I enjoyed updating our Istanbul guidebook's Grand Bazaar chapter. While the main streets of the vast market are jam-packed with cruise groups and other tourists, explore into the back lanes and you find yourself far from the tourist scene. I was able to peek into amazing and surprising worlds. At this shop I was impressed by complexity of making a simple gilded ribbon for fancy local clothing. In Istanbul, when you stumble into something interesting, it generally comes with a warm welcome and the offer of a cup of tea.