One of my fondest memories of traveling in Greece as a student back in the 1970s was gliding by boat through the Pyrgos Dirou Caves. Now, a generation later, I've returned, and the experience was the same -- a boatman poled us along beautifully lit canals from one stalactite to the next for about a kilometer. (It costs about $15 for 30 minutes.) My guide, Niki, translated the boatman's scant narration as I savored the natural wonder, the coolness and the way the sound of dripping water cut through the silence.
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