Wine should taste like where it came from, and shouldn't be manipulated into big alcoholic bruisers crammed with "jammy" fruit. Wine expert Gerry Dawes is a fan of old-fashioned wines made the old fashioned way: "Great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the winery."
More than 20 years ago, I had one of those taste epiphanies, the Proustian kind, where, embedded in your brain is a memory, an aroma, a texture and a story.