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Travelogue from DR Congo: Day 3

Posted: 05/09/09 03:20 PM ET

I'm sitting in the dark, due to a huge rainstorm as I write this, from the balcony of the International Medical Corps guesthouse in Bukavu, eastern DRC. We left Goma at the crack of dawn and sandwiched ourselves onto a boat that was full way beyond capacity. And we laughed the whole way because despite the immense darkness that exists here, this country is beautiful in so many ways. Bukavu feels far more like a city and is certainly more developed than Goma, but it is equal in beauty and in charm. We visited Panzi Hospital where IMC is training doctors and which has become world-renowned because of its incredible work with thousands of women who are in need of surgical repair for a condition called "fistula," a severe gynecologic rupture. It's a frighteningly common condition in eastern DRC because of lack of obstetric care, and the epidemic of rape.

Panzi Hospital's Founder and Director is Dr. Denis Mukwege, often referred to as "the savior of women " and was named by a prestigious Nigerian newspaper as African of the Year in 2008. But this man is beyond labels. He shared some of his experiences with us and as you can imagine, they are horrific. The youngest rape victim he has had to treat was a three year old girl.

I have to admit that after yesterday's displacement camps in Goma I was feeling pretty desolate. But visiting this hospital today felt as though there is a glimmering the light at the end of a long and dark tunnel. There are women everywhere who have suffered innumerable traumas and they are finally being given the treatment and care they deserve. This place is set up like a full on sisterhood. And the strength of women in numbers was powerful and inspiring.

Tomorrow we drive to Chambucha which is about a hundred kilometers north of Bukavu. The drive can take up to nine hours as the roads are treacherous and muddy from the rains. We have been briefed that this is an extremely volatile area. Lately there has been a marked increase in rebel activity. As I write I'm told there are ongoing actions occurring and the wounded are being brought to the hospital where we will be. Obviously, we have increased our security measures for the trip, but we all thought it was essential to see the work being done on the front lines of this conflict. IMC is providing the only health care in the area, and it would be futile to come all this way and not visit one of its most extreme and vulnerable areas. Communication is virtually impossible due to its remote location, so I will write when we return (weather permitting) on Friday.... (Don't spare the horses!)


Sienna Miller is working with International Medical Corps, TakePart.com, and Children Mending Hearts to raise awareness of the long-running conflict in eastern Democratic Republic of Congo and its devastating impact on women and children.

 
I'm sitting in the dark, due to a huge rainstorm as I write this, from the balcony of the International Medical Corps guesthouse in Bukavu, eastern DRC. We left Goma at the crack of dawn and sandwich...
I'm sitting in the dark, due to a huge rainstorm as I write this, from the balcony of the International Medical Corps guesthouse in Bukavu, eastern DRC. We left Goma at the crack of dawn and sandwich...
 
 
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10:07 AM on 05/11/2009
Interestings memoirs. Stay Safe. Stay on guard.
Get home soon.
02:48 AM on 05/11/2009
Sienna Miller, Kudos and safe travels. I'm a journalist and human rights activist and I work on the dual issues of HIV and sexual violence, including the use of mass rape in the DRC. I've been profiling the work of Panzi and groups like Heal Africa in Goma. I hope you'll push leaders you meet and use your blog to discuss the need to provide the DRC rape survivors and their families with concrete benefits such as those accorded to demobilized soldiers -- something that has been called for but hasn't really been taken up. Since women's bodies are the so -called 'soft' targets in these modern 21st century bush wars and sexual torture is the weapon, we need to target reconstruction efforts at rebuilding their lives and the DRC's human infrasrucure, not jus helping soldier's reintegrate and rebuild broken bridges and roads. Anyway, much more to say. Have a look at www.talktothefuture.org. And carry on. Anne-christine d'Adesky, author, 'Moving Mounains: The Race to Treat Global AIDS' (Verso, 2006).
02:28 AM on 05/11/2009
you are a brave and very much appreciated soul mrs Miller...on behalf of citizens the world over THANK YOU.
09:03 PM on 05/10/2009
Ms. Miller, your involvement in reportage about what is going on in the Congo is admirable. Before you are an actress, you are a citizen of the world, whose sensibilities have been devastated at what is going on in OUR world. Visits to any of these countries puts you at risk and I appreciate the effort on your part to report what you have seen.

I hope you will not be foolhardy wth your life. And I wish you safe travel.
12:37 PM on 05/10/2009
Sienna Miller is a fabulous actress but also down-to-earth and intelligent, the work she is doing is clear evidence of this. Thank you!
11:39 AM on 05/10/2009
Sienna - you are soooo Awesome! Pittsburgh LOVES you. SIIIIKE!!!
firelord5000
Lord of Fire, Duke of Carnage, King of Destruction
04:56 PM on 05/10/2009
haha
03:28 AM on 05/10/2009
PBS's "A Walk to Beautiful" is a must watch for anyone interested in the horrifying condition of Fistula. By the way NGOs and Aid organizations can only do so much work, local populace must be enabled for any long term results. Good job nonetheless!!!
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William Bradley
I have no microbe bio.
12:55 AM on 05/10/2009
These are very interesting pieces, about something I should know about, but shockingly do not.

Take care in your intrepidity.
12:40 AM on 05/10/2009
About 10 years ago I started seeing all these headlines like; "DR. Congo increases arms shipments" and "DR. Congo moves against rebels" etc. For about 6 months I was walking around asking myself "Who is this guy Dr. Congo? What an enigmatic name!" Somebody in a bar finally pointed out it was the Democratic Republic of Congo. "ooh...." I replied. Seriously - I was that dumb I thought it some evil arch-villain's name...
11:51 PM on 05/09/2009
What a wonderful post! Surely it's Africa's time to command the world's attention. Thank you, Ms. Miller, for focusing on one of the worst tragedies in the world and in one of the most dangerous parts of the world!
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09:10 PM on 05/09/2009
Ms. Miller,

Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your work in the Congo and the attention you are giving to the plight of the women there. I will post this to my facebook in an effort to get the word out. It's hard to get anyone to pay attention to anything anymore. Hopefully your voice will add much needed attention to the cause. Best of luck and admiration.

Regards,

CC
03:28 PM on 05/09/2009
What do you know. I was just reading about the DR Congo two days ago. I read that 1,000 people are dieing daily, from disease, starvation, and ongoing internal conflicts/war. I had no idea, and it's difficult to imagine. I hope you are filming your trip and can share it with the rest of the world, when you return. Peace on your journey!
luckybear
Coffee Drinker
03:10 PM on 05/09/2009
Well I'm glad some organization is trying to help. Considering DR Congo has been in civil war for years Sienna Miller is quite brave. Hopefully local organizations can keep things together for the government to respond. The area is full of natural resources so war is almost inevitably. It's very sad. Thanks Mobutu Sese Seko.

Too bad an international organization based in New York could provide an adequate military to enforce peace. Oh wait that would be policing the world (thats bad I'm told). DR Congo is broke commodity prices have collapsed. Demand for cobalt and diamonds are very weak thanks to the worldwide slowdown. The military risks revolt if they are not paid. It's quite a mess. Only China is still investing but without accountability the government risks further debt and greater dependence on mineral resources.
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VicksieDo
07:01 PM on 05/09/2009
Good luck Sienna!!