Maybe cooking, like athletics, can be divided into two camps: the rationalists and the romantics. Ivan Drago is Nathan Mhyrold; Rocky is Julia Child.
Alinea and Grant Achatz's cooking was even sometimes dubbed soulless. Like me, though, many of these critics had never eaten the food or spoken with the chef. I think maybe, all they needed to do was eat at Alinea once to discover the truth.