Robert Creamer

Robert Creamer

Posted: February 8, 2010 09:37 AM

What the Iconic Labor Battle at Hugo Boss Means for Our Economic Future

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It's the red carpet season in Hollywood. That means high-end apparel companies like Hugo Boss are promoting iconic celebrities to wear their clothing line at the Oscars and other award ceremonies.

But for the workers who make these suits in Cleveland, Ohio, it's a season of a different shade -- that of the pink slip. And the result is an iconic labor battle that is emblematic of many of the most important issues facing our economy.

Just after Christmas, Germany-based Hugo Boss messengered pink slips to the 400 employees at its Cleveland, Ohio manufacturing facility. The employees were told that they were being laid off and the plant was being closed.

Hugo Boss was not closing the facility because it was losing money -- or, for that matter, because the company was in bad financial condition. Quite the contrary.

Its annual report says that: "Despite the global economic crisis... HUGO BOSS held its ground over the course of the year. In particular, toward the end of the year some initial positive trends were visible. In the fourth quarter sales revenues were slightly above the previous year's ..."

Not only is the whole company profitable, there is every indication that the Cleveland plant is profitable as well.

So why is Hugo Boss shuttering its Cleveland operation and sending 400 American workers onto unemployment lines? Simple. The workers at the plant refused a company demand that their wages be cut by almost a third -- from $12 per hour to $8 and change.

The company refused to discuss counter-offers, and rejected out of hand a package of incentives proposed by state and local officials to save the plant.

Now let's remember that these workers weren't making exorbitant incomes to begin with. Twelve dollars an hour is only about $25,000 a year. The average CEO of a large American corporation (making $10.5 million per year) earns that much in the first five hours of the first work day of the year.

No matter, the executives at Hugo Boss think they can make more money if they move the jobs of the Cleveland workers to Turkey and China, where they can get workers to manufacture their suits for even less.

If something isn't done to alter their decision, the Hugo Boss plant in Cleveland will stop making suits in April of this year.

There are four key lessons for the American economy from the Hugo Boss story:

Lesson # 1. Every time we allow the executives of international corporations to maximize their own wealth by paying their workers less and less, we allow them to place all of us in economic jeopardy.

The root of the current Great Recession was the reckless speculation of a bloated financial sector that was swimming in the money it has squeezed from ordinary Americans who actually produce things for a living. That shift of income from everyday people to corporate CEO's, insurance companies and Wall Street banks left wages stagnant for the last decade.

All of the economic growth of the Bush years went to the top two percent of the population. That left consumers without expanding incomes to buy new products, forcing the economy to rely on growing consumer debt and a housing bubble to finance its relatively anemic expansion.

The fruits of increased productivity must be widely shared in order to sustain long-term economic growth. A high wage economy is the foundation of a bright economic future - not a Bush era economy where income is concentrated in the hands of a few.

The evidence is crystal clear.

Economist Paul Krugman has noted, at the beginning of the Great Depression, income inequality, and inequality in the control of wealth, was very high. Then came the "the great compression" between 1929 and 1947. Real wages for workers in manufacturing rose 67% while real income for the richest 1% of Americans fell 17%. This period marked the birth of the American middle class. Two major forces drove these trends -- unionization of major manufacturing sectors, and the public policies of the New Deal that were sparked by the Great Depression.

The growing spending power of everyday Americans spurred the postwar boom from 1947 to 1973. Real wages rose 81% and the income of the richest 1% rose 38%. Growth was widely shared, but income inequality continued to drop.

Compare that to the Republican policies of the Bush years -- trade policies that allowed corporations to send manufacturing jobs abroad, and to lower wages at home; policies making it harder to organize unions; and tax cuts for the wealthy.

Of course, throughout the heyday of Reagan's "supply side revolution" and Bush's tax cuts, the Republicans and the right wing intellectual establishment have held fast to their foundational belief that these policies -- and especially tax cuts for upper income Americans -- would create private sector jobs.

Well, the great experiment in "trickle down economics" is over and the results are in. The New York Times reports that, "For the first time since the Depression, the American economy has added virtually no jobs in the private sector over a 10-year period. The total number of jobs has grown a bit, but that is only because of government hiring."

These Republican economic policies didn't just produce fewer jobs than advertised. They didn't produce any private sector jobs at all. The whole experiment in handing over money to the wealthiest people in America so they could use it to benefit the rest of us was a colossal -- empirically verifiable -- failure.

But our economy is not doomed to have more and more low-paying jobs, greater income inequality and economic stagnation. There's a great deal that can be done to prevent corporations from lowering the incomes of American workers in the future -- and to stop Hugo Boss from laying off 400 workers in Cleveland right now.

Lesson #2. America's trade policies have to change. The international rules of the economic road must and can be changed. Fundamentally, the rules of international trade must require that wages for employees are not solely subject to market forces. Human beings are not commodities like beans and corn. Most people agree that we need child labor laws, health and safety laws, laws protecting the right to organize, and the minimum wage. That's because without them, "the market" -- left to its own devices -- would force companies to drive down wages, and incentivize unsafe working conditions.

The same is true of the international market place. The international rules of the economic game that are reflected in trade agreements need to be changed to recognize that human beings are the point of the economic system -- not just an "economic input." Labor agreements must have labor and environmental protections -- not just protections for the rights of capital and "intellectual property."

Lesson #3. Our tax and regulatory policies need to be changed to reward true economic production and discourage the reckless speculation of the financial sector. It is the exploding financial sector that insists that a profitable company like Hugo Boss produce even more short-term profits -- even though it damages the American manufacturing base.

We've seen this movie over and over again. A few months ago Simmons -- a 133-year-old profitable bedding maker -- was forced to file for bankruptcy protection because it has been milked dry by a succession of buyers and Wall Street investment banks. The investment banks made millions through leveraged buyouts that made good financial sense for Wall Street, but left the manufacturing firm deeper and deeper in debt. The New York Times reports that "the financiers borrowed more and more money to pay ever-higher prices for the company, enabling each previous owner to cash out profitably."

This time, Hugo Boss is being milked by a private equity firm called Permira.

The changes in financial regulation proposed by the Obama administration would be a start in the right direction. But everything from tax policies to compensation practices need to change if we are going to re-establish the priority of productive work -- including manufacturing -- over the needs of the "Masters of the Universe" on Wall Street.

Lesson #4. We have to remember: it ain't over 'til it's over. It's up to all of us to use our collective political and economic power not only to make changes in our economic policies, but to stop the destruction of 400 productive jobs at Cleveland's Hugo Boss.

Workers at Republic Windows and Doors in Chicago sat down on the job in order to preserve their jobs -- and with the help of public officials like Congressman Luis Gutierrez and my wife, Congresswoman Jan Schakowsky -- they won.

Last year workers at another apparel company, Chicago-based Hartmarx, which makes President Obama's suits, faced their own fight. Thousands of jobs were put in jeopardy when the company's bankers sought to liquidate the company entirely. The workers fought the banks again -- and with the help of Illinois State Treasurer and current Senate candidate Alexi Giannoulias they won, too.

The workers in Cleveland realize they must engage in that same type of fight against the corporate greed of Hugo Boss, and they need all of our help.

We should demand that each of the glitterati that attends the Oscars publicly refuse to wear Hugo Boss clothes, so long as the company continues to put its own greed over the interests of American workers.

Each of us should foreswear Hugo Boss clothes until the workers at the Cleveland plant get back their jobs. Retailers should be asked to stop carrying Hugo Boss products.

Investors in the private pension fund Permira should sell their holdings.

All of us should stand shoulder to shoulder with the members of Workers United, an affiliate of Service Employees International Union, and help them demonstrate to America, once again, why a strong labor movement is our country's principal defense against a low-wage economy and economic stagnation.

Robert Creamer is a long-time political organizer and strategist, and author of the recent book: Stand Up Straight: How Progressives Can Win, available on Amazon.com.


 
 
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MrMaus   12:58 PM on 2/09/2010
To solve the Cleveland problem; go find a group of investors, buy the factory and produce clothes for a number of different small designers at whatever wage you want to pay. Get the Hollywood crowd to wear them.

To solve the US trade policy issues; explain to consumers that they need to pay more for their goods and buy “Made in the USA”. The problem is not with our government policy or in industry, it is with the buyers of goods. We have caused this problem but expecting to get everything cheaply. You wall off the country economically you will decrease the purchasing power by increasing costs if wages are held constant. To increase wages, the consumer needs to pay more (sorry, it is a zero sum game if you put up barriers to foreign goods).

Yes, it is up to all of us to use our collective economic power (drop the political, none of us trust them and they just work to take from one to give to the other) to stop the destruction of the US manufacturing base. We can invest in manufacturers with our savings, we can buy the goods they manufacture and we can give them free advertising with referrals and posts on blogs.
cke   10:27 AM on 2/09/2010
Fair labor practices should be enforced by federal law for everyone, not on a company by company basis by the local union bosses all taking their cut and killing yet another business.
ocoastperson   03:20 AM on 2/09/2010
It is clear from the story that Hugo Boss $12 / hr to $8 was a setup to close the plant.

Besides giving Hugo Boss's actions publicity, the US government must be pressured to act equitably with respect to foreign countries.

For example, we allow countries such as India with the H1-B program to bring hundreds of thousands of jobs to the US. These countries make it impossible for an American to get a job there.

Ditto, Mexico allows about 15,000 people a year to become Mexicn citizens from elsewhere. How many Mexicans become US citizens every year?

Similarly, we should have symmetric rules for property ownership. If we cannot purchase property or a company in a country such as some of the Eastern Europe, Asian, or other American continent countries, why should they be allowed to purchase from us?

Sounds pretty unfriendly -- and too simplistic -- but the US government must be pressured to protect the interests of US citizens and permanent residents.
Liberal2   06:50 PM on 2/09/2010
"....we allow countries such as India with the H1-B program to bring hundreds of thousands of jobs to the US...." Huh? No, we allow India to send hundreds of thousand excess workers to the US.
catbite   12:21 AM on 2/09/2010
I live right near this plant. The workers are frightened. Seriously, when $12 an hour becomes too costly a wage to pay the American worker, we are going to turn into a big slum.
Liberal2   06:51 PM on 2/09/2010
Good Morning, America...Is your representative a "D" or an "R"?
hey0there   11:51 PM on 2/08/2010
This dipping and dabbling in global "human capital" has ruined us.. we are doomed.
the giant sucking sound ended up being our kid's future siphoned away from us and given to India and China in the form of guest worker programs like H1B Visa for India and all US manufacturing for China
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SmileAndActNice   11:46 PM on 2/08/2010
If corporations are people with constitutional protections for their speech ...

then miking them till they go insolvent is murder and should be prosecuted as such.
athenap   09:29 PM on 2/08/2010
We're still a market. Change the way we consume as well as produce. Consume less. Be selective in your brand patronization. Buy local. Check out Naomi Klein's "No Logo" to see how brands like Nike have divorced themselves from manufacturing responsibility and product quality and reduced themselves to ephemera for sale.
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Deborah   09:50 PM on 2/08/2010
It is too late for this. We no longer manufacture goods in the US.
hey0there   12:02 AM on 2/09/2010
we no longer manufacture goods.
we no longer produce enough engineers.
we no longer produce enough software professionals.
we no longer produce enough doctors.
we no longer produceenough nurses.
we no longer produce enough teachers.

and all obama worried about his first year in office was the banking/insurance industry?

did he completely and utterly misread why the people voted for him?

or was his campaign just a calculated deception to capture the hearts of so many just for votes sake?

this president really could care less about america.. i firmly believe that. And i voted for this wretch.,
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shwicksdad   09:10 PM on 2/08/2010
Have any of you ever seen that documentary about Wal-Mart? It reveals what a seedy bunch of greed merchants the company is. There is a segment the shows one of their subsidary factories in China. Next to the factory there is what amounts to a multi-story boarding house, but looks more like a huge apartment building. There are something like 20 rooms on each floor, about 12ft x 12ft that four people live in. On each floor there are two bathrooms that 40 people must share. The workers work 16hrs a day 7 days a week. There is no place for them to cook meals or store food. They cook what they eat on little pots over what looks like a sterno heater. They wash their clothes in the bathrooms and hang them on string in the rooms and out the windows to dry. An inside hidden camera showed how nasty the managers are to them. Stopping for ten seconds no matter what the reason can cost them their jobs. The workers make less than the US equal of $20 a week.

Corporate America would love for the US worker to be just like that. Eight people living in a 2BR 1BA decrepit duplex, working 16hrs a day with no sick days and no vacation paying nothing in wages so they can maximize their profits and pay management outrageous salaries and bonuses.
Liberal2   06:53 PM on 2/09/2010
And Warren Buffett was the subject of a Forbes magazine article (April 28,2009) because he was investing in a Chinese battery company that did the same thing.
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Deborah   07:57 PM on 2/08/2010
The middle class of this country is done. The American worker is competing with countries paying their workers a few dollars a day. You cannot life a middle class life on 8.00 an hour. 12.00 an hour cannot
care for a family.

We are on the cusp of horrible change in this country. The slums of Mumbai may be coming to a city near you. There are millions of baby boomers retiring now with who have lost their retirements in this downturn.

What in God's name is going to happen to us all?
catbite   12:17 AM on 2/09/2010
Agreed. What will we do, where will we live, how will we get medical care.
cke   10:12 AM on 2/09/2010
The teapartiers already know that single payer healthcare is not the answer.
Liberal2   06:55 PM on 2/09/2010
The first thing that must be done is a Constitutional Amendment that mandates public financing of all elections and primaries, and makes any donation or offer to a candidate or officeholder illegal (along with felony criminal charges).
whitemale08   06:04 PM on 2/08/2010
Another very good article!

Ross Perot said during a debate between him, Bill Clinton and George Bush: "...if you sign NAFTA, you're going to hear a giant sucking sound of jobs leaving this country".

We didn't listen to him, instead we thought it was cute-n-funny when Bill Clington signed NAFTA into law.

Now we act suprised and whine every single day about "where's the jobs...where's hope-n-change?"

Folks, until we grow up and clean out every single Wall Street/City of London stooge who says: "I owned a business before...I know about the economy", it will not change.

We know what to do folks because the ones who established this country wrote exactly how to 'protect' our economy so that it remains prosperous for the vast majority of American citizens; not Wall Street.
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FFUNY   05:28 PM on 2/08/2010
Would like to hear a comment from Hugo Boss. We can all rage and rant but the fact is they own the business! Do they have a Union at the Plant? Betcha they do! So where is the Union? To help get more jobs in this Country we have to hear both sides! Labor can not call all the shots without hearing the other side. Now if we do not want a free market then we better get another Political Party started! We do not have the labor resources to compete in every industry. We must not fall behind in educating our young in the areas that we can compete. We can not manufacture shoes in this country and be competitive on a volume basis. Hugo Boss is a specialty company that can charge higher prices than most because they make a fine product. Should we now tell them where they have to make that product? That is not the American way and we can not win with that philosophy! Find another way!
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jcwtts1   08:48 PM on 2/08/2010
You are completely insane. Here is the reality. Hugo Boss is going to make the same product in China for 2 dollars a week instead of 12 dollars an hour. As long as we allow companies to import manufactured goods made at a fraction of the real costs in developed nations we will never have a middle class. The tax liability for moving Hugo Boss over seas should be billions of dollars. It should be so cost prohibitive that no company even thinks of outsourcing labor. But of course if we did that the economy of India and china would collapse. We'd set off a import export war and who knows how that would go. This is the failure of neoliberalism. Making money, not because you need it or because people demand you make money, but making it simply because you can. Why in the world would build anything in the US if we can get it cheaper overseas or in Mexico. Well, one of the reasons is that having a manufacturing base is a necessary component to being a first world nation, and having a manufacturing base is a matter of national security. But hey, why worry about that when you can make millions using slave labor in china.
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greyhound2   09:16 AM on 2/09/2010
Even President Obama spoke of eliminating tax breaks for US corporations shipping jobs overseas in the State of the Union address. He spoke of it. We all know it. Nothing has ever been done about it.

Germany has a much more sensible approach. If a German company moves, they don't get tax breaks, they pay big-time. It helps cover the social costs of a company dumping their employees on the welfare and unemployment rolls sholdered by taxpayers.

I'm still waiting for the "Change I can believe in". So far, I don't see any.
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Uncle Bill   03:19 PM on 2/08/2010
We've forgotten how Henry Ford increased the sales of his cars by raising the wages he paid his workers to the point where they could become consumers of his product. As beset by problems as our economy is, it's still the world's largest and access to our market is still a powerful economic tool. We should not retreat to hardshell economic protectionism, but we do need to insure that free access to our markets is limited to nations with intellectual property, environmental, health and safety, labor and wage laws standards equal to ours in both theory and practice. Nations that allow multinational corporations to shortcut these standards must face tariffs sufficient to remove the economic incentives that motivate them to pirate software, encroach upon patents, pollute the air and water, to abuse workers and to sell dangerous products hiding behind layers of subsidiaries and independent contractors.

We have to make long term investment in companies with workable business models and long term strategies to grow and adapt to changes in the economy more profitable than short term bets on the mood of the market . We need to end the inherent conflict of interest posed by allowing institutions on wall street to simultaneously trade on behalf of their clients, trade on their own behalf and to operate the market itself.
texastrixie   03:10 PM on 2/08/2010
If every celebrity who wore Hugo Boss would publicly come out against closing the Cleveland plant, it might get the word out about this firm. Celebrities can wear whatever they want. They ought to be thinking about how many movies people can afford to see on $8 an hour. Or if they can even afford cable to watch those endless football or basketball games. Or buy itunes. No one seems to understand that every company that can force workers to take minimum wage, the harder it gets for anyone - no matter their skill level - to get a living wage in this country.
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ChickenLips   03:34 PM on 2/08/2010
If only all the Hollywood and sports celebrities weren't so self-absorbed to give a damn about anybody else....
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guveqzero   01:46 PM on 2/08/2010
The sad fact was that in the 1930's, the US was a net exporter nation. Today being a large net importer, our situation is worse than the great depression. The problem is the scam of globalization. There are many lessons from histoy; but if we want to remain a viable country, we need to stop the stupidity. Let's at least do it for our children, since our generation is almost a lost cause.
mamalisa38   01:30 PM on 2/08/2010
So, gaywhitedude, I guess you think $12 an hour for the Hugo Boss workers is outrageous.

Have you heard that every single state and the federal government are facing massive budget shortfalls? The more money people earn the more they pay in income taxes and the more they can spend results in more sales taxes, all of which fills the coffers.

The more income and sales taxes the state and feds have the better off we all are. It also takes the burden off the social services that poor people must utilize in order to survive. But, by all means, let's cut off our nose to spite our face.

We must have a thriving middle class if we are to survive as a country.

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