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Enjoying Steak Dinner at Osteria dell'Acquacheta

05/18/2015 05:11 pm ET | Updated May 18, 2016

High-intensity travel makes me hungry -- especially in Italy. The one meal I've been looking forward to more than any other is a big steak dinner at Osteria dell'Acquacheta in Montepulciano. Warning: Vegetarians may want to skip this post.

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They jam the place for four seatings (two for lunch and two for dinner) every day. It's a long room with communal tables under a medieval barrel vault. In the back, like the engine of a steam train, a fire roars behind a huge hunk of cow lying flat as if on a gurney.

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You don't have much of a choice here. Giulio, who reminds me of George Carlin with a cleaver, parades through the room with slabs of beef for diners to consider. It costs about €3 per 100 grams (about $3 per quarter-pound), and they serve 1.6 kilos of beef for each couple (about $50 for two). You don't say how you want it cooked. There's a correct way: seven minutes on each side. Fifteen minutes after, you say, "OK, it's chow time."

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Every few seconds the happy sound of "George Carlin" slamming his cleaver through the beef rockets through the room -- stoking every appetite under that old, brick-domed ceiling.

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Osteria dell'Acquacheta brings out the carnivore in all its guests.

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Vegetarians won't enjoy this restaurant. But she sure did.