Dinner in the Desert

With 49 million Americans, including 17 million children, classified as food insecure (meaning they lack regular access to food), it's hard to ignore this serious crisis facing our nation. What is missing from the discussion though, are the faces of this epidemic. They're young, old and of all colors and ethnicities, living in rural and urban areas. Many are found in food deserts: neighborhoods sprinkled with bodegas and liquor stores whose offerings are limited to junk foods and sodas. They don't have access to farmers markets, artisanal bakeries, supermarkets or other fresh food options dotting the streets of many middle and upper class communities. These people frequently rely on food stamps and don't have the resources to afford healthier foods. Ironically, two-thirds of our country is overweight or obese, and many of these people live in these food deserts and as a result are actually mal- or under-nourished. A recent University of Wisconsin study found that the cost of nutritious foods -- fruits and veggies -- continues to climb while the prices for junk food went up much less. We all pay the price having millions of malnourished and under-nourished Americans.

In light of these statistics, it was alarming to read Ed Bruske's article in Grist. "Americans hate feeding poor children at school," Bruske wrote. The former Washington Post reporter and now Washington, DC food activist describes the responses to a story about a program to feed 10,000 needy children dinners at school. A shocking 46 percent opposed the initiative, asking, "why should schools spend money -- some $5.7 million in this case -- to feed hungry children who should be eating at home?"

Since when does our society not have a responsibility to care for its most needy and vulnerable citizens? We all bear the consequences if these children don't eat. They have worse educational outcomes and have more long-term health problems. When should children ever be punished for the wrong-doings of adults? Children's lack of regular access to food is due to institutional and economic problems like living in food deserts, the high cost of nutritious foods and government farm subsidies which support the growing of things like corn and soy, the primary ingredients in junk foods. Sadly, these kids aren't getting much support or help from their fellow District residents or the politicians occupying Congress in their hometown.

Under the Child Nutrition Reauthorization Act, which is now languishing in the House, the Senate passed a version which only included a measly six cents more for school lunches, which are already shrink-wrapped concoctions of highly processed fat- and sugar-laden meals. This is certainly not enough to swap out tater tots or pizza for salad and fruits in school lunches.

As a result, efforts to make school lunches healthier seem to be relegated to the local movement with groups like the Farm to School Network and Will Allen's Growing Power and people such as Chef Ann Cooper, who is teaming up with Whole Foods to start the Great American Salad Bar Project. Under her program, Whole Foods shoppers can donate to local schools to support the construction of salad bars. It's a worthy feat for those hungry kids living within 50 miles of a Whole Foods market. But, as Tom Philpott of Grist points out, there are millions more schools well beyond the reach, or minds, of Whole Foods shoppers. And, if they have to deal with the same type of angry reaction like those of DC residents, then I'm not sure what type of support they will be able to find.

Even if these kids are visible to many Whole Foods shoppers (as they surely are in Washington, DC home to a plethora of the chain's stores in the city's wealthy and gentrifying neighborhoods), there's the infrastructural challenges that will continue to perpetuate this societal problem. We can't solve this systemic problem without widespread involvement and support to reduce government subsidies for junk food crops and greater support for the establishment of healthy options in food deserts. Most importantly, as Bruske wrote, "they see no problem with our junk food culture, and do not buy into the idea that children -- least of all poor black children -- should be eating better than anyone else." Ultimately, we must continue to address our institutional racism which continues to rear its head in ugly ways today, such as trying to deny children a healthy dinner.

Learn more about these efforts to improve school lunches and address food deserts:

• Sign the petition to remove soda and junk food from schools
• Farm to School Network
• Great American Salad Bar Project
• Alliance for Healthy and Responsible Grocery Stores (Los Angeles)
• Growing Power

 

Follow Sarah Newman on Twitter: www.twitter.com/SarahNow

Comments

[Jason Sywak]

06:44 PM on 10/29/2010

You ask, "Since when does our society not have a responsibility to care for its most needy and vulnerable citizens," but the more appropriate question is since when do we have that responsibility? Many of us with no children have made the choice not to be saddled with the responsibility and cost of having them. How is it that you conclude we should all now be coerced into that responsibility due to someone else's failure to live up to theirs? Many, if not most, of these parents are already receiving government assistance in the way of welfare or food stamps. Now these same dependents are dipping into $5.7 million worth of funding that should be going towards educating, not feeding. The DC school district is one of the worst in the nation and surely they need to keep all the funding they can for things like learning supplies, teacher salaries, etc. The fact that these students ultimately get to "double dip" in the handout line at the expense of all the other students is shameful. What's more shameful is the hateful spin writers like Bruske try to create by attaching the "racist" label to those of us who have had enough of being taxed to death to support Robin Hood policies. Now that kids get all three meals paid for by people who aren't their parents, the conversation turns to how the food isn't good enough, showing that this cycle of entitlement never really ends.

[Josephine Jody Ho]

02:24 PM on 10/29/2010

The food/hunger issue in America is unlike any other. Not only do people have irregular access to food but when they do, more often than not it's heavily processed junk food packed with preservatives and artificial flavorings. How is it that the number of hungry Americans (children and adults) is rising and so is obesity? The health of every society is representative of the health of the individuals who make up that society. By investing in the nurturing and well-being of the working people and children, we'll end up saving money that is being spent on FIXING health issues, poor school performances, low productivity, etc. In this day and age, people (especially children) should have easy access to healthy food choices.

[Liz Warden]

02:18 PM on 10/29/2010

I live in South Central Los Angeles in the inner-city, and work in local middle and high schools. I see the obesity issue every week as I walk through the halls and classrooms. Although I don't know where the obesity comes from, whether it's genetic, or a child's choice, it could be linked to poverty and hunger insecurity in the inner-city. I think one of the way ways to combat this issue of obesity and little access to nutritious foods in poverty-ridden areas is for community members to work together and form local grassroots groups. After reading about how local movements like the "Farm To School Effort,"etc. I thought of a local effort I've heard about: http://destinationchangeusa.org/, which is a group of high school students from Dorsey High School and Crenshaw High School in Los Angeles who are teaming up with Michelle Obama's MoveOn campaign staff to promote healthy eating in South Los Angeles and access to nutritious foods through the schools and a garden they are building at both the high schools. The students were actually invited to the White House and Michelle Obama's garden and recently visited. Smaller groups and movements can get government attention to draw attention to this issue, which is the first step at addressing the food insecurity issue in our nation.

[Alyssa Bricklin]

01:40 PM on 10/29/2010

Once again voters/citizens are only seeing the short-term cost, literally: "How much money has to be given now?" as opposed to the long-term effects of a problem. Yes, millions of dollars to help others is a debated in our capitalist system (although leaving children hungry seems to me not even an option...). However, without being able to quantify the exact price tag on the long-term consequences of having hungry Americans (such as health care that will be needed, potential prison fees as the post above mentions under nourishment can lead to poor education, which has been liked to criminal activity) it is hard to convince people why the immediate funds are needed. Not giving money toward education is bad enough, not giving money to keep children who haven't even had a chance to prove their positive potential in the world alive...well that is just a failure as a nation.