More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Sue Fishkoff

GET UPDATES FROM Sue Fishkoff
 

The New Jewish Food Movement: Jews Who Meet What They Eat

Posted: 10/20/10 09:09 PM ET

The following is an excerpt from Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority.

On a cold, foggy morning in September 2007, two dozen young Jews gathered in a Connecticut field to witness nine goats be shechted, or slaughtered according to Jewish law.

These young people, most in their early 20s, are spending three months studying the connections between Jewish values and sustainable agriculture as part of the Adamah program, an environmental leadership-training course at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center. Adamah is one of a handful of Jewish farming projects that have sprung up this past decade, training a cadre of young Jews to grow and harvest their own food.

At nine a truck pulls up, and 31-year-old Aitan Mizrahi, who raises goats for meat and dairy at the center, gently coaxes nine young male animals from the back of the vehicle into a waiting pen. Goats, like cattle, have gender-driven destinies: The females are kept for milking, while the males, except for those lucky few chosen as breeders, are slaughtered for meat.

Four of these goats have been purchased by food activists Naf Hanau and Ian Hertzmark, and two of them by Andy Kastner, a rabbinical student at Yeshivat Chovevei Torah. The three drove up from New York to prepare the kosher forequarters, about twenty pounds per animal. They will give the hindquarters, traditionally not sold as kosher because of forbidden fats and sinews, to non-Jewish friends. The other three goats will go to the Adamah fellows, who will cook them as an educational exercise. Never mind that few of these students actually eat meat -- they're committed to the do-it-yourself ethic the project represents.

"I've been a vegetarian for seven years, but I'm not against people eating meat," says Ashley Greenspoon, 24, of Toronto, as she casts nervous, sidelong glances at the goats happily munching on grass in their holding pen. "It's a part of our reality, and I think it's very important for us to face it. So long as there is going to be meat eating in the world, we need to take responsibility and do it in a respectful way that honors life."

The shochet, 32-year-old Rabbi Shalom Kantor, is standing off to the side, removing his prayer shawl and phylacteries. He has finished his morning devotions and is quietly sharpening his halaf, the knife used for Jewish slaughter. Kantor works as the Hillel rabbi at Binghamton University in upstate New York, and is the country's only Conservative shochet. Although he trained under an Orthodox rabbi in Israel, his Conservative ordination means the animals he slaughters cannot be certified as kosher by any supervising agencies. He does this work freelance, he says, because he wants to help Jews take responsibility for the meat they eat.

"There's a piece of me that thinks a Jew who can't participate at least to some degree in the processing of an animal shouldn't necessarily eat that animal," says Kantor, who grew up hunting and fishing in Sun Valley, Idaho. Buying meat already cut up and neatly wrapped in cellophane can lead people to forget that meat was once an animal whose treatment, in life and death, is carefully outlined by Jewish law. "Maybe God and our tradition call upon us to be more involved in our food. When you have to transform an animal from fur and feathers to a piece of meat on your plate, you tend to have much greater respect for what you're eating."

A rough wooden bench has been placed about 30 feet in front of the waiting group. One student sprinkles hay and straw under the bench to soak up the blood as the animals are killed. When every thing is ready, Mizrahi gathers the students in a circle. They stand quietly, holding hands, while he talks about how the goats were birthed, nursed by their mothers and then raised by him. "These animals are giving us their breath and their meat," he reminds the group. "This is a link in the chain between what our ancestors have done, what we do now and what our children will do after us."

The circle breaks apart, and Mizrahi and Hanau lead the first black-and-white goat to the bench and flip it on its back. Mizrahi leans for ward, pressing into the goat's flank, talking quietly into its ear to keep it calm while Hanau bends its head backward over the end of the bench, stretching the neck gently but firmly. A third young man holds its back legs. Kantor steps in quickly, says the bracha in Hebrew -- Blessed are you, O God, Lord of the Universe, Who has commanded us regarding the mitzvah of ritual slaughter -- and makes a quick back-and-forth cut across the goat's neck. Bright red blood spurts out, drenching Hertzmark's shirt and pants. The animal jerks for about 10 seconds, and several of the Adamah fellows gasp and hug their neighbors. A few cry softly.

When the animal stops struggling, Hanau and Hertzmark pick it up and lay it down gently in the hay beside the bench. When it is completely still, they carry it to a nearby lean-to, tie ropes around its hind legs, and hang it from hooks they've driven into the wooden beams along the roof. Kantor trades in his halaf for a kitchen knife to demonstrate evisceration. He makes a small horizontal cut above the goat's urethra, then a vertical slice down the middle of the belly all the way to its throat. He cuts very carefully to avoid puncturing any internal organs. When the vertical slice is completed, he reaches inside the carcass and pulls out the first kidney, encased in a milky white membrane. He pulls the membrane off with a small knife, cuts away the chelev, or forbidden fat, and passes the kidney to one of the students, who puts it in a plastic bucket labeled "kosher." Another bucket will hold the non-kosher innards: the four-chambered stomach, the intestines, the spleen. Kantor pulls out the lungs and puts his mouth to the windpipe leading to each one, blowing softly to inflate them and make sure there are no holes. His hands are scarred with dozens of tiny cuts from constantly testing his knife for sharpness.

Kantor became more observant in college, abandoning his original plan of going into game conservation for a career in the rabbinate. That's when he learned that the hunting he'd done as a boy was against Jewish law, as animals can be eaten only if they are slaughtered by a shochet. "That was difficult for me to take in," he says. "Hunting was how I related to my dad and my brothers; it's what we did together as a family." When he started to keep kosher, he decided to learn to shecht, so he could preserve the connection to his meat that he knew from hunting. Finding a teacher was a problem -- no Orthodox shochet would train a Conservative rabbinical student. The only teacher he could find was an elderly Yemenite shochet in Israel, whom he studied with for a year while he was in Jerusalem as part of his rabbinical training. "He took me to all kinds of wild and crazy places, parking lots, the top of mountains," Kantor recalls.

In spring 2005, Kantor received his certification as a shochet. Reform and Conservative rabbinical students contact him periodically to ask for mentoring, but so far, none has followed through. It's a frustrating business, as no one in the Orthodox community will eat his meat. "I've come to accept it," he says. "That's the reality."

 
 
 
The following is an excerpt from Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority. On a cold, foggy morning in September 2007, two dozen young Jews gathered in a Conn...
The following is an excerpt from Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority. On a cold, foggy morning in September 2007, two dozen young Jews gathered in a Conn...
 
 
  • Comments
  • 109
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Recency  | 
Popularity
Page: 1 2  Next ›  Last »  (2 total)
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
01:09 PM on 10/26/2010
If you are anti things that are anti does that make you pro?
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
12:55 PM on 10/26/2010
Gosh they are chock full of great ideas. maybe they could take texas.
08:27 PM on 10/25/2010
It was meeting my food that moved me to become a vegetarian. Having slaughtered my own chickens (two, at least), I found it difficult to choke them down remembering their their happy pecking around my yard. I raised goats, too, intending to slaughter an eat the males...but how could I kill something that ran to me and followed me around like a dog. I realized that a) I didn't need to eat meat to thrive, and b) there is no excuse for kill--directly or indirectly--any creature that has an interest in living, not just to satisfy my taste for meat.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ron Broxted
04:08 PM on 10/25/2010
Ladies and gentlemen I think we have progressed from the Bronze Age in the Near East. Anyone wish to stone me for wearing clothes of 2 different fabrics?
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
11:02 PM on 10/23/2010
Thank you ( Love Sun Valley ) this is an article that puts us closer to the harm we inflict with our dollars. That money keeps us comfortably away from the violence our carnivorous appetite supports. If you have been to a slaughter house , well , ugh ,you may shy away from that beef. I mean we eat
"downer cows" that have suffered for hours before dying to be your hamburger . This is beautiful and grateful , more of us should respect and bless our food , then maybe we could respect our neighbor ?
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Andrew FingerlickingGree
08:29 PM on 10/23/2010
Hi, I'm Maliki and in another hour you'll be lunch.
05:18 PM on 10/22/2010
Pleased to meet you.
Now I eat you.
04:56 PM on 10/22/2010
The article failed to explain one very important thing. The knife that is used to cut the animal's throat has to be the thinnest knife possible and the cut has to be quick in order to minimize the animal's suffering. That's the moral of Kosher slaughter. The animal's suffering has to be minimized.
09:18 PM on 10/22/2010
Well, that's good to know. Nothing like a pleasant ritual slaughter to please a tribal god (better than an unpleasant ritual slaughter to please the boss).
09:00 AM on 10/23/2010
The main objective here is to eat delicious animal meat without making the animal suffer too much.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ernie Lijoi
09:41 AM on 10/22/2010
"It's a part of our reality, and I think it's very important for us to face it. So long as there is going to be meat eating in the world, we need to take responsibility and do it in a respectful way that honors life.

This I agree with.

however, chanting a bunch of religious voodoo nonsense before cutting its throat and watching it bleed do death is insane and you should be ashamed of yourself.
05:17 PM on 10/22/2010
Yes, but imagine how honored the goat must feel knowing that all this ceremony is just for him.
photo
GraphicMatt
Somebody make me a sandwich!
05:29 PM on 10/23/2010
Voodoo is totally different than Hebrew.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
khanti
Cultivator
03:48 AM on 10/22/2010
I don't see the moral or purpose of this article. I don't even get the punch line. The only people who show a genuine respect for nature is the Bushmen of the Kalahari desert where they apologize for the animal that they killed explaining to the carcass that they killed for food. They also pay respect to the dead animal.
If you kill an animal or watch it being killed for your consumption, you are actually tuning off your compassion side.
Go ahead if you want to eat meat but why all the fuss?
04:56 PM on 10/22/2010
The article failed to explain one very important thing. The knife that is used to cut the animal's throat has to be the thinnest knife possible and the cut has to be quick in order to minimize the animal's suffering. That's the moral of Kosher slaughter. The animal's suffering has to be minimized.
09:36 PM on 10/21/2010
Interesting article.

It's a good thing that people who eat meat decide to attend an animal's killing. It may be natural for humans to eat meat, but it's definitely not natural to be disconnected from the reality of the slaughter and to just buy meat already cut and ready to cook. It makes people forget that a living creature was killed for that.

HOWEVER, the kosher way of killing inflicts a lot of pain to the animal, as its blood slowly leaves its body. I think this practise should be forbidden. Until proof of the contrary, it's just a superstition to think God wants animals to be killed like that. As there are less painful ways to kill animals, this ritual shouldn't be used.
But to say a prayer when the animal is killed, to thank it/God/the Nature for the food it will provide, I think it's ok, and even recommandable.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
PhatP
02:31 AM on 10/22/2010
Say a prayer? Really? Does prayer work ever?
So then with this logic would it be OK for a human rapist to say a prayer before he commits his violence against another human?
Religion poisons the mind and allows people to do absurd things.

Would praying really make the below a better experience for the some-one here?
I this the best we humans can do?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV9_-C_C3Fw
photo
GraphicMatt
Somebody make me a sandwich!
05:32 PM on 10/23/2010
Does prayer ever work? To those who pray perhaps it does. Religion isn't the only thing that poisons the mind. Intollerance to the beliefs of others is a far worse poison in my humble opinion than religion.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
10:57 PM on 10/23/2010
Does what they do affect your day ?? Maybe they pray to clam down before flipping the guy off in front of them , say that guy was you , under their calm breath they say "Go with god !"
Think that is pretty beautiful and simply "worked" for you in ways you'll never really know.
thebigbike
ran away to be a cowboy
08:59 PM on 10/21/2010
For several years I raised and killed my own meat animals for over 80% of the meat in my diet. Since I had gotten some familiarity with each animal it seemed only "righteous" to ensure that I inflicted an absolute minimum of pain on them, and for me to recognize what was occurring, that one creature's life was taken for mine. I made a similar acknowledgment when hunting. It made me a better person in many ways and far more deeply connected with the web of life that I had been before, and I than I would have been as a vegetarian. Fine if you wish to be a vegan, but frankly the moral condescension of the vegans and most of the near vegetarians I've met doesn't encourage me to that position. It doesn't take a lot of consciousness to sacrifice a carrot or a head of lettuce though there was some research a while back that indicated plants do have responses to being uprooted or having leaves pulled off that might be analogous to pain.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
01:13 PM on 10/26/2010
the secret life of plants covers that topic. I heard it was fiction, but a stellar read none the less.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
thinkingwomanmillstone
My life is microbiodegradable.
04:54 PM on 10/21/2010
I find the tone of this pretty amazing since it points out how capricious religion is. The goats end up dead...I'm sure the prayers really made a difference to them.. The shochet wouldn't be trained by the orthodox shochets and can't be considered kosher because he's the "wrong" kind of jew. His hunting isn't allowed, although it made him close to his father, because the animal isn't killed in the "right' way. What an inefficient exclusionary way to live when people can't think for themselves and decide for themselves and follow made up rules that tells others they aren't good enough , dressed right or just not right enough.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Mortifyd
05:46 PM on 10/21/2010
What a simplistic view of a complex culture. Yes, the goats end up dead. The prayers are more for the people to express their gratitude and to acknowledge we have a tradition that *requires* humane slaughter if you eat meat. Hunting is not humane according to Jewish law and it's social aspects do not trump halacha for someone who is religious at whatever level. His level of observance doesn't meet the frum community standards, but there are still conservative, reform, humanist and reconstructionist Jews who are outside the orthodox framework as far as kashrus goes and they can choose to use it. I've found in my experience when levels of observance clash but personalities don't the one holding with the higher restrictions often invites you over to avoid the problem. I'll happily eat at a rabbi's house who won't eat at mine and not feel offended in the slightest. But then it's my culture and I understand it.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
thinkingwomanmillstone
My life is microbiodegradable.
07:18 PM on 10/21/2010
You justify your religious rules with more religious rules. all religions are arbitrary, primitive, exclusionary versus inclusionary and made up.
photo
kadene
wordsmith
08:13 PM on 10/21/2010
Is death by stoning any more "humane" than hunting?
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
01:08 PM on 10/26/2010
yeah this is where I come to pick a fight too ;)
photo
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
Weirdwriter
02:40 PM on 10/21/2010
For questions about kosher dietary laws, including the role of vegetarianism:
http://www.jewfaq.org/kashrut.htm
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
BlackYowe
I am a classical- liberal woman and a Jeweler.
01:43 PM on 10/21/2010
Those are African Pygmy goats that are seldom eaten in the photo . They are popular pets in the USA and pretty expensive.