One of my great treats is being literally all alone (with a fine local guide) at some of our civilization's greatest sights. With this clip, you're here with me -- late in the day when it's silent and cool -- at Epidavros, the most amazing theater surviving from the ancient world. After visiting so many museums here in Greece, I couldn't help but notice how my guide, Patty, actually has an "archaic" smile -- perfectly matching the enigmatic little grin you see on the statues from Greece's Archaic Period (500 to 700 B.C.), before the Golden Age came and saddled us with reality.
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