How does an East End bloke who grew up on stewed eels and mash morph into a self-taught epicure who delights in serving up dishes like caramelized red onion and roasted vegetable tarte tatin? For starters, he gives up eating eel. Then he gives up eating meat.
As children we caught them by accident while fishing and treated them brutally. But over years I have come to love the eel, and I think it has to do with their ability to keep their life history veiled from humans.