther away in 3rd world countries or places like China or Chile where some of the quality is doubtful, in addition there may be whining about 'illegal immigrants' but not so much that it hasn't encouraged this fld of robotics. But then again engineers would rather engineer exotic financial products than make ag robots, because it's soooo profitable in this current econ climate.
03:16 AM on 09/19/2010
The desire to replace human harvesters with specialized machines is definitely there, it's just that certain crops are too delicate to be picked by anything but hands, or the process cannot be carried out properly except by trained, skilled labor. Watching harvest, both the fast hand-harvesting workers, and the efficient harvesting machines, is fascinating, at least to me.
11:10 AM on 09/14/2010
Workers, slaves, tomato, tomahto. We're all prisoners to something, and seldom by our own choosing.
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Gronkie
Radical Independent
11:43 PM on 09/20/2010
Except your employer can't sell you to another employer. Unless you are a professional athlete.
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Neutralino
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08:50 AM on 09/14/2010
The comments about Jefferson's ownership of slaves are very revealing. Jefferson knew that he was corrupted by slavery and that his actions were hypocritical. These simple facts shed a lot of light on that nightmarish chapter of history.

However, it is just not true to go from these facts into claims that "Jefferson was a poor scientist" or that "It sure is easy to have a big vegetable garden when you have an army of slaves." Neither idea is true.

If slave ownership made horticulture easy, then why weren't there other horticulturists as successful as Jefferson? Lots of people had more money and more slaves. What he did was NOT easy.

Jefferson's impact on American science and technology was huge.

The principal reason that America became the world's most important manufacturing power during the 19th century is that during the 18th century Jefferson observed technology breakthroughs in France, and he commissioned Eli Whitney to develop similar technology here.

Whitney (and his son) went on to create the mass-production techniques now called "the American system." They followed Jefferson's blueprint for a technological future that has ramifications today.

If Jefferson had devoted more effort to making money and less effort to science in general - horticulture in particular - his life would have been more comfortable, and he would have been in a better position to free his slaves.

Jefferson served as president of the American Philosophical Society - which is like being president of the National Academy of Sciences today.
10:09 AM on 09/14/2010
I said Jefferson was a poor scientist because he was. His theorizing on meteorology and paleontology was 50 years behind the times, and no better than that of any gentleman naturalist of his era: amateurish and superficial.

I did not say that anyone could have built Monticello, or that Jefferson's horticultural work was commonplace. He exercised considerable ingenuity in both, and also maintaining his own ease and comfort, which was the chief principle guiding the design of Monticello. But he did it all with slaves. The fact that he did interesting and creative things with slave labor does not excuse it. Nor does his knowledge of his own hypocrisy. He had the means to live without slaves, but he did not have the means to live in luxury without them. Whatever qualms Jefferson had about the imprisonment of his fellow humans, they were not strong enough to overcome his love of gazing out on his manicured gardens from his study window.

Of course Jefferson was a product of his time and, more importantly, of his place. But the fact that this champion of liberty could not see beyond his time and place when so many of his fellow revolutionaries could is an indelible stain on his character and his place in history.
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Neutralino
Opposing pseudoscience 24/7
11:54 AM on 09/14/2010
I completely agree with everything you say about Jefferson as it relates to him as a slave owner. Indeed, I would go a bit farther; you don't mention the mind-numbing hypocrisy that surrounds his love for Sally Jennings, or his stunning neglect of his mixed-race children.

Yes, he did it all with slaves. This is a fact we must never forget.

But it is just not true that he was an amateurish or superficial naturalist. His book "Notes on the State of Virginia" was a masterpiece of many fields, including naturalism. His advocacy of the Lewis & Clarke expedition was as significant then as NASA is today. HIs contribution to horticulture is dramatic.

But the thing that stands out most historically is the role he played in creating a uniquely American form of technology - an Americanized approach to the Industrial Revolution that went on to conquer the world and to lift the standard of living of all people everywhere.

There is nothing remotely mediocre about the scientific impact he had on the century that followed his life. The fact that such work could be done by someone who was such a bonehead in other aspects of his life makes the history lesson more compelling, not less compelling.

I sometimes worry that the way we view slavery downplays the fact that we have invented more subtle ways to exploit people today. Slavery needs to be seen as one of many ways the powerful exploit the powerless.
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Garrett Weber-Gale
05:44 AM on 09/14/2010
Did you know he saw meat as an accent to the main course. Great point. See what I mean www.athleticfoodie.com
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Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
11:58 PM on 09/13/2010
I love how Jefferson launched scientific horticulture in the US. For his horticulture, I admire him.
11:37 PM on 09/13/2010
Jefferson was a very complex man, who was a fine scientist, farmer, and politician. This country no longer has politicians such a Jefferson or any of the early champions of our country.
11:52 PM on 09/13/2010
Jefferson was a small fish in a smaller pond. He was a poor scientist.
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Neutralino
Opposing pseudoscience 24/7
08:53 PM on 09/13/2010
I'm sure Jefferson would be a huge fan of the genetic engineers who are developing new, healthier varieties of food. He was an enormous fan of science and technology in the service of mankind.

I am not a big fan of Henry Ford - the guy was a beast in many ways - but many of his accomplishments are positive. He gets a lot of credit for establishing soybean farming in America. He recognized that it could boost farm income while enriching the soil, and he was completely correct.

Credit where credit is due, I guess.
07:58 PM on 09/13/2010
It sure is easy to have a big vegetable garden when you have an army of slaves doing the gardening. Writing a whole story about agricultural activities at Monticello without mentioning Jefferson's hypocritical role as a slave master is unforgivable.
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NMGreenChile
09:00 PM on 09/13/2010
This isn't about a "big vegetable garden". Your argument is like saying Henry Ford is hypocritical for conceiving the idea of mass production of automobiles is diminished because he had factory workers produce the cars.
10:57 PM on 09/13/2010
Do you really fail to see a difference between workers and slaves?
09:29 PM on 09/13/2010
This is so weird because I visited Monticello just yesterday. The gardens and farms were truly amazing. This is in no way a defense of Jefferson owning slaves, but according to his records most of his slaves were paid. They received a portion of the crops and were allowed to sell them.
11:09 PM on 09/13/2010
I've visited it many times, having the misfortune of living nearby for a few years. Yes, it is very beautiful and the tours certainly make a lot of that. But the entire thing, from the dumb waiters to the 'servant' passages hidden behind walls, is designed to hide the slavery upon which the whole operation rested.

Jefferson was a slave owner, at a time when most of the civilized world was rejecting slavery as barbaric. He may have been less brutal than most, but in the end it was slavery all the same, regardless of how Monticello docents try to sugar coat it. The hypocrisy of slave owners like Jefferson fighting a war of liberation was not lost on contemporaries. In 1775 Samuel Johnson asked "How is it that we hear the loudest yelps for liberty among the drivers of Negroes?" Jefferson's own hand-wringing over slavery hardly forgives him. His fantasies of an agrarian utopia inhabited by gentlemen farmers hinged on slavery, and in the end he preferred those fantasies-- which grew and festered into the disease that was the confederacy-- to the lives of the human beings he owned.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
11:50 PM on 09/13/2010
Prisoners who work prison jobs are also paid. That doesn't actually mitigate the fact that they are not FREE.