The international crowds in search of sand, sea and that golden Provencal sun are arriving in hordes now and the town is filling up.

The neighborhood has been in protracted decline: Large family homes have been turned into cheap hotels and apartments. Pizza and kebab shops abound.

Beyond the shingled roofs, I saw the stacked ochre buildings of the historic district in the distance and the green hillside beyond.

The pebbly beach is scattered with the constant sunbathers and students, but the glassy indigo water seems to be untouched for the moment.

With beautiful natural surroundings, pleasant weather, delicious cuisine and plenty of lesser-known towns, it's easy to see why the South of France is appealing

As I made my way back up onto the main road, I saw huge Christmas trees strung with lights set up in the big square and a Christmas market full of people buying candied apples and hot cider.